The reason i say modify the studs is in case you ever need to change a rotor you don't have to keep modifying rotors.
CK5
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Rear Disc, Worth it?
- Thread starter fixmy59bug
- Start date
Gotcha 
nova
1/2 ton status
disc are great.
fixmy59bug
Registered Member
Latest Update.
It only took 5 days from date of payment to when I received the kit. Not bad for a 71 pound box going from Tennessee to So Cal. Once I received the box I immediately tore it open and was pleasantly surprised by the packaging. All parts were properly protected and this kit included