35 spline stub shaft to locking hub interferance
I found my old D60 inner wheel bearing races and my old carrier bearing races. Here are the facts that I have learned. I'll pass them along and hope it helps someones else avoid the pitfall.
1. I have Warn Premium locking hubs, P/N 62672. This is the correct part no. for Dana 70 35 spline stubs on a Dana 60 in a GM.
2. Both the original 30 spline stubs and the 35 spline stubs stick out beyond the spindle.The 30 spline stubs smaller diameter fits inside the tube shapped inner part of the locking hub dial.The 35 spline stubs larger diameter hits the tube shapped inner part of the locking hub dial.
3. The inner wheel bearing race and the dif carrier bearing race have the same O.D. of 3.813 inches.The wheel bearing race is .623 thick (inner edge to outer face). Part no. is Timken 382A.The carrier bearing race is .798 thick. Part no. is Timken 382S or Federal Mogul 382S.
4. The carrier bearing race is .175 inches thicker than the wheel bearing race. Installing the carrier bearing race in the wheel hub will move the wheel hub outward about .175 inches. This extra space along with grinding a chamfer on the ends of the stubs should provide sufficient clearance for the tube shapped inner part of the locking hub dial.
5. Will the wheel grease seal still fit into the hub with the thicker races installed?
Please reply if you have successfully done this.
5. Keep the snap ring groove on the end of the stub shaft. I made a spacer/sleeve to go between the snap ring and the inner splined part of the locking hub. This holds the V-seal up against the back face of the spindle. These hubs have nothing included to locate the snap ring to the hub components. Nothing to hold the V-seal against the back of the spindle. Warn blew this one! I'm "testing" the spacer sleeve now. I'll provide more info after adequate testing. If you have 35 spline stubs and Warn hubs, grab your D60 axle shaft at the u-joint. Move it toward the dif and then toward the wheel. If it moves freely until the axle shaft yoke hits the end of the axle tube, then you have nothing holding the V-seal against the back of the spindle. If you have Warn hubs & 35 stubs and say you have no problems, you probably have a gap between the V-seal and the back spindle and don't even know it.
Method 2 I would like to discuss is to cut the stub shorter and cut an new snap ring groove at the location where the inner splinned locking hub part would keep the snap ring from moving inward, therefore keeping the V-seal in a proper position. Seems like that would work fine if the spacers sleeves don't work out. Have you guys been cutting and regrooving stubs to run Warn premium hubs?
This web site is great and you guys that are sharing info are the best!
