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Qjet rebuild: is the metering rod supposed to be bent?

dremu

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The bend is so close to 90* that it looks like it was intentional ... but, umm, why only one side?

-- A

bentmeteringrod.JPG
 
You can try to bend it back, But most likely it will stick and not run right.
I would replace it.
 
I have heard of rolling them on glass to get them as close to straight as possible. It might break when you try it, but if you are successful in getting it really close, it will probaby run OK.

Chances are that the carb was mis-assembled and the rod was bent as the bolts were tightened down. I assume the engine was blowing black smoke?
 
Blue85 said:
I have heard of rolling them on glass to get them as close to straight as possible. It might break when you try it, but if you are successful in getting it really close, it will probaby run OK.

Chances are that the carb was mis-assembled and the rod was bent as the bolts were tightened down. I assume the engine was blowing black smoke?

Well, the powertrain as a whole was suspect ... I don't remember it blowing excessive smoke, no, but it smelled more like gas than my other trucks, which prolly means it was running rich? Anyway, with the engine rebuild comes the carb replacement/rebuild.

-- A
 
IIRC, the jets are fairly large orifices up top, if you can straighten on glass (good idea!) or get as close as possible, I'd probably then mock the power piston up, and push it down into the jets to see if it will travel easily. If it will, I don't know as I'd worry about it.
 
38377k5 said:
Do not try and straighten it, its not worth it. Get a new set, Edelbrock sells them fairly inexpensively.

Summit sells them for like ten bucks, plus the twelve to ship, so I presume my local speed shop would be about the same.

I ended up robbing the rods and jets from the other Q-jet on the bench, for reasons too complicated to enumerate here.

And JMS, you hit it on the head -- the truck always liked turning one way more than the other :haha:

-- A
 
And remember that the rods are not the same. The top diameter is what gets changed for tuning purposes. Thats the diameter above the taper. They're supposed to have a number stamped in the side but I can't read about half of them so I use a micrometer to size them.
George
 
smalltruckbigcid said:
And remember that the rods are not the same. The top diameter is what gets changed for tuning purposes. Thats the diameter above the taper. They're supposed to have a number stamped in the side but I can't read about half of them so I use a micrometer to size them.
George

Yep, yep. These were 34B's, with CH secondaries, and were replaced with 36B's and DR's.

36B seems a bit small for my taste, but wimmin and carbs are different =))

-- A
 
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