First things first, good physical inspection...vacuum leaks!
The choke pulloff is supposed to just BARELY crack the choke.
What you want, engine cold after sitting over night, is to hit the pedal once, and the choke to snap shut COMPLETELY. No gap between the choke blade and the carb casting. You do not want there to be excessive tension when it's shut, just enough so that the choke closes fully, every time. You need to be careful here...spring tension (from the choke) only gets you so far...the rod that is connected to the choke plate is what determines how far the choke plate is pushed based on the choke coil. Too short, choke acts very quickly, and may not open far enough. Adjusting the rod should be the last step of setting the choke open/close points.
Once you've got that set, you'll want to set the choke pulloff so that it barely cracks the throttle blade when it sees vacuum.
Choke pulloff ONLY serves to make sure the engine gets enough air to run, after an initially very rich mix. (closed choke)
Fast idle is handled with a screw on the passenger side of the carb. I wouldn't mess with it until I was sure the choke coil tension/rod length is right on the carb. The fast idle is controlled via the choke coil, if it's opening too fast, too little choke coil tension is a likely cause.
Chokes are pretty hard to get right, typically you need to run the engine through a few cycles to get the high idle RPM's right, the opening rate right, etc.