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ramey winch motor replacement

RootBreaker

RootBreaker

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ok so truck goes in to get re-vinn'ed on sept 21...

anywho... i started working on some little stuff on the truck..

winch hasnt worked in a while.. never used the bugger too..
it is a ramsey patriot 15k.. big sumbit too...

well the solenoids click... so i took it all apart.. and used a wire wheel on all the connectors and copper plates that join the solenoids.. before putting it back together.. the ramsey troubleshooting manual says to jump solenoid and it should click.. well it does... all 4 solenoids do..

so then it says check voltage at armature (sp?).. whatever that is...
well there are 3 wires on the side of the motor.. armature?... so i removed 2 as they were all dirty too.. 3rd one.. well sanap!!!!!!

guess what.. i need a new motor now... grrrrrrrrrrrrr
so gonna sell my big block tmaxx to fund it.. so check the fs section...

well this leads me to.. what is a great place to buy a ramsey winch motor?
part number
458135

summit has it for $192 plus free shipping.. let me know what you think...
 
I had mine rebuilt by the local starter/alternator rebuild guy. Cost about $100, as I recall, and I have faith it'll last forever. (The guy could only charitably be described as "old and crusty", but he knew his stuff :haha: )

-- A
 
dremu said:
I had mine rebuilt by the local starter/alternator rebuild guy. Cost about $100, as I recall, and I have faith it'll last forever. (The guy could only charitably be described as "old and crusty", but he knew his stuff :haha: )

-- A
Click to expand...

well im gonna try and call ramsey first to see what i can get done... but maybe will have to find a local guy too.. with the economy the way it is.. why not..:thumb:
 
What happened? Did the terminal wring off?

If the motor is good otherwise, you can probably get a new terminal put on at any starter place.
Its just a copper bolt with wires soldered or copper welded to the other end.

I have a link to a place that sells starter motors for just about every winch made. If I can find it.
A lot of those companies use the same parts for a lot of their stuff.
Just use different combinations of them and put their names on.
 
Fordum said:
What happened? Did the terminal wring off?

If the motor is good otherwise, you can probably get a new terminal put on at any starter place.
Its just a copper bolt with wires soldered or copper welded to the other end.

I have a link to a place that sells starter motors for just about every winch made. If I can find it.
A lot of those companies use the same parts for a lot of their stuff.
Just use different combinations of them and put their names on.
Click to expand...

well get me the link...

i think the motor had issues... i now have the motor covered from the elements....:whistle:
 
OK, found a couple of links.
You may have to send an e-mail or make a phone call to be sure which it is. But one of these places ought to have a replacement.
You might be able to match it up after you pull off the old motor.
This place has prices.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-3381-winch-motors.aspx

This place has a poor website and no prices. You have to keep hitting next page to see all the motors.
But might have a heavy duty version of what you have now if you want to upgrade, or just get the original one.

http://wms1.com/cgi-bin/category.pl?category=12v_winch&pagenum=30

But, I would seriously consider a local starter shop. Most will at least look at it for free.
My local shop will.
 
on that first link.... i emailed them.. and they said..
Our new aftermarket winch motor will work as a replacement for this motor and comes with a one yr warranty.Our part # is LRW0001. You can click on the link below to view this motor.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3373-...bi-directional-hd-mbj4407-lrw0001-ramsey.aspx


now i have asked a question back as they are pointing me to a 4.5hp motor.. where the ramsey is a 5.5hp motor.. they do sell 6hp motors... i just want to make sure i get the best part to use... waiting back...
 
To tell the truth, I would probably go with the 6HP. Its cheaper and more horsepower, not much, but more, and if you check the Summit site, they are predicting a 9/28 shipping date.

Just make sure that the 1 inch longer motor will fit. Most of the time that is not a problem, but sometimes the winch is mounted inside something.

I've never done business with them, but they have been around for a while, so they should be OK.
 
Fordum said:
To tell the truth, I would probably go with the 6HP. Its cheaper and more horsepower, not much, but more, and if you check the Summit site, they are predicting a 9/28 shipping date.

Just make sure that the 1 inch longer motor will fit. Most of the time that is not a problem, but sometimes the winch is mounted inside something.

