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RE: Radiators:

vandelay industries

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1) What's the best all-around radiator period, regardless of price?

Can be custom/aftermarket. For example "Be Cool" etc.
i would even be open to considering units with electric fans included.

Money no object.

2) What's the best stock-type radiator?

Money no object.
 
) i don't see a part number listed for a 81-87 c-10 for AC Delco?

2) Griffin has recently had not good reviews.

3) Mishimotos appear to have a good product and virtually all great reviews and the price is reasonable at $320-ish.

4) Be Cool # 60013 and 62013 seem to be high-quality, but i don't think i need to spend $600-700.

5) Carquest (Advance auto parts) #433840 at $133
Not exact fit according to several reviews.

6) Spectra (Pepboys/Autzone) $90-$100
No confidence per the reviews


i am basically looking for dependability, durability and quality, not necessarily flash.
 
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P.S.
i know i said money no object. But to clarify---if i can get quality without spending big $$$, then that would be my aim, but i'm not against spending more $$$ if i can get quality.
 
I had a BeCool unit. It leaked at the tube/header panel just a month or so out of warranty. Didn't have squat for miles.
When I called them, they didn't seem to give a crap. Told me to send it in on my some, or get it fixed locally.
I now have a cheaper Northern. Same cooling and same modifications to install. So I won't ever pay the big $$ ever again.
 
Assuming they are still around, while I've heard of failures, I also know a couple of people that have run Champion radiators without issue for years. Of course, they are not a drop in.

It's beginning to sound like radiators are the new batteries. No matter how much you pay, there is no guarantee that they are quality. To echo the comment above about Mishimoto though, I heard someone in the store the other day mentioning how good their Mishimoto radiator had been, so maybe they are quality?
 
6.2 radiator. Done dot com and works better than any aftermarket radiator you can come up with.
 
6.2 radiator. Done dot com and works better than any aftermarket radiator you can come up with.

A good Copper/Brass 6.2 radiator is hard to beat .

Copper/brass Raditors are the most efficient, by a long shot . The only reason they have gone to aluminum is weight and price.
 
Well, to be the devils advocate here, I have warrantied three mishimoto radiators this year alone.

They were Ford 6.4l diesel application.
 
So radiators ARE a crap shoot lol.

Just like batteries, unless it happens to you, and you know the exact circumstances of failure, it's often hard to believe that all the problems you hear are just due to shoddy construction. Unfortunately, with as many failures as we hear and read about, it seems unlikely it's user-error every time.

I don't know the mishimoto construction, but I don't understand how every OEM radiator I know of, is made of aluminum/plastic, and seem to last decades. Yet you buy an aftermarket of the same construction (or theoretically better), and it fails in short order.

I had considered trying to crimp the one that failed a bit more, just to see if I could get it to stop leaking, but I didn't want them to say I was the one that screwed it up. I need to look at the OEM radiators and see if they are doing something differently with the crimps. Or perhaps it's just that larger radiators are less suited to this type of construction vs. the smaller radiators? Aluminum certainly doesn't seem like a very good material to crimp something in place with (You are advised not to use AL fuel lines on vehicles due to vibration for instance) maybe the additional unsupported height on these just doesn't work well if the tanks aren't sturdy enough.
 
Poor body mount and frame to core support flexing are the mishimoto failures. We also have tons of flex and we just might be fooked.
 
So radiators ARE a crap shoot lol.

Aluminum certainly doesn't seem like a very good material to crimp something in place with .
I believe yes , it is somewhat of a crap shoot. I say this gauged on what I have seen with factory and replacement stuff in my personal trucks, and the mixers at work.
And in those, with aluminum cores, the plastic tanks have a steel flange strip holding them.
 
Poor body mount and frame to core support flexing are the mishimoto failures. We also have tons of flex and we just might be fooked.

You certainly can't fault the radiator for those sorts of failures. Mine never left the driveway however. Sitting on poly motor mounts, it's not like the radiator hoses were imparting a lot of load to the tanks as the motor moved around, either. Which when dealing with plastic, I can see being a potential issue.

On our trucks, shoddy tolerances due to GM quality at the time, and/or abuse of the components (mounting brackets, cushions, etc) as the trucks have aged are also likely to be an issue. I try to pay attention to that stuff as I put my truck together for the hundredth time, and I didn't notice anything on assembly, but it's nearly impossible to know if the tank was contacting the core support, the setup doesn't lend itself to close inspection when assembled. But I do have one of those borescope-type cameras...
 
1) Carquest from Advance auto "seems" ok. i mean none of the reviews said it was crap........ $133

2) Champion #166-EC716 seems ok. $184
 
My Spectra cu730 from five years ago is GREAT. Plastic tank and al fins. No problems cooling my 454. Made in Canada.
I bought another one this summer for a 2nd truck....now made in China. I haven't used it yet. So FYI about origin.

Same thing with the heater core...was made in Canada 5yrs ago...now China. Bought it with above rad.
 
Yep, made in China but we see none of the savings :(

The last 2 Spectre radiators I purchased (over the last 8 months) were still Canada. They went into both trucks to replace Griffin radiator.

My vote is for something easily replaceable, so when it craps out on you in the middle of nowhere, you can grab another without worrying about different hoses or mounts. If they are all going to fail, mine as well be ready to replace it.
 
Too bad you just can't go out and by an all steel 4-core Modine radiator anymore like you used to be able to for an old square body GM truck. I used to by those for my GM trucks all the time back in the day, and they where tough as nails.
 
Honestly for the cost of the champion, I think they are a better bet than the other all aluminum radiators. Pain to mount (comparatively) and not easy to replace if it fails, but the aftermarket plastic/Al radiators are generally junk, and if you can avoid the inevitable failure they will have by paying a bit more for the champion, it's probably a better bet, which is all you do anymore with aftermarket parts anyway. They can fail, some will, but at least you aren't paying 500 for a radiator that fails, and it's more likely to last than the plastic/Al ones, as long as the mounting issues don't bother you
 

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