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Quick 1 ton swap question.

Jake_C_

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I was browsing the forums and I couldn’t find an exact answer. I know a Dana 60 is a direct bolt up for the K5. Brakes may be different? And a 3/4 ton 14 bolt is also a direct bolt up. Again brakes may be different. So my question is are the driveshaft lengths different? Not necessarily going to be doing this swap but I’m curious.
 
Lengths might be a problem because the snout where the yoke goes is longer= shorter driveshaft. But not by much and often not a problem. Brakes are different, U bolts and U joints also.
 
Lengths might be a problem because the snout where the yoke goes is longer= shorter driveshaft. But not by much and often not a problem. Brakes are different, U bolts and U joints also.
Right I forgot to mention the U bolts and U joints. I knew the yoke lengths were different but I didn’t know by how much and I just had brand new driveshafts made so if I ever do a swap down the road a determining factor might be whether I need new driveshafts or not. Thanks for the info!
 
At least shortening them is cheaper. Or better yet, throw some ZeroRates on, get an inch of lift and lengthen the wheelbase too :D
 
I’m swapping a FF Dana 60 rear into my K5 right now and given how short our driveshafts are, it’s best to also include a switch to a double cardan joint and rotate your axle up to point directly at the t-case, which I’m doing.

I think my rear stock driveshaft was lengthened an inch a long time ago and with my D60 rotated up, it’s about .5” too long at full compression. The cost locally, to modify|install the double cardan was more than getting a whole new driveshaft from one of the online guys, about $400.

Up front I have 4” of lift + an easy inch pushing the axle forward on my D44 swap and had to lengthen the front About 2 inches. Stock brakes up front, bolted right up to the D44.

Charlie
 

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