What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Questions for buying used Engine

Well it has 450 miles from 5 years ago, so hopefully it’s still in good shape. Yeah called Jegs to see what info they needed to come up with an order or part # and basically name and phone number, but their system only goes back 5 years, so might be too late. He’s gonna see if he can find anything. I’d also like to know the specs of the cam to make sure the power range of the motor is good. 350 HP will be a pretty big boost, probably close to 100 HP over what I’m making now, just hope it’s happy at low rpm for wheeling..
 
if he is this good in to motor stuff have him hot wire it and fire it up .

i sold a motor to a friend and hot wired it on a engine stand sh he could hear it run even tho he trusted me . 1-2-3 min no coolant is NOT the end of the world on our old stuff .
 
Yeah I was thinking about that, if he’s good with it, I have my old manifolds(heard you shouldn’t run them right off the head as it can damage valves or something?) but we could throw those on, he said he has a starter and I have a battery and remote starter switch. When you say 1-2-3 min, are you saying they can run for 3 minutes with no coolant? I also wonder how I could see oil psi, pull my manual gauage out of the Jimmy and hook it up..
 
Yeah good point oil psi is the one thing it’ll be hard to know for sure
 
I’m not interested in pulling the pan and using plastic gauage or something like that. I’ll ck everything else and make sure everything adds up
 
engine id pad on the front with that level of pitting = WOW what a core to use . but if it cleaned up o.k. then .
 
is it wet ? I don't like that none of the holes sealed. there aren't even spark plugs in the holes. I do like it's 1 piece rear main. You may need to source a new flex plate, if your old engine is 2 piece rear main.

If you do pop the pan, note oil pump markings, to ID. check the oil pick up is secure and clear of any debris, read rtv. get a nice felpro 1 piece oil pan gasket.
pop valve covers and note casting number. Can't tell from pic's if head casting is light duty or not.
 
It got wet today on the ride home from his storage unit to his house, all good tips/info. Yeah I’m not crazy about no spark plugs exhausts sealed, the bore scope will say a lot..
I have an sm465, so I use a flywheel, I assume no 1pc 2pc rear main seal flywheel are interchangeable tho?
 
Storage unit implies no controlled environment, in an area that gets rain 1/3 days, so the temperature changes will bring condensation. At least one exhaust valve must be open and they're all open through the spark plug holes. It would be lucky if the bores had fared any better than the rusty valve cover. Who knows, maybe he fogged it before putting it away and it was covered with something before dragging it out. More likely no prep for storage was done because he didn't plan to store it for long.
 
Yes for the above...
I couldn't see OP images clearly, but they don't resemble a fresh engine.
 
He said the motor had spark plugs and manifolds on it while in storage, they were removed for the picture to “make it look better” who knows, the bore scope will reveal what’s going on inside.
Going to look at the motor today, a couple other things I was thinking about.
1. How can I verify it is a “Jegs 350/350HP” or what are some things I could check that could help tip the scales that it is more likely or less likely what he says it is, IE: 4 bolt mains.. I don’t think he has any documentation and Jegs system only goes back 5 years. So they can’t provide any documentation.
2. If I swap from a 2 piece rms to a 1 piece rms, I will need either a new clutch or custom flywheel right? Also the starters are different, but all of the other accessories should be the same? Just want to make sure I get everything I need from him or understand what I’m going to have to buy
 
reman motors tend to have tags glued to them from big companys .

flywheel only should be all needed in the swap . starter the same pattern so it will be fine . front end stuff the same also .
 
I’ve read there are different bolt patterns for the clutch, so presumably I would need a different clutch?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom