Just threw a 6 inch all spring kit on my 87 blazer. I got the springs used but they were in great shape, But missing the pinion shims. I called rough country and ordered the shims that they said came with the springs. They sent me 4 2.5 degree shims. They look like they are correct for the front. But not even close for the rear. Im also running a zero rate on these springs. Im thinking a 6 degree would be better but was wondering if someone with the similar setup had some input. Also I was reading somewhere of people welding the shims to the axle so they dont slip out. Is this a good idea? Thanks in advance.
CK5
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Quick Question
- Thread starter Budrun
- Start date
Really it's just going to depend on what the angles are and where they need to be. With the zero rates you are pushing the axle up the rear part of the spring, rotating the pinion down. I have 4* shims in my rear packs and 10* in my fronts... It just depends on where everything is.
As for the welding, I personally wouldn't. Just make sure your center pins are new and tight and that your u-bolts are tight and rock it. I don't like the idea of heat-soaking leaf springs and potentially removing the heat-treating. Bolt them together with some lock-tite and run it
As for the welding, I personally wouldn't. Just make sure your center pins are new and tight and that your u-bolts are tight and rock it. I don't like the idea of heat-soaking leaf springs and potentially removing the heat-treating. Bolt them together with some lock-tite and run it
Here is what it looks like with the 2.5 degree shims. As for the steel shims i was asking about i would not weld them on while the leafs were bolted up. Just tack them and then lower the axle and weld them. I havent tighetened the u bolts yet. I want to get this angle figured out, so i can measure for the drivelines to be lengthened.
yeah, that pinion definitely needs to come up. Do you have a cv shaft on there? If so you're going to want to point the pinion pretty much straight at the output on the transfer case. If you do have a cv, put an angle finder on the driveshaft and figure out how many degrees you need to go up to get the pinion set. Then add 2.5* to that to account for the shim that's already there. I assume you're gonna need about ~6-8* to correct that.
Are your wheels centered in the wheel well? If not it's possible you put the springs in backwards. I know some trucks have springs with the center pin offset, that could be adding to your problem.
I still wouldn't recommend welding anything to the spring pack or the spring perches. If you wanted to go through that you may as well cut the perches off and rotate the axle to where it needs to be and reweld.
Are your wheels centered in the wheel well? If not it's possible you put the springs in backwards. I know some trucks have springs with the center pin offset, that could be adding to your problem.
I still wouldn't recommend welding anything to the spring pack or the spring perches. If you wanted to go through that you may as well cut the perches off and rotate the axle to where it needs to be and reweld.
you have to pick up an angle finder
we can't tell you what you need unless you get us some angles, though there are great sources for figuring out angles on driveline websites.
I run shackle flip and 0 rates in the rear, CV shaft, no shims.
Front is moved 1.5" forward, 5* cut o rates.
Though I have no drive time on any of this.
we can't tell you what you need unless you get us some angles, though there are great sources for figuring out angles on driveline websites.
I run shackle flip and 0 rates in the rear, CV shaft, no shims.
Front is moved 1.5" forward, 5* cut o rates.
Though I have no drive time on any of this.
