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Radius Arms or 3-Link?

PGW

PGW

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Posts
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Location
CC, TX
I'm planning on (eventually) building a prerunner style Burb and was wondering if 3-links or radius arms would be better for the front (along with coilovers). All I need it to do is to soak up whoops and small bumps at moderate speed, 40mph or so tops. The Burb will be loaded down with camping/fishing equipment so I want a smooth ride so if I hit a bump, crap doesn't go flying around inside.

I've done some research and already know a 3-link will outflex radius arms, but I'm not really shooting for flex here, pretty much just staight up and down suspension travel. Also I've read that radius arms are a little easier to setup, and since I'm a fab/suspension noob it would probably benefit me.

What are y'all's thoughts on this?
 
a local used a ford radius arm coil spring setup on his k5 racer, if i can find pics I'll post.
 
Cool, that would be awesome!

I'm also liking the anti-body roll characteristics that radius arms have, I would be afraid that a 3-link would be pretty floppy. Am I correct in this assumption?
 
You can't go wrong with radius arms for what you want out of the burb. I just finished my build using radius arms and coilovers on my blazer and you're absolutely right about setting them up. It is fairly simple and I'd say that set up probably has the advantage over a 3 link for what you want to do. The body roll factor came to mind as soon as I read your post also. I drove a ford prerunner with coilovers, an A-arm set up and a very stiff spring rate and it seemed to have just as much if not more body roll as my rig and I sit much higher with a softer spring rate. With coilovers in general I'm sure you will be pleased with the ride quality and once dialed in it would be a great set up. 40 mph shouldnt be a problem and you will likely want to go much faster! :D
 
nicks93kblazer said:
You can't go wrong with radius arms for what you want out of the burb. I just finished my build using radius arms and coilovers on my blazer and you're absolutely right about setting them up. It is fairly simple and I'd say that set up probably has the advantage over a 3 link for what you want to do. The body roll factor came to mind as soon as I read your post also. I drove a ford prerunner with coilovers, an A-arm set up and a very stiff spring rate and it seemed to have just as much if not more body roll as my rig and I sit much higher with a softer spring rate. With coilovers in general I'm sure you will be pleased with the ride quality and once dialed in it would be a great set up. 40 mph shouldnt be a problem and you will likely want to go much faster! :D
Click to expand...

Sweet! Just what I wanted to hear. :D By the way, how did you setup the RA-axle connection? Did you use bushings?
 
radius arms are a better package i think, with the oil pan front driveshaft and stuff it gets pretty tight up front. plus less parts to break.
 
Hey Phil it looks like were thinking alike. I’m looking a doing the same thing on the 91’burb I’ve been trying to sell and since I came across a 454 with a 4l80e I’m thinking about keeping it and doing some sort of coilover shock configuration for it as I’m also looking for a smoother ride down the island.
If you need some help or need a place to work on your burb give me a shout.
later
Trey
 
Well Trey if you ever need a hand with your project let me know.
I'm beginning to have second thoughts about getting coilovers. I've seen lots of pictures rusty coilovers and I'm not sure how well it would hold up on the beach. It would suck to have an $800+ shock rust out in 2 years.
I think a progressive coil and seperate shock would hold up a little better in the salty environment. Of course it is kind of tempting just to get some custom front leafs for simplicity.
 
Yea I hear ya on the rust thing that’s probably the biggest reason I haven’t pulled the trigger yet on getting them and with the price of fuel I think I’m better off spending my money on something else. Another thing I’ve been looking at is hydraulic bump stops to go with my current setup to keep the suspension from bottoming out so hard on unsuspecting washouts and holes on the beach. With my current suspension (6” skyjacker soft rides with bilstein 5150’s) it handles just about everything on the beach at speed and than some. Its just when I hit some of the washouts and other objects unknowingly it bottoms out the suspension pretty hard and that’s what I’m trying to soften. Anyway keep in touch and hope to see you on the sand.

later
Trey
 
A bit off topic...

1bgsub said:
Just found this thread and what a great build it has given me a few ideas for my next project, a 91’ burb with a 454, 4l80e with about 6” of lift. I’m looking at doing some sort of 3 or 4 link front suspension so I can run the beach (Padre Island National Seashore) with out getting bounced around so much. Thanks for the info.

later
Trey
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hey Trey, I'm not sure if you're referring to SPI or CC's Padre Island, but please remember to tread lightly if you're planning on running & jumping the dunes of South Padre Island, it is illegal and there's creatures to be considered. So if you're in the real south Texas (AKA the Valley), shoot for Boca Chica Beach or Playa Baghdad in Mexico. And if it's CC, then nevermind my rant since I don't know the laws of the park up that way. Anyway, I'd do a double triangulated four link :D
 
Don’t worry this truck is not going to be jumping dunes I’m just wanting to do something to smooth out the rough spots on the beach. The beach I’m referring to is North padre island and the particular stretch that I run is on the national seashore.

later
Trey

IMG_0093a.jpg
 
radius arm setup is a decent compromise of travel, handling (off road), and packaging. I think the +'s outweigh the -'s
 
I finally hit 15 posts so I can contibute to this thread--
Here's my frontend, well, in the build stage--

egz2ux.jpg


my steering shaft solution for better coilover clearance-
jinubl.jpg


It's tight up there, drag link tucks between the engine crossmember, and track bar has about 3/4" of oil pan clearance, and that was with the small block in there... :doah: haven't gotten the 454 in to check yet but there may be some issues...
2dhwf0n.jpg
 
Are you adding more vertical support for the top of the shock? I really would be worried about the fire wall pealing if you do jump a dune as your name implies. What are you using at the frame end of your arms?
 
ktmoutfront said:
Are you adding more vertical support for the top of the shock? I really would be worried about the fire wall pealing if you do jump a dune as your name implies. What are you using at the frame end of your arms?
Click to expand...

The hoop tube runs from the front frame end to the a-pillar cage tube, and I've also added an additional support tube from the hoop to the frame (you can kinda see it behind the reservoir in this pic).
2rpd3qg.jpg


Here's the shock hoop tube to a-pillar intersection. Didn't mean to make it look like the firewall was supporting the front end of the truck, I just plated that juntion so it would stay put an not rub when wheelin.
id4t2g.jpg


Frame end pivots are 1 1/4" heims
kbysur.jpg
 
ktmoutfront said:
Tell me more about this race in Powell, Wy.
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We hold 3 to 4 races. Year on our 3.5 mile track on the 120 acres we own. The race is a one hour race and whoever with most laps wins type deal. We follow the rules set by the Montana 4x4 Association (www.m4x4a.org). We have one scheduled for next saturday.
 
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