thats how they all start. then you get the snowball efectThat bad eh? IF I have to go that route I guess I'll have to scrounge up a D60, but I really really don't wanna have to go that far. This whole thing was just supposed to be an engine swap!
CK5
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really, really, REALLY stuck ball joints!
- Thread starter Metalhead47
- Start date
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Balljoint seperator
Load the pin as much as you can and then smack the **** out of the inner-c perpendicular to the pin (sideways). Make sure you oil those threads though, I loaned mine to a buddy and he broke it cuz he's a bonehead. I have one from NAPA that looks identical to the one in the picture (believe it's an OTC or PT brand, was like $25), it fits Dana 44s very well and occasionally works well as a pitman arm puller.
Acetone+ATF makes for a good penetrating oil. Cut the boot off so it's out of your way and gravity can help you.
Pickle fork might just separate the pin from the socket...they're handy at junkyards but sometimes they will do more demo work than you really want them to.
If you have a good table, you can lay the housing on jackstands on the table and then ratchet strap the housing down to the table, makes everything really solid.
Load the pin as much as you can and then smack the **** out of the inner-c perpendicular to the pin (sideways). Make sure you oil those threads though, I loaned mine to a buddy and he broke it cuz he's a bonehead. I have one from NAPA that looks identical to the one in the picture (believe it's an OTC or PT brand, was like $25), it fits Dana 44s very well and occasionally works well as a pitman arm puller.
Acetone+ATF makes for a good penetrating oil. Cut the boot off so it's out of your way and gravity can help you.
Pickle fork might just separate the pin from the socket...they're handy at junkyards but sometimes they will do more demo work than you really want them to.
If you have a good table, you can lay the housing on jackstands on the table and then ratchet strap the housing down to the table, makes everything really solid.
Doc Feel Good
1/2 ton status
You may have to drill the crap out of the ball joint. Its slow but if u make it look like cheese.. Eventually it will come out... big bits and time when all else fails...
Hit around the perimeter on the C with the ball end of a ballpein hammer and it will fall out. If you were closer i'd have it out in about 10 seconds.
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
Balljoint seperator
Load the pin as much as you can and then smack the **** out of the inner-c perpendicular to the pin (sideways). Make sure you oil those threads though, I loaned mine to a buddy and he broke it cuz he's a bonehead. I have one from NAPA that looks identical to the one in the picture (believe it's an OTC or PT brand, was like $25), it fits Dana 44s very well and occasionally works well as a pitman arm puller.
Acetone+ATF makes for a good penetrating oil. Cut the boot off so it's out of your way and gravity can help you.
Pickle fork might just separate the pin from the socket...they're handy at junkyards but sometimes they will do more demo work than you really want them to.
If you have a good table, you can lay the housing on jackstands on the table and then ratchet strap the housing down to the table, makes everything really solid.
Ah, now THAT thing looks promising... and my google-fu reveals Harbor Freight should have a cheap one too...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Ok see I thought thats what you were saying but I'm sitting here going "Wait its pressed into the knuckle not the C though..."
What sort of torch/welder access do you have?
I would take a tig torch, turn it all the way up and just start running it up and down the threads and taper until the thing is red ****ing hot. Then let it cool, quenching after you heat something is gonna crack your knuckle C long before that BJ taper.
If you dont have a TIG which no offense but based on the fact that you were using a MAPP torch I'm gonna assume you dont, you could try the same process with a mig on high. Only issue there is you will definitely add material and have to cut or grind it once it busts loose.
If that doesnt work I would start drilling. A 1/8 hole can make a huge difference when somethings frozen.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
put it back together and let a shop deal with it
Get the puller like in post #24 ($10 at autozone) and put gobbs of pressure on it. Then use the ball peen hammer mentioned by another member and tap the sides of the knuckle around it. It will pop out.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I'd be willing to bet that whoever did your balljoints didnt torque them properly and the balljoint stud spun and locked to the C.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Hit around the perimeter on the C with the ball end of a ballpein hammer and it will fall out. If you were closer i'd have it out in about 10 seconds.
x2. Sense i learned that trick, I havent had to use a picle fork, ball joint separator or anything. Just strategic whacks with the hammer and they just fall out.
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
Heh, don't even have a proper MAPP torch, all I have is propane. No tig welder either. Trying what you said with my MIG sounds like more trouble than it's worth. If it comes to that I'll see if I can rent an acetylene torch.
This is sounding like the best option so far. I'll have to give that a try first this weekend.
That would be some guy at the Chevy plant in Flint, MI then
. I don't think these have EVER been done by the looks of them.
by the looks of it you havent hit the threaded section much with a big hammer.
if you havent HIT that sucker good and hard. should come flyin right out of there.
and how di you get the ball joint out of the nuckle and still in the inner "c" ?
if you havent HIT that sucker good and hard. should come flyin right out of there.
and how di you get the ball joint out of the nuckle and still in the inner "c" ?
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
Got the top joint out easy enough, just took an air hammer to the stud and the threaded preload thingy turned it self right out from the vibrations (in two peices). That got the top loose, pulled the snap ring off the bottom of the lower joint just trying to figure it out, flipped the axle over & hammered on the back of the balljoint and eventually the knuckle just pushed up & out. You can't really tell from the pic, the top of the knuckle is all beat to hell from where I was pounding the shirt out of it while it was still on there, with the snap ring, sans top joint. Kinda hard to get a hammer inside the C directly. Tried the airhammer too.
owenst7
1/2 ton status
I have one of these also. Both tools work very well and having both is nice because usually only one will fit. The one above that looks like a small pitman puller is probably the more durable one. Neither is very expensive, and they've fit well for me on my IFS truck, jeeps, a samurai, some Toyta TREs, and a bunch of random vehicles at junk yards.
I'd be careful if you're going to use a hammer on the threaded pin. If they don't come out of the first couple whacks, they usually mushroom and you'll then have to cut the bottom off to get it all the way out. Threading on the castle nut upside down is usually a good idea if you're taking that route. It will stop the threads from expanding. You can still bend it sideways though.
ya as many years as i have been wrenchin i hit 2-3 good wacks on the side if reusing or right in the head/stud thay drop right out .
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
OK so I guess you guys were right all along. Just for shirts & googles I threw some shoes on & went back out there & beat along the edge of the C with a ball peen... couple good blows with the 4lber and the popped right out. And yeah, they been in there a whiiiile. I don't think balljoints are supposed to move like that. Thanx guys!
Too bad tho, I was just starting to warm up to the idea of a D60
DONT BE AFRAID HIT IT LIKE A MAN !
told ha few good man hit and bam drop right out.
now you have learned the trick you dont need a pickle fork for any of them again. and same trick for tie rod ends. just not as hard on the end of the knuckle .
your 25 bucks at ck5 worked like a charm. now the rest of your info here will be free of charge.
told ha few good man hit and bam drop right out.
now you have learned the trick you dont need a pickle fork for any of them again. and same trick for tie rod ends. just not as hard on the end of the knuckle .
your 25 bucks at ck5 worked like a charm. now the rest of your info here will be free of charge.
