question on winch ground

[RootBreaker]

So that winch is mounted between the frame rails?
Looks good.. so how is it going to go out the front?
Eventually im going to get the MM12000 hydraulic and mount it between my frame rails and put a roller farelead into my tube bumper... for that clean, streamline, hidden look... I like what you did there.... /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

Now that I look at it.. THAT IS WHAT I WANT TO DO!!!!

was the winch hard to mount in there?
I am thinking of putting a piece of metal betwen the frame rails like this..... -|__|- and put my winch in there....

 

[CyberSniper]

You want the least number of connections possible.

In my multimount setup I have a 2/0 cable going from the battery ground to the frame. Off the same bolt that holds the battery ground to the frame is a wire going to the front connector for the winch. At the rear of the frame I have another wire coming off going to the rear connector for the winch.


Important things to consider when using high-current DC stuff:<ul type="square"> Use wire continuously rated at whatever your winch requires at full pull. For most winches this is 1/0 welding cable (welding cable has more strands than regular THNN).
Keep the wires as short as possible.
Keep from bending the wires at a diameter smaller than 12 times the conductor diameter.
Do not kink the wire.
Limit the number of connections.
Use soft copper terminals (such as a piece of copper tubing) with enough surface area to hold the current. Ideally, you'd want the metal around the bolt hole the same width as the diameter of the cable. However, this is not always possible. It does need to be at least half the diameter of the cable.
Both crimp and solder the cable. In the event the cable or terminal gets hot enough to melt the solder (as low as 200° or so depending on the solder) you want the physical connection to keep the cable from going AWOL.
Use liberal amounts of antioxidant wherever two dissimilar materials meet.
Put tape or shrinktube around the insulator and connector so that nothing can get into the wire.
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Remember, the less heat and voltage loss in the cabling the happier the winch will be. 2 gauge wire is for starter motors and ATV winches... not truck winches.

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

I bet my winch would still suck ass even with 4/0 wire. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

 

[CyberSniper]

[ QUOTE ]
I bet my winch would still suck ass even with 4/0 wire. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

It's the operator, not the machine.

I couldn't help myself... /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif


Rumor is that my "little" truck is "too big" to fit through some "tight stuff" and "too heavy" to make it through some mud along some power lines that the club is going on this weekend. I was thinking about running the winch on the front of the truck all day but I don't like having it up there because it makes it harder to turn (150lbs extra girth hanging out way in front of the axle). That way when I never get stuck and someone says "Never had to use the winch today, huh?" I can say "Yeah, some hardasses told me my truck was too girly to make it so I put it on the front of my truck before I left home". Not to mention having the multimount on the front of the truck looks a little

. These are the same people that won't follow me down an ATV trail with their 50" WMS-WMS Heep.

 

[BobK]

Let's clarify one thing at least.
It's 2g fine strand welding cable.Same gauge stuff that Warn used,except they used a thicker strand cable.
Here they are side by side.The red cable is what Warn used.

This what I replaced it with.

Next yes it is mounted between the frame rails.
It's mounted to a large "C" channel,then bolted to two tabs that had been welded to the frame.

Here are the two tabs welded to the frame.

I have the roller failead attached to by bumper and the cable passes through the bumper.