CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Questions on 85 K5 becoming seasonal daily driver

I always put plywood under my jack stand if it's not concrete.
Even asphalt needs it in the summer
Yes. I was actually trapped under a car for well I don't know how long seemed like forever. The jack stands fell through the asphalt, it cam down slow and I'm fortunate they stopped the car with only some of the cars weight on me. Very scary
 
It can be a crapshoot taking an older car and making it a daily driver.

I'd make a choice to start driving it daily, get the work done and try it. BEFORE you sell or buy anything else. Drive that truck you have around for a month or so and see how it treats you. After a month or so of daily driving you'll know if you want to continue doing that or not.
 
i guess if you REALLY want something, you'll find a way:
This guy rebuilt a tesla without any online help, or for that matter, any OFFLINE help:

https://www.bostonglobe.com/metro/2...aking-tesla/Sv1l8q2sxpQvTFMp13VFwM/story.html

On that note, the main reason why i came to K5 and the reason why i decided to pay for membership is due to the hard-core-ness, knowledge, and expertise here; You know if you ask almost any truck-related question, you'll get a fast, accurate answer.

i use my 83 as a daily driver. i have simplified it a little (nothing major necessarily), and it is a 2WD (so, a little simpler still)

More later.
 
OK, now the more later; Sorry it took so long:

One of the reasons i switched to a 4.3, was so i could do this:
oAZnjtO.jpg


Yes, i can physically stand in the engine compartment. i'm not saying you should do this, i'm just saying this is what works for me. Makes working on the engine so much easier. ( Note: it also helps to be thinner/lose weight and perhaps more on that in another thread)

Figuratively, a mile of space:
KNet0Pd.jpg
 
I once saw a 2.8 V6 from a Camaro in a 80's C-10 pickup ..
It looked like it was so far back you could put another one in front of it!..
Don't ask me how the guy mated it to the TH350 ,unless they had the same bell housing as a SBC,I couldn't see well enough to tell if it had any adapter --maybe he used the transmission from the Camaro too ?..

When the guy drove off,he smoked the back tire on one side for a good 40 feet and the thing went down the road like a jet..
I was surprised it had enough balls to just propel the truck,period!..:screwy:..

I saw another farm truck someone swapped a 2.5 Iron Duke into ,from a 70's Chevy Monza..it was not a very powerful rig,but it still hauled hay around OK..it had a SM465 too..
 
I say go for it, I use my 76 as a daily driver. my commute is 53 miles each way. Up here in the Sierras 4x4 or 4wd comes in real handy.
Granted I dropped a crate 350 into it just recently and replace all the components (carb to oil pan, flex plate to water pump). It has its quirks
belts squeal, tranny leaks. I plan on redoing the ball joints and exhaust once it warms up. I'm not afraid of driving it, after all I bought it so that I could work on it.
I refuse to have a car payment plus gas an insurance all added to the mix, instead I save my $$$ for car parts and the chance to pick up the kids from school after I get off work, especially since I tell them that I cant wait to go topless
 
I've never understood why this is such an issue for some people... What do you think they did in '85? Somehow brought back cars from the future because "old" stuff can't be daily drivers?
 
I have a nice “new”shiny 3500 Cummins , but I daily 90 V3500 with built 6.5 turbo 120 miles round trip . Old vehicles can do the job you just have to keep up with the maintenance. But you do on new rigs too unless you trade them in every few years.
 
I have always daily driven old rolling junk.
Even my 60 year old Willys jeeps.
Actually, it is the best way I know of to get/keep them in top running condition.
You may not find issues with a vehicle that sees 50 miles every other weekend.
The issues find YOU with a daily driven beater.
I've pulled vehicles out of a farm field and got them running.
Then drove them to work everyday, fixing stuff along the way.
There is a curve of diminishing issues as you go along.

Battery, brakes, tires, belts, hoses, electrical, fluids, mechanical upgrades.
Seems like i always drop a few thousand dollars right up front.
Then a few hundred every month.
Then it levels off after 6 months of driving every day.

People used to yell at me at stop lights; "Nice Willys jeep! I'd like to drive that!"
"I want one!"

What they did not see were the 3 hours i spent on Saturday morning replacing u-joints, or axle seals, or brake shoes.

You have to make it something you enjoy or already enjoy.
Because anything with wheels will mean work if it us old enough or gets driven far enough.

It isn't for everyone.
Sure that 72 Blazer looks like fun.
And they are.
But that guy driving it either pays his dues wrenching or pays someone else.

