What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Quick question on TBI / crate 190hp motor

metalneverdies said:
would this stuff and some regular 10w30 be enough for proper break in or do I really need to spend $40+ on "break-in" oil?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/28060/10002/-1
Click to expand...
Do you have flat tappet lifters? Then this stuff is WRONG! This is a break in for Roller Lifters.

You think break in additive is expensive? Wait till you pay for PROPER oil for flat tappet cams...

Only 2 I know of are Amsoil full synthetic 10w 40 with Zinc and Phosphorus and Joe Gibbs racing oil.

Other then that there is no oil left on shelf at auto parts stores for flat tappet cams. Also the additives at parts stores for Zinc and Phosphorous are a help, but still for roller cam engines and not enough for adequate protection of flat tappet cams.

If more people realized this. these old engines would last longer...
 
eagle mark said:
Do you have flat tappet lifters? Then this stuff is WRONG! This is a break in for Roller Lifters.

You think break in additive is expensive? Wait till you pay for PROPER oil for flat tappet cams...

Only 2 I know of are Amsoil full synthetic 10w 40 with Zinc and Phosphorus and Joe Gibbs racing oil.

Other then that there is no oil left on shelf at auto parts stores for flat tappet cams. Also the additives at parts stores for Zinc and Phosphorous are a help, but still for roller cam engines and not enough for adequate protection of flat tappet cams.

If more people realized this. these old engines would last longer...
Click to expand...

No I think the stuff I posted was cheap. Thats why I was hoping it would work.

however, the description says it does contain the things you listed off. Also the description says it works for flat cams and rollers.

I am not saying you are wrong. I just dont understand the difference if they both contain the same chemicals.
 
I read it as ROLLER cams? Could be wrong...

IIRC the stuff mentioned below from Comp Cams is for Flat Tappet cams.

There is also stuff at parts store saying it does same thing but has no Zinc and Phosphourous.
 
eagle mark said:
I read it as ROLLER cams? Could be wrong...

IIRC the stuff mentioned below from Comp Cams is for Flat Tappet cams.

There is also stuff at parts store saying it does same thing but has no Zinc and Phosphourous.
Click to expand...

You are correct I was thinking of the comp cams one. Posted from my phone right after I got up.

So the comp cams and some rotella would be a good break in combo?
 
What are your thoughts on running the Brad Penn 30w oil for the initial 20 min cam break in and then switching straight to the Brad Penn semi syn. 10w30 and running that for the life of the motor?

Is there any major issues with running a straight weight oil on break in?

I understand it is best to do the cam break in when the motor is warm, but I need to start it and get the timing adjusted as quick as possible. Do i turn the motor off then re attach my timning advance and let the motor warm up before doing the 2000 rpm hold for 20 min to break in the cam?
 
metalneverdies said:
What are your thoughts on running the Brad Penn 30w oil for the initial 20 min cam break in and then switching straight to the Brad Penn semi syn. 10w30 and running that for the life of the motor?

Is there any major issues with running a straight weight oil on break in?

I understand it is best to do the cam break in when the motor is warm, but I need to start it and get the timing adjusted as quick as possible. Do i turn the motor off then re attach my timning advance and let the motor warm up before doing the 2000 rpm hold for 20 min to break in the cam?
Click to expand...
You can't beat the Brad Penn oil for flat tappet cams but I would still run the new cam break in additive! But after initial break in and oil change it's still not recommended to use synthetic oil, I think 400 miles? Check cam recommendations.

No! Don't turn engine off. You can get distributor close enough to TDC and leave EST bypass plugged in for break in. After break in then set base timing.

Lifter assembly lube! Prime oil pump!
 
eagle mark said:
You can't beat the Brad Penn oil for flat tappet cams but I would still run the new cam break in additive! But after initial break in and oil change it's still not recommended to use synthetic oil, I think 400 miles? Check cam recommendations.

No! Don't turn engine off. You can get distributor close enough to TDC and leave EST bypass plugged in for break in. After break in then set base timing.

Lifter assembly lube! Prime oil pump!
Click to expand...

I was going to order the summit oil prime pump. How do I lube lifter assembly?

Brad penn only makes semi syn. What is a high zinc/phos. Non syn. Oil for finishing break in? I really don't like the idea of cruising around with straight 30 weight for an additional 500 mi.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom