Questions for buying used Engine

[HawK5]

What kind of spark plugs do you guys recommend? I was at Oreillys and they have several AC Delco, 2 were platinum, 1 was copper, the platinums both said the heat range was 12 and the copper said the heat range was 3?

 

[sweetk30]

good old std application acdelco for your ride will do just fine .

 

[Bent77]

Delco or autolites

Run a series or two hotter for a carburetor

 

[HawK5]

Ok I had them look up 1993 K1500 which had TBI, so are you guys saying go with a heat range 4 or 5?

 

[Wes Harden]

R43ts copper

 

[Bent77]

Ok I had them look up 1993 K1500 which had TBI, so are you guys saying go with a heat range 4 or 5?

You need to look up which plug fits that cylinder head you are using

Probably a 3926 autolite for carb or 3924
I

 

[Wes Harden]

Iirc they are regular reach threads for S/R heads(street replacement)

 

[RaisedK5]

I have the s/r tourqers on my blazer and run a r44ts. So that or what Wes said will work fine.

From the spec sheet:
Spark Plugs: S/R Torquer heads use a 5/8 reach plug such as an Accell 276 or equivalent

 

[HawK5]

Thanks guys, yeah I looked up the WP instruction sheet for these heads and here is the only information listed for spark plugs:
Spark Plugs: .460” reach, 5/8” hex plug.
I will get r43ts or r44ts

 

[Wes Harden]

That's an old school number AC Delco changed the numbering system, but my mind will not retain the new numbers. The R43/44TS will cross to the new numbers

 

[HawK5]

A quick update, sold and pulled the motor today. There was definitely coolant mixing with the oil, the dipstick was always clean but there was lots of goo under the valve cover. Gotta lot of little things that need fixing and cleaning up in the engine bay that’ll keep me busy. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their help and input, fingers crossed the next motor works out.

I admit I’m a litttle nervous it’s been sitting for so long, I’ll pull the pan, check for brass or anything obvious, and pull the valve covers and make sure all of the rockers are moving as expected. Then I’ll change the oil and be sure to prime it and turn over by hand. I got 5-30 synthetic blend, and will put in a zinc additive for extra protection. Then I’ll change the oil again after 500 miles. I was also thinking I’ll fill the cooling system with water only for first fire up, and drain/flush before adding coolant just to make sure the radiator, heater core and new block are all cleaned out.. anything else I should do?

 

[Bent77]

Yeah, dont forget to add the pilot bearing to the crank

 

[Wes Harden]

Always a little nervous when get rid of the old before the new is in esp something with as many pieces as an engine. I hope you got everything you need of the old one.
When you popped the valve covers did you note the casting numbers on old engine heads ?
If you are going to do a break in oil change, use a straight 30w with the zinc. For normal use after 10w40 or 15w40 I don't recommend 5w anything for a gen 1 sbc, cept maybe winter in the arctic circle. I am not sure a break oil change is needed since this motor has some miles on it.
The flush idea is a good one. Have you inspected the radiator for crusties on the tubes inside and green fuzzies at the header ?
One item I might consider, is changing the steel freeze plugs to brass. Esp the 2 at the back behind the flywheel. leave the one in the middle alone that's the cam plug. Make sure the 3 oil gallery pipe plugs are tight and stake them with a chisel. If you keep the coolant up and use distilled water, then the freeze plug thing is just my ocd.

 

[Chickntrk]

I agree with Wes, oil with zinc at first and then 15w40

 

[HawK5]

Always a little nervous when get rid of the old before the new is in esp something with as many pieces as an engine. I hope you got everything you need of the old one.
When you popped the valve covers did you note the casting numbers on old engine heads ?
If you are going to do a break in oil change, use a straight 30w with the zinc. For normal use after 10w40 or 15w40 I don't recommend 5w anything for a gen 1 sbc, cept maybe winter in the arctic circle. I am not sure a break oil change is needed since this motor has some miles on it.
The flush idea is a good one. Have you inspected the radiator for crusties on the tubes inside and green fuzzies at the header ?
One item I might consider, is changing the steel freeze plugs to brass. Esp the 2 at the back behind the flywheel. leave the one in the middle alone that's the cam plug. Make sure the 3 oil gallery pipe plugs are tight and stake them with a chisel. If you keep the coolant up and use distilled water, then the freeze plug thing is just my ocd.

I got the pilot bearing on order, didn’t bother getting the casting number off the Jasper engine. I also discovered a stitch welded area around the dipstick tube in the block, furthering the idea I wanted nothing to do with it. I’ll exchange 10w-30 for some straight 30w for the first oil change. The radiator looks brand new inside, it’s one of those aluminum with plastic side tanks replacements, when you say green fuzzys around the header, where are you referring too?
The motor turns over freely by hand, but what about spraying some wd-40 in the cylinders just for some kind of lube during first cranking, maybe not necessary if I prime and turn over by hand?

 

[Wes Harden]

Aluminum radiator would be white powdery growth near where the tubes meet the core header. Your probably OK in that area.
teaspoon of engine oil or marvel mystery oil in the cylinders won't hurt.
I took the gear off, and cut the mechanical advance off an old distributor. Stick it in turn with a drill clockwise will run the oil pump and pressurize the system.

 

[CT-BLAZER]

Wes has some legitimate ideas to follow....

My engines get brass petcocks to drain the system easily.....

If you don't splurge for brass freeze plugs , replace with steel + coat the back + edges with a copper gasget sealer, or silicone.

When you flush the system, consider adding a commercial flush chemical. .....