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Radiators = new vs rebuilt

groovy75

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Got the shifter deal figured out ,now working on radiator. There's a guy in town who will rebuild my radiator for 138.00 (6 month warrantee) vs like 200 bucks for the new 2 row one at the zone(lifetime warrantee). I'm not sure but the guy says the one I have in the 75 that's bad might be a 3 row and might be made better than a new plastic ones at a retail parts store. I kind of dig the idea of rebuilding things better than just buying a new one,granted the lifetime warrantee has me torn between the 2. Don't know if I have a 3 row but if I do shld I have him rebuild it? Because I like the idea of a 3 row if it is what I have.they don't even carry a 3 row that I can buy for my 75. Also, what about A tranny cooler lines etc ? Should I go with a rebuilt rad with a seprate exterior mounted cooler or ? Have any of you out there had your radiator rebuilt? How did it pan out ? THanks :-)
 
I just had the original rebuilt on my suburban last year. The way the guy at the radiator shop explained to me was that the factory radiators have good quality components, but didn't solder them that great. He prefers to resolder the original stuff....and solder it correctly. He saved me 50 bucks over new and did a great job.

If the new radiator is an aluminum core with plastic caps, i would run away. those things are junk.
 
I noticed a kind of similar thread about a 454 radior below mine,didn't mean to step on toes w this thread.I'm lookin for a -bolt it in and go- type deal that dosent entail changing rad mounts.
 
I replaced mine with a autozone one. Runs much cooler and fit perfect. Saved my old brass/copper one and will have it rebuilt one day, but for now it works fine. The new one will likely be plastic/aluminum,
 
Radiator is not a place I will go less than the best I can do ever again.
 
i stuck a radiator from a chevy truck at the junkyard. was def bigger than my stock one, i had to modify some mounts to make it work. There were a couple nice lookin ones at the junkyard last time i was there, 40 bucks and its been running strong since.

You could probably stick something else bigger in there, you just gotta change the top mounts and worry about the fan shroud.
 
i stuck a radiator from a chevy truck at the junkyard. was def bigger than my stock one, i had to modify some mounts to make it work. There were a couple nice lookin ones at the junkyard last time i was there, 40 bucks and its been running strong since.

You could probably stick something else bigger in there, you just gotta change the top mounts and worry about the fan shroud.
my truck didn't come w a shroud .

:thumb: 40 bucks sounds temting tho! I don't know man, the more I read about the larger rad the better it sounds.its got direct drive on the fan, adding a clutch and a 7 blade sounds like somethin 4 later . I want to wheel now! Lol mabey we cld meet up this week or weekend Chris? Looks like you have it figured out on yours already.
 
I bought an oversized radiator and modified the brackets to make it work. I also got the Derale dual electric fans with the aluminum shroud mounted to it. It took me 30 minutes to modify the original mounts; I formed a new lip to extend the brackets, then drilled and plug welded them to the originals. Shot em with black paint, looks completely stock.

If it were me, I'd use this as an opportunity to upgrade.
 
My dad owns a radiator shop in NJ. Nowadays, the ones you get from auto zone and the like are cheap aluminum and plastic. With the older radiators like in your truck, the copper and brass provides a much better cooling effort than the aluminum. Most likely what he will do when he "rebuilds" your radiator is take the tanks off and give you a brand new core. You will have your tanks that are on it now, with just a new core. Also, you can't fix plastic and aluminum very easily, where as the copper and brass you can patch and solder without any major issues. I'd go rebuilt. also, see if he can put a "High Efficient" Core in it. This would consist of having the same tanks, but having more fins per inch and more tubes in the core itself. Hope this helps.
 
I noticed my temps stay cooler with the alum/plastic one as opposed to the OE style. Mine wasnt even bad or leaking but for peace of mind i wanted it new. Going to upgrade the fan clutch to the HD style though. Hear that helps as well.
 
I got a broad mixture of opinions on this one. I thought for sure it would be this or that , but I think I might be a little more confused now lol.I think I might put this on pause until I can get the thing out,post pics and see what you guys think about the rad I already have and if its worth restoring.. Might be better than rushing thru and end up with a hokey setup .THanks for all your opinions all! An oversised rad sounds like the way to go!be back in a week or so with some pics . 2 be continued.......... :thumb:
 
I got my OE rebuilt on the 78 K5. I think it is a 3 core and it is well built. I would rather rebuilt the original. It is solid built to start with. Don't know what you get now days.
 
watching this with interest. the "original" (came with the truck when i bought it a few years ago, so dont really know if its the original) radiator in my M1009 died due to a battery coming loose while 4 wheeling, and replaced it with a like unit. which is now leaking... so the quality of it is suspect... that or i never flushed out the creek water i used to refill the system when the original radiator failed on the trail. could also explain why my t-stat is toast. ANYWAY.. i digress. ive also been on the fence about repair vs replacement... so reading the views on here with great interest. :popcorn:
 
Here's my setup:

5072248079_98417f730b.jpg
 
I noticed my temps stay cooler with the alum/plastic one as opposed to the OE style. Mine wasnt even bad or leaking but for peace of mind i wanted it new. Going to upgrade the fan clutch to the HD style though. Hear that helps as well.

The aluminum/plastic rads will cool better, aluminum is a better heat conductor. IIRC a 2 row aluminum will cool as good, if not better than, a 3 row copper/brass unit. BUT the copper/brass rads are a more durable, better constructed part. They will take more abuse in the long run.
 
Actually, Copper has a much higher heat conductivity than aluminum does; 400 W/mK versus 255 W/mK. Aluminum conducts less than 65% of the heat that copper does. The reason most rads are now aluminum is simply due to cost. When I replaced the rad in my k5 last year, I bought a spectra premium brass/copper rad. It was about $100 more than an aluminum/plastic rad, but well worth it imo. I looked into rebuilding the factory rad, but there was not much difference in price, and the tanks on mine were kind of beat up.
 
Actually, Copper has a much higher heat conductivity than aluminum does; 400 W/mK versus 255 W/mK. Aluminum conducts less than 65% of the heat that copper does. The reason most rads are now aluminum is simply due to cost. When I replaced the rad in my k5 last year, I bought a spectra premium brass/copper rad. It was about $100 more than an aluminum/plastic rad, but well worth it imo. I looked into rebuilding the factory rad, but there was not much difference in price, and the tanks on mine were kind of beat up.

How was the quality on the spectra? Where was it made?
 
Not sure where it was made (can't remember since its been over a year). Quality was very good though. It looked and fit exactly like the original and has no problem keeping my truck cool.
 
Yo = that's looks flippin awesome! Its so clean too. Compared to the ugly ratsnest I got going on under my hood !is there a writeup on that? How much HP did you gain eliminating the stock fan?
 
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