I've never done business with them, but they have been around for a while, so they should be OK.
Click to expand...

not the best pic.. but you can see i got room for the bigger motor.. :whistle:
this pic also makes me think the motor is definitely the issue.. i could remove it and try and clean it... but snapped off bolt now too....

winch3.jpg
 
well i gook the motor off.. and it should free spin right?
well it doesnt.. not even with a wrench on the end.. so that is the problem.... hmmm need a new motor.. or if i can figure out how to get the motor apart...
 
Should be fairly simple to take apart. Lots of times there are two bolts on the opposite end from the shaft that go all the way through to the other end like a starter.

There will be some brushes in there that will pop out when you take it apart, and may require a little ingenuity to get back in place, but someone did it, so you can too.
It may be that the ball bearings are just frozen, and you might be able to replace them if the rest is still good.
 
Fordum said:
Should be fairly simple to take apart. Lots of times there are two bolts on the opposite end from the shaft that go all the way through to the other end like a starter.

There will be some brushes in there that will pop out when you take it apart, and may require a little ingenuity to get back in place, but someone did it, so you can too.
It may be that the ball bearings are just frozen, and you might be able to replace them if the rest is still good.
Click to expand...

i popped the back cap off.. yes.. 2 long bolts go through back plate and into casing... with them removed.. pop back cap off.. and brushes are there.. ill remove them... there is a bearing too which does free spin... but the actual winding portion in the casing is what seems seezed...
 
Yep, the laminations of the armature are carbon steel as are the field laminations. Its not uncommon for them to rust together.
If you can get the armature out without damage, you should be able to polish them up.
They don't normally touch, but run real close together, so when they rust, it expands and locks them up.
The different layers of steel are actually insulated from each other with some varnish to control eddy currents.
So, don't grind on them with something rough. You don't want to smear metal from one layer to the other.
Sandpaper, or something like that will do. Just be sure to wash the grit out.
 
Oh, and if you get it going, be sparing of the grease in the bearing next to the brushes. You don't want any to run or sling out and get on the brushes or commutator.
 
I had the same type of problems with my Ramsey after it sat for quite awhile. Pulled the motor part and cleaned the brushes up and it's been fine ever since.
 
so what do i use to clean it up with? fine grit sand paper or what?
how careful do have to be?
any recommendation on what i should do greatly appreciated... not sure what to use on this stuff... but i think this is my problem...

RamseyInner.jpg

RamseyMotor.jpg
 
forgot my bro in law is in the millright union (sp?)
anywho.. he is coming over in a few minutes anyway... i started cleaning the motor up with a wire brush adapter on my drill.. it is really soft... so not harsh like a grinder.. or even sand paper.. ill get it cleaned up somewhat.. i noticed a few harder chunks.. may need sand paper for them...

i need to find out where to get the bolt i snapped..
 
Just be careful to not damage the insulation on the windings in the steel. Those copper busbar things in the slots on the armature.

Same goes for the copper wire in the housing.

It does not have to be polished. Just enough rust removal so that it clears inside and can turn.
Afterwords, you could put a light coat of grease on the steel.
By light, I mean just smear some on, and then wipe it off just leaving a film.
You do not want grease or oil getting on the commutator where the brushes run.

After you get the steel clean, take some really fine sandpaper and clean the commutator.
Just polish it until you see nice shiny copper.
Then, look close at it.
It consists of pieces of copper with insulation between them. The place where the insulation is should be clean so there is nothing to short out between the copper parts.
There also must be a gap where the insulation is.
It has to be below the surface of the copper so it does not hold the brushes off the copper.
When a shop rebuilds a starter, and that surface is badly burned, they put it in a lath and actually turn it down slightly until they get to good metal.
Then, they use a hooklike tool to scrape the insulation down so its below the surface.
I doubt you will have to do that.
 
Looking again, you may have to clean those slots out some, they look filled up. Probably a cutoff hacksaw blade will do good.
When you scrape it, if you turn up a burr on the edge of the copper, just give it a light sanding after to make it smooth.
You can even chuck the armature up in a drill or drill press, and hold the paper against it.
That the easy way, and it makes any scratches in the copper go with the direction of wear so they do not wear the brushes out.
 
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