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Rear Dic Brakes

gassman

1/2 ton status
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Jul 12, 2000
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Location
Quincy Cailf, Plumas County
Ok, ordered the complete kit to convert a 14 bolt rear end today from TSM. Question to you all is should I replace the master cylinder with a high volume one or will the stock one work alright. Any thoughts. Thanks for any help there.
 
I always thought a 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder was needed with 4 wheel disc's

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<font color=green>BobK<font color=green>
 
I think you just wasted your money. Send me the kit when you get it and I'll dispose of it for you. LOL!
Rear disks sounds pretty cool. That's something I've always wanted but I'm gonna wait til I can find a Dana60.
 
How much did the kit cost you? And what does it include? I would think you would want the 4 disk master. Did you ask TSM what they recommend. Tell them you already have both master cylinders so they don't tell you something just to make a sale.

[image]http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1328774&a=9975627&p=33244094[/image]
 
Totally depends on the rear calipers used. Which ones will you be using? I had to change out to a master for a 4 wheel disc system to make my brakes work right, but I always change masters when changing a car from disc/drum to all disc. Sometimes it's a hassle to compute the master volume/spring ratios, proportioning valve rate, and caliper volume ratios in order to get a good balance.
 
I run a 1 ton master on mine, with Dana 60 front and Eldorado rear calipers. I also use an adjustable proportioning valve. Works great. Before the 60, I had a D44 front and used a 3/4 ton master.

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
<font color=blue>I have the TSM disks with Eldorado calipers on my 14 bolt with the stock m/c. Inspection might not be a problem for me soon so I might go to stock front calipers for the rear. When I do this I'l lput in a Camaro m/c. I've heard of a few people using master clynders from rear disk equiped IROCs I just forget the years.</font color=blue>

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Sorry for the late reply guy's was gone Sat. Skip at T.S.M didn't say anything about having to change out the Master and I didn't think to ask. Just been doing a search on the forms and notice that most everyone have been changing their Masters. Steve don't know what calipers come with their kit but I can ask. I order the complete kit for a 14 bolt. No E-brake. 1HIHUM the complete kit with no e-brake cost me 450.00 comes with calipers ( e-brake or not) E-brake calipers were 300.00 more, rotors, pads,wheel studs,backing plates, proportioning valve, braided steel brake lines and fittings. Think's thats it. I guest I'll make the call to skip and ask. Thanks for all the information everyone.
 
Take a look at the setup I used on my Blazer's brakes. Specs are at my web site:

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1963/SteveCars.html>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1963/SteveCars.html</A>

Basically, I used a long-throw/high-assist booster, a master cylinder and proportioning valve from a '77-'78 Cadillac Seville, and '79-'85 Eldorado/'80-'85 Seville calipers. Lift on the truck might require a little less rear brake bias, so maybe go with the '79-'85 Eldorado proportionoing valve if you have lift.
 
I put rear disc brakes on a dana 60 rear axle under my 72 blazer with 44's. I had a front dana 44 axle i used the backing plate and calipers. I bought new calipers and turned those in for core charge. I had to cut and grind the backing plate it took about 1 hour per side. I bought the roters from a local auto store i used a six lug off a 99 tahoe 4x4 the cost was about $60.00 each.I also switched out the master cylinder with a corvette master cylinder. So if you are one of those guy's that like to do it your self this is the way to go. My next thing is to put in a adjustable proportioning valve.
Now i can lock them up if i had to. 1 FN HI K5
 
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