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quadrajet

77k5boss

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welp my old quadrajet finally gave up i believe. cranked right up to move it to the back yard. i aired the tires down in front so i could get to the air breather to fix a vacume leak that goes to my heater controls. tried to crank it back but no dice. smelled like it flooded so i let it sit for an hour. tried again but no success. turns over but just wont start. now the battery is almost dead. haha. when it rains it pours.
 
Charge the battery, check you didn't knock the wire off the distributor.
Air cleaner off tap on the side of the carb a few times, crank it over and see if it floods and don't touch the gas. If floods float is stuck, if no flood it should start with a pump or 2 of the pedal. On a flooded engine hold the pedal to the floor and crank it should start eventually. If the float is actually stuck it probably won't start and gas should be spilling over the carb.
Carefully you don't start a fire In a flooding situation.
 
thanks. that seemed to do the trick! so now that i can crank and drive it. should i go ahead and go buy a new carburetor. not comfortable with rebuilding this one.
 
Just my opinion, but if you're going to run one, you should get comfortable with it...

If yours is too warn out to rebuild, used ones are usually plentiful on CL. Great carb for our trucks. Second only to fuel injection.
 
ive seen that the quadrajet is the best for off road. but other than hills on the highway and where i hunt im not faced with any.
 
That leaves you with holley or edelbrock. I think edelbrocks are just fine for street use. Also simple to work on. Your choice, man. New is always nice, but there will always come a time when you have to tinker with it. Just comes with running a carb...
 
thanks for yalls help. i think its gonna be an edelbrock.. i have a 305 so would i need the 1405 or 1406?
 
if ya wanna new carb just buy a nice JET quad from Summit...
 
When I put in a new motor and got crazy replacing things I replaced the original Q-jet with a JET Q-jet from Summit. Been very happy with it.
 
1405 and 1406 is the same size, the difference is electric and manual choke.

1st. What transmission do you have? Specifically do you have a 700r4. I'm assuming by your username it's a 77 so no.

2nd. Nothing will beat that QJet. Your starting, idling, off idle, power, performance, fuel economy. Nothing but fuel injection. If you have the funds to go out and buy a new Ebrock or Holly or what have you, I'd seriously take a second look at sending your Qjet out to be rebuilt. Then all you have to do is bolt it back on, hook up your lines. Or, if you're lucky, you can still find old farts to rebuild them for you. Just don't take it in to some "mechanic" who says 'ya i can rebuild that'.

And like said above, you'll still have to fiddle and adjust a brand new ebrock or holley, there's just less things to adjust.
 
750 cfm is the smallest I see. Is that not to big for a 305?

It isn't, Q-jets are built differently than most carbs. Small primaries and big secondaries, they even work well on L6 engines.

Any carburetor you put on other than a Q-jet is a downgrade :whistle:
 
It isn't, Q-jets are built differently than most carbs. Small primaries and big secondaries, they even work well on L6 engines.

Any carburetor you put on other than a Q-jet is a downgrade :whistle:

But since Qjets are spreadbores with vacuum secondaries, it only uses the ammount of fuel it needs. That's why you can use the same exact Qjet (usually 750cfm) carb on a 305, 350, 400, 454, even Olds 307, 350, 408, 455, buicks, cadillacs, etc.. Just gotta rejet. Don't think that works with off the shelf carbs like a 1405-6. I think 600 is a better size for a 305 (which 1405-6 are 600cfm)
 
Well the qjet that's on it now has 1 plug on the passenger side and it's not hooked up. Guess it went to the computer that under the dash next to the glovebox. So I'm pretty sure this one is not gonna operate as it should. Lol. I plugged it in and nothing happened. So I guess the brain is messed up. drive train is 305/th350/208
 
Btw. I no longer have a 77. I got an 85 now that I have been working on slowly for about 5 years
 
Could be a double pumper or dual capacity pump carb, whatever it's called, those were not not computer controlled (the carb that is). My 85 had that, but had the computer box too, for the knock sensor and distributor and whatever else.
 
Could be a double pumper or dual capacity pump carb, whatever it's called, those were not not computer controlled (the carb that is). My 85 had that, but had the computer box too, for the knock sensor and distributor and whatever else.


Mines an 85 too. Most likely dual capacity pump. Check the wiring. One wire will go back towards the cab, the other should be hooked to a temperature switch in the manifold. How it works is that the pump control has two settings-a rich setting for warm-up, and a leaner setting when the engine gets to temp. When the coolant temperature reaches 170 degrees, the circuit grounds and the fuel control goes to the warm setting. There is no computer control. Some people confuse this with the computer controlled carb (CCC) which additionally had a TPS sensor, but this setup was found mostly on cars, and the plug receptacle will be blue instead of gray. Now many trucks of this vintage had a distributor with timing control, which is likely what that unit by the glovebox is for.

The truck will run without the plug being hooked up, but you may notice some issues starting when warm, and your fuel economy will be poor, as the truck will be running too rich.
 
That's most likely the 800CFM variant. From my experience the truck 305's got 800CFM variants. Oddly enough, so did the Olds 307 in cars, while the 305 in the Monte SS got 750's.

These things are not hard to rebuild as long as you aren't a gorilla. The only thing you'd probably want to farm out is bushing the primary throttle shaft. Realistically most only need the throttle side of the primary shaft bushed, as all the load is on that single point. With all cables disconnected from the throttle shaft, wiggle it around. If you get any movement up/down/front/back it should be bushed.

For ~$25 you can get a rebuild kit.
 

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