What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Realistic hp gains by headers

Is there a link for the headers TBIchips is selling?

I wouldn't worry about wrapping them, absolutely no point IMO. Fuel injection doesn't worry about things like heat. :)
 
dyeager535 said:
Is there a link for the headers TBIchips is selling?

I wouldn't worry about wrapping them, absolutely no point IMO. Fuel injection doesn't worry about things like heat. :)
Click to expand...
They were a set he bought for a project and then didn't end up using. I purchased them at a discount. I'll snap a photo of them when they get here they are not the full length headers.

Since they are stainless my thoughts are they should not rust if wrapped. I'll probably throw them on without wrapping them and see how hot things get. If its not to bad I'll leave the wrap off. I sure hope this is enough to allow me to shift into 3rd while towing the boat uphill. I'm doubtful but hopeful :D

I cant say enough about how helpful Brian is I would purchase from him again anytime. He also diagnosed a clogged cat that I had and even pointed me to a replacement cat that was only $40. I'm also kinda skeptical on how much a chip can help. There is such a limited number of knobs you can turn on these motors. But from someone that is so helpful I had to contribute something.

On a side not I went wheeling in the mud last weekend it was a blast other then scratching the hell out of the blazer. Time for a new paint job now LOL. It did fairly well other then stopping. Damn tank slid right down the muddy embankment. A buddy of mine is a painter and is going to recommend a clear coat that is supposedly really tough. Anyone else have experience with a particular paint that is really durable?
 
Well, stainless will still corrode, I'm not sure to what degree and under what conditions. Since these engine bays have such a huge opening underneath, when moving the extra heat the headers will shed is typically not going to be an issue.

Header wrap should actually help make power, but I doubt the gains are huge.
 
Ceremic coated is the best option. Keeps the heat in the headers and out the exhaust. Does not rust and looks good.
 
I have yet to see a coating that holds up over time, especially compared to stainless.

Don't get me wrong, the internal coating numbers (heat reduction) are off the chart, but it's still a coating. I'd love to see some stainless, internally coated headers, but only if the coating lasted as long as the headers themselves.
 
i have had flowteck headers for about 10 years.still workin alright.only had fitment issues down at the shackle.i reversed the shackle bolt and have about an inch inbetween them.does not hit now.heat is not that bad under the hood.i wouldnt worry about that at all.mine gave a definite seat of the pants difference when i changed them from stock manifolds.most headers say 15 to 30 hp difference,and i definitely can say i felt a good difference in performance
 
Im running the Dynomax ceramic coated headers on mine for 14 months now . they arent as shiny as they once were , but havent rusted nor blue'd at all
 
I just got a pair of Hedman Ceramic Coated long tubes for $285. They look great and the fit bueno, no rubbing or hitting on anything
 
These are the headers I purchased from Brian at TBI chips for $140.

IMG_6123.jpg
 
pismorat said:
Dang...goodluck getting to the spark plugs! That is my big deal, getting to my angled plugs with std. plug type headers. Hope they work(ed) out.
Click to expand...
Well I hope the spark plugs are not that hard to get to otherwise I'll throw them on ebay.
 
Anyone know what a decent price is to get a muffler shop to create new pipes from the header to collector? I'm guessing altogether maybe 6 feet of tubing.

I went ahead and bought a 2-1 collector from Jegs for $50 because the muffler shop wanted $160 to build a fricken collector. How do these crooks stay in business?
 
Headers and Air conditioning

So I installed a set of headers and my 87 truck has air conditioning. What are you guys doing to mount the air conditioning bracket?

I was only able to get one bolt into the bracket that goes into the exhaust mainfold.
 
If it's the drivers side first one or two bolts on the header to head flange, run spacers.

Local hardware store had round "spacers", I tacked either end (they had a seam) and used that. Washers could be used to "fine tune" the spacing.
 
dyeager535 said:
If it's the drivers side first one or two bolts on the header to head flange, run spacers.

Local hardware store had round "spacers", I tacked either end (they had a seam) and used that. Washers could be used to "fine tune" the spacing.
Click to expand...

Yes I did that for one of the bolts I bought a 1.5 inch steel coller that worked great for a spacer. This was the bolt nearest the radiator. Now the second bolt I could not get a bolt into because the header bent right in front of where the bolt should go. So I just stuck the normal header bolt in and I am hoping all the other bolts on that bracket are enough and I don't rip it off.
 
So after getting these headers on I can say they are more hasle then they are worth. I ended up paying $150 for a muffler shop to weld on a new flowmaster y-pipe and creat tubes to go up to the headers. (not bad considering most places wanted $300-600.)

My butt dyno tells me I gained 0hp. The chip I got from Brian at TBI chips added more bang for the buck with just the stock manifolds. I can't tell any difference between now and when I installed the headers. I'm going to have to figure something out for that AC bracket.

The real test will be this summer when I start towing my boat I will know instantly if I gained any power. I'm kinda hoping my motor blows up so I have an excuse to get a 400 or build a 383 for it. I wish I would have done that from the start instead of rebuilding this 350. Had I known then what I know now there would be no question what I would do.
 
I hear you. I kind of wish my 350 would start leaking profusely or something, so I have an excuse to throw the Vortec block in place, and end up where I should have started. :(

Sucks about the headers being a pain. As I've said many times, there really is no excuse for problems like this, except lack of concern for customers by the manufacturers. There is more than enough room in these trucks, there shouldn't be a pair of headers out there that won't fit every truck made between 1973 and 1987 (and of course R/V to 1991)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom