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quick 700r4 question.

ciffer

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is there any differance between 700r4s in 4x4 vehicles and those in RWD vehicles.
 
The tail housing and I believe the output shaft is longer in a RWD than in a 4x4. I have been told that it is possible to remove the tail housing then trim the output shaft length, but I haven't tried it...yet!

Edit: There may also be a difference in the seal at the back of the trans, I have never gotten a clear answer on that one. What I had heard was there was a seal that was included on 4x4 units that isn't present on the RWD units because the tail housing has a seal.
 
That's correct. Also the inspection cover is typically aluminum in trucks and plastic in other applications. I'm not sure about the threads for the support rods.
 
the reason i am asking is that the K10 in my signature might be needing a transmission at some point. i have a chance to buy a used one very cheap but i don't have information about what vehicle it is from.

if i buy the used transmission, could i swap over the tailshaft housing and other 4x4 specific parts to the used transmission if needed?
 
find a 4x tryanny

the housing has the bosses for the 4x inspection cover, making it much more rigid & stronger...
 
Basically you have to tear both transmissions apart and put all of the good insides from the 2WD tranny and put them into the 4WD case. You have to re-use a couple of parts from the 4WD unit. Might as well just rebuild the transmission you have and avoid issues with differences between the valve bodies.
 
find a 4x tryanny

the housing has the bosses for the 4x inspection cover, making it much more rigid & stronger...


the first one i was looking at is definitely not 4x4 but i think i found another one in my area that is a 88-92 4x4, low mileage and the guy is asking $200. i am going to try to pick it up tomorrow. i figure at that price, even if the K10 never needs it, it is worth buying just for a spare.

slightly different subject, what is the inspection cover?
 
The 4x4 case is a "K" case, supposed to be thicker. But I think after 86 or 87 they all are. It also has a 6 bolt inspection cover compared to the RWD 4 bolt. The output shaft is different as the speedo sensor is in the transfercase. The RWD has the speedo gear or rotor on the output shaft itself. The inspection cover covers the flexplate and torque converter. Allows access to converter bolts.
 
the first one i was looking at is definitely not 4x4 but i think i found another one in my area that is a 88-92 4x4, low mileage and the guy is asking $200. i am going to try to pick it up tomorrow. i figure at that price, even if the K10 never needs it, it is worth buying just for a spare.

slightly different subject, what is the inspection cover?


Some folks call them flywheel covers. They fill the gap on the bottom of the tranny between the engine & tranny.

The 2x's are thin, stamped sheet metal, the 4x's are thicker cast aluminum.

here's a pic of a 2wd

http://i15.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/f3/af/7768_1.JPG

and a 4wd

http://i21.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/3c/4e/1060_1.JPG
 
got a hold of the guy with the 4x4 transmission. i don't know the exact year yet, but it is out of an 88-92, so it has the updated valve body. it was rebuilt by a trans shop 5,000 miles ago, he rolled the truck and is parting it out.

even if his story is BS, a working 4x4 700r4 for $200 seems like a good deal to me, i just have to drive 45 miles to pick it up.
 
got the transmission, now i just need to do some reading about how to remove/replace a transmission in one of these trucks. anyone have any links?
 
I don't know of any links, but be sure the TV cable is adjusted right. You can destroy a transmission quickly if it's not.
 
Nothing to it really, pretty basic.
However, there are two things to do right or you will destroy it.

1) The aforementioned T.V. cable adjustment.

Here's the first page of google results on how to do it.

2) You most likely will have a lock up torque converter. Most do, unless converted.

You must make certain the the t.c. "clicks" twice when installing on the tranny to properly seat it. If you don't, the t.c. will bind up against the pump & burn up the tranny.

more google... ;)
 
P.S., don't over think this stuff, it'll make you nuts if you let it!

remember, this is fun..:haha:
 
are there any tricks to removing the transmission or is it just a matter of unbolting it and taking it out? does the transfer case have to be removed with the transmission?
 
are there any tricks to removing the transmission or is it just a matter of unbolting it and taking it out? does the transfer case have to be removed with the transmission?


Doesn't have to if you have a proper tranny jack, but it will probably be easier if you do...

removal is pretty straightforward.

remove driveshafts, speedo cable, wire connectors, shift linkage (tranny & t-case), vent tube, fluid lines to cooler, inspection cover, torque rods & remove torque converter to flexplate bolts

drop crossmember & t-case

remove 7 bolts holding tranny to engine, drop tranny

installation is the opposite
 
can the cooler line bungs be safely removed? the bungs on the new transmission have a little bit of grime in them, i would like to clean that out before installing.
 
can the cooler line bungs be safely removed? the bungs on the new transmission have a little bit of grime in them, i would like to clean that out before installing.
Yes, lefty loosey righty tighty. Just remember the case is aluminum. Flare nut wrenches are your friend here.

Doesn't have to if you have a proper tranny jack, but it will probably be easier if you do...

removal is pretty straightforward.

remove driveshafts, speedo cable, wire connectors, shift linkage (tranny & t-case), vent tube, fluid lines to cooler, inspection cover, torque rods & remove torque converter to flexplate bolts

drop crossmember & t-case

remove 7 bolts holding tranny to engine, drop tranny

installation is the opposite
Where is the 7th bolt? 700's, 4l60's, and 4l60e's only have 6.
 

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