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Raise Tcase back to stock location.

TJ1978

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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So, as some may remember my '78 Blazer is lifted at 4" and has a 203 with part-time kit with warn manual locking hubs and the 203 is dropped, done by a previous owner.

I want to get the 203 or 205 for that matter back up to the stock location and in doing so, I have ORD competition motor mounts I want to install and will need my exhaust redone. It drops a tad too low to do this presently, lift Tcase while keeping existing exhaust. I have electric fans so the shroud isn't an issue in any of this. If the exhaust wasn't in the way I'd just lift the 203 back up and see if it vibrates if it doesn't then I'd just send it. I'm more inclined to just leave the 203 for now as I would hopefully not have to get new drive shafts or have mine redone just yet.

I also have a 205 I can put in or I can leave the 203 in until it dies and just get it back to stock location until its death. I'm fine to do this as the 203 seems to be fine.

So what is the best coarse of action here? Steps to be taken in proper order so I'm it redoing stuff pointlessly?

Have exhaust redone first to have it up in the frame rails? Or remove the the exhaust from the header collector back and do the 203 lift and motor mounts? And Just drive it to exhaust shop with open headers?

Or just go for it and put the 205 in now

I want to do plan this out so I'm not redoing things in the process.

I will probably wait until after the AZ summer to tackle this, well maybe I may get restless and just start.

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TJ1978 said:
So, as some may remember my '78 Blazer is lifted at 4" and has a 203 with part-time kit with warn manual locking hubs and the 203 is dropped, done by a previous owner.

I want to get the 203 or 205 for that matter back up to the stock location and in doing so, I have ORD competition motor mounts I want to install and will need my exhaust redone. It drops a tad too low to do this presently, lift Tcase while keeping existing exhaust. I have electric fans so the shroud isn't an issue in any of this.

I also have a 205 I can put in or I can leave the 203 in until it dies and just get it back to stock location until its death. I'm fine to do this as the 203 seems to be fine.

So what is the best coarse of action here? Steps to be taken in proper order so I'm it redoing stuff pointlessly?

Have exhaust redone first to have it up in the frame rails? Or remove the the exhaust from the header collector back and do the 203 lift and motor mounts? And Just drive it to exhaust shop with open headers?

Or just go for it and put the 205 in now

I want to do plan this out so I'm not redoing things in the process.

I will probably wait until after the AZ summer to tackle this, well maybe I may get restless and just start.

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That t-case pic makes me think of a black widow…
 
I think you will want the tcase in the stock position for sure with the comp motor mounts. I have them with the ord crossmember and they are firm. I think getting the bolts in with the engine tilted might be really tough. When I did my engine swap I actually left the smaller mount bolts loose and only tightened them up after the engine was in place and the long bolts were through the mount .
 
I think I'd probably run it as is until you are ready to swap mounts. Dropping the case isn't good and we've all seen may examples of bent or cracked frames from doing it BUT that's typically from only having the 2 tubing spacers under the frame. Since you have the long 1 pc spacer I imagine the load is spread adequately so you won't have problems.
 
@nvrenuf "ready" as in when the present motor mounts fail or "ready" because I want to get it done? I doubt I can get the new ORD motor mounts in with the engine dropped like it is. Even doing one at a time.

I'm thinking I could remove the exhaust and put the 203 back to stock assuming driveline can handle 1-2" change, drive around block and check for vibrations. If none go get the exhaust redone.

Or do you recommend I just get the exhaust done first getting it inside the frame rails and go from there?
 
You want the tcase loose and movable while you do the ord mounts.

Drop the exhaust, bolt that t case up to frame and drive to the exhaust shop. Be sure to do that on way to work leave a 1/2 hour early
 
Fastereddie said:
Definitely do not redo the exhaust until you are done moving the drivetrain around.
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Order I'm seeing.
1.Unbolt exhaust
2. raise Tcase,
3.do motor mounts,
4. Drive For vibrations.
5. Exhaust
6. Possible have to shim rear if vibrations occur raising 203 back up

Maybe 5 and 6 switch depending on if I get vibrations from raising Tcase.

@Wes Harden Raising the Tcase that 2" should not affect the drivelines?
 
Wes Harden said:
You want the tcase loose and movable while you do the ord mounts.

Drop the exhaust, bolt that t case up to frame and drive to the exhaust shop. Be sure to do that on way to work leave a 1/2 hour early
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Should I remove rear driveline while doing motor mounts? I keep Tcase/cross member bolts a tad loose as well while installing motor mounts?
 
Really, these items need to be considered as 1 big all inclusive project -

Motor mounts - this will be easier with the tcase raised, lining up the bolts with the dropped tcase will be a PITA
Exhaust - the bend around the tcase will likely need to be in a slightly different place for a 205 vs a 203 UNLESS you have the bend made high and long to satisfy either tcase.
Driveshafts - different lengths per tcase but also need to be considered when checking / fixing possible driveline vibrations

I think the tcase swap could prove to be a can of worms unless it's all done together.
 
nvrenuf said:
Really, these items need to be considered as 1 big all inclusive project -

Motor mounts - this will be easier with the tcase raised, lining up the bolts with the dropped tcase will be a PITA
Exhaust - the bend around the tcase will likely need to be in a slightly different place for a 205 vs a 203 UNLESS you have the bend made high and long to satisfy either tcase.
Driveshafts - different lengths per tcase but also need to be considered when checking / fixing possible driveline vibrations

I think the tcase swap could prove to be a can of worms unless it's all done together.
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I plan to do this all together, which is why I was looking for advice on the step by step coarse of action, as if one of you guys were doing this, what order would you proceed in.
 
TJ1978 said:
I plan to do this all together, which is why I was looking for advice on the step by step coarse of action, as if one of you guys were doing this, what order would you proceed in.
Click to expand...
I’d cut the exhaust off then get all the mounts where I wanted them, then it would be dark and I’d be drunk, I’d forget I did this and start it up to go to work the next morning, be driving to work with no exhaust and remember I left the mounts loose at which point the vibrations would remind me…..

But really, cut the exhaust off, get all the mounts done and then run your exhaust, I would have them bend the pipe to clear either case.
 
After I redid the 205 and that was documented in another thread. Is there a way to know it's working properly before putting it in the truck?

All the gears spin and shifter seemed to have shifted just trying it while it's on the floor.

If I'm going to all the trouble of raising the Tcase back up I might as well swap out the 203. Even if I just raise the 203 back up to stock location, that will require the exhaust being redone anyway.
 
Are ready $$ wise to do the drive shafts and the exhaust ? Not sure what t case shifter you are using that may be another expense. If you are good to go $$ yeah do the 205 swap, put the mounts all back to stock location.
 
Don’t forget to put a little grease on the splines of the coupler before/during installation - this will help keep premature spline wear down.
Way too many folks put these couplers in dry and hope that splash fluid from either trans or T-case will be enough - it eventually gets there but it’s best to add a little tacky grease that tends to stick around. It won’t harm your trans.
 
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