I think the worst thing you can do with older vehicles is PARK them for long periods.
You aren't "saving" wear and tear on that vehicle.
You are letting it rot.

Saw this phenomenon with my Dad's DeSotos and other classic cars.

The car that sits, rots.
The car the gets used, runs.
 
Go for it, just make it reliable before selling the current reliable rig. Learn as much as possible but farm out what you have to for safety or schedule reasons.
 
I've never understood why this is such an issue for some people... What do you think they did in '85? Somehow brought back cars from the future because "old" stuff can't be daily drivers?

35yrs of wear and tear. I'm sure 1950 chevy's weren't that reliable back in 85 either.
 
I doubt we'll see many 2019 trucks still on the road 35 years later..|
(I wont at least,I'd be 95 years old by then,if I live that long!)..

They don't make em to last like they used too..
Most every 1990 and newer GM pickup I've looked into buying up here turns out to be a "parts truck",they have so much rot on the frame,body,and most have 300,000 miles and will need a transmission or engine work soon..
The few old square bodies left around here have better frames,and drive trains..their sheet metal rots ,but the rest of the truck holds up quite well compared to the newer models..and prices on them are going UP rapidly,due to demand,a lot of people want the older,more rugged pickups..not a 50,000 dollar one,just to use for work..
 
I haven't stopped by to reply to this thread in a while. My truck is still in winter mode, chained up with the plow on, so I haven't been contemplating driving it lately. On this date a few years ago we got 30 inches of snow, and there's snow in the forecast at least once this coming week, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

My goal with this project is a fair-weather, seasonal DD if you will. I'm not trying to replace a more modern vehicle. I don't expect a free lunch as they say, nor do I want one, rather I want a project-type vehicle that isn't perfect so that I can learn things as I go along and have something to be proud of. I know that a 35-year-old vehicle will need work and regular maintenance and I don't expect otherwise.
 
I haven't stopped by to reply to this thread in a while. My truck is still in winter mode, chained up with the plow on, so I haven't been contemplating driving it lately. On this date a few years ago we got 30 inches of snow, and there's snow in the forecast at least once this coming week, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

My goal with this project is a fair-weather, seasonal DD if you will. I'm not trying to replace a more modern vehicle. I don't expect a free lunch as they say, nor do I want one, rather I want a project-type vehicle that isn't perfect so that I can learn things as I go along and have something to be proud of. I know that a 35-year-old vehicle will need work and regular maintenance and I don't expect otherwise.
What issues does it have?
Maybe make a list from most pressing to cosmetic.
Anything related to how it runs and drives and gets it to pass your state inspections.
I think you mentioned it had something it needed before it could pass.
What was that thing?
 
I bought my 89 in 96 as a 60k mi, bone stock, hard loaded, 1 owner for $5000. It had 3.08 posi, street tires, and the guys new wife hated it. I was in the right place at the right time. I've done axles (twice), engine, just did the tranny for the 2nd time, tires, shocks, etc, and kept up with maintenance as well as a couple of tweaks. I think I have Maybe $8-$10k plus purchase price in it.

It's been dd, road tripped, boat hauler, camping rig, etc. for 23 years. It still needs attention, but just ordinary usual stuff that wears on all vehicles. I know every sound it makes and I would not hesitate to drive it anywhere.

If you love it and don't mind improving your skill set, keep it and make what you want.

My wife hates my truck.
 
I once saw a 2.8 V6 from a Camaro in a 80's C-10 pickup ..
It looked like it was so far back you could put another one in front of it!..
Don't ask me how the guy mated it to the TH350 ,unless they had the same bell housing as a SBC,I couldn't see well enough to tell if it had any adapter --maybe he used the transmission from the Camaro too ?..

When the guy drove off,he smoked the back tire on one side for a good 40 feet and the thing went down the road like a jet..
I was surprised it had enough balls to just propel the truck,period!..:screwy:..

I saw another farm truck someone swapped a 2.5 Iron Duke into ,from a 70's Chevy Monza..it was not a very powerful rig,but it still hauled hay around OK..it had a SM465 too..

The 60 degree v-6's, 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 etc. do NOT have the same bellhousing pattern as TH-350, 400, but there are aftermarket adapters available. The 700r4 and 200 4r DO, i think, have dual patterns to accept "conventional" small blocks, BOP engines as well as the metric 60 degree v-6's and other 4 cyls. i think the iron duck DOES have the "conventional" small block bell pattern though.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom