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Rear Disc, Worth it?

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fixmy59bug

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Ok, I am at the point where I need new brakes on my suburban. I have been doing some research on rear disc brake conversions and it seems some people think they are not worth it because (on the trucks) the rear end is too light. Also it seems there is a need for a proportioning valve.

On the suburban, the light rear end is not as much of a problem (I would guess). Also, this rig is STRICTLY my tow rig (sometimes as much as 7000 lbs). Which means there is more weight pushing down on the rear.

I have found a rear disc crake conversion kit on Ebay for $249 shipped. It appears it includes everything needed for the job including calipers, pads, new brake lines, rotors, brackets, seals, caliper pins and anti rattle shims. Of course for that price the calipers are not of the Parking Brake variety. But since my 14bff swap, my parking brake has not worked, so I am not concerned.

Then I can get all the necessary front brake parts for about $150 (rotors, pads, bearings and seals) and have all new brakes.

My main worry is if the rear kit is even worth the (little) hassle. I know it is cheaper than buying new drums, shoes, hardware, etc.

What say ye?
 
I've never looked back since doing the rear disc swap. My brakes work about 5 times better than when stock.
 
That right there is all I need to know. The last time I has to do some hard braking when I was fully loaded, the pucker factor was on overdrive.

It doen't help that (I am sure) the rear brakes are inoperable right now anyways. On a vehicle such as this, is a proportioning valve necessary? Or, I have read somewhere on here that I could use a master cylinder from 99 3500 with rear discs and no need for that valve. Is that true as well?
 
Just do the rear disc and leave your existing master cylinder and proportioning valve alone. I did not change either item and the brakes work flawlessly.
 
Personally I use my parking brake too much to go without it.
It sounds like you may be close to $400 to convert to discs.

Maybe you could find a newer 14ff with factory discs on it for that price?
 
Goose said:
Personally I use my parking brake too much to go without it.
It sounds like you may be close to $400 to convert to discs.

Maybe you could find a newer 14ff with factory discs on it for that price?
Click to expand...

No, Actually you might want to re-read my original post. The disc brake conversion kit on Ebay is $295 shipped. And that incudes everything necessary to do the swap.

The $150 I mentioned later in the thread is to relace everything on the front axle.

If I wanted the PARKING brake (which I don't) there is a kit for $495.

Edit: ok, once again my brain has gotten ahead of my fingers and I started butchering words.
 
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Hey, No problem. So I guess the general consensus is that I just need to buy the kit.

Then (as I read on other threads) I will take it to a few parking lots (and dirt roads) and rail on the brakes and see what happens.

Thanks everyone's help. I will let you all know how it goes.
 
my old truck with 1tons and 38 swampers would lock all 4 up at 45-50 with no problem afterwords and about slam you in the dash if hit to hard. that to me is perfect. no more real panick stops for me.
 
This just keeps getting better and better. I would love to be able to lock up all 4 rippin down the road. That would scare the sh*t out of everyone around! HAHAHAHAHA.

The rear disc kit has been ordered. I feel like a kid on christmas eve now. I can't wait to get this stuff.
 
Definately do the swap. No need to change anything not on the axle. Get everything yourself. I did mine for about $250 including new calipers and pads on the front.

edit: about 30 seconds too slow. :doah:
 
I just dropped $450 on this thing.

$250 for the rear disc kit shipped and while I am at it, I may as well make a day of brakes and dropped an additional $200 on the front brakes (rotors, severe duty pads, bearings and seals).

My dad is taking the burban towing next month with 8000 lbs lugging behind him. I would hate for him to have to experience the current pucker factor with that much weight behind him.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I've never looked back since doing the rear disc swap. My brakes work about 5 times better than when stock.
Click to expand...

X2!! First drive after installing them, I braked like I normally did with rear drums and man, it stopped on a dime.... damn seat belt nearly choked me :D

I don't have to press as hard on the pedal now.
 
Is there already a DIY on the installation of this kit?

If so I will find it and use it (although it should be straight forward.

If not I will make one when I install my kit and will (hopefully) become a contributing member.
 
remember when removing the hubs on the rear, if you need to change out the bearings. the outer bearing is held it by a snap-ring inside the back of the hub. the ring has to come out and then you pound the bearing through to the back of the hub. inspect the bearings and the studs while you have it apart, its easier to change them out now, rather than pulling it all apart.

I'm not sure what kit your getting, but the short flex lines that i used on my truck are from a 1968 chevy bell air. They are for a metric banjo bolt, but you can ream it out slightly to (7/16) if you have the sae banjo bolts in the caliper.
 
Thank you for information on the bearing replacement. That I did not know.

Here is the link to the kit I bought. It appears to include all parts necessary for the swap including lines, hardware, etc. He several more kits available. When I get the kit, I will post full pictures and a review on the kit.

Edit: D'Oh. I forgot the link to the rear disc kit I bought.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/14-BOLT-DISK-BRAKE-CONVERSION-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQitemZ120134914999QQihZ002QQcategoryZ42605QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
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Some info for you and anyone else doing a rear disc swap. The rotors are not all made the same. The area where the wheel stud head will sit against the rotor is sometimes too small for the head of the stud. The best cure is to machine the heads of the studs so that they are 1" in diameter this way they will fit within the recess of the rotor.
 
I came across this problem with the stud heads not seating fully. I went ahead and ground a little off the edges to make it fit. Grinding off only one side of the stud head would work fine. They don't turn on me when I tighten my lugs. Glad you brought this up for the others to see.
 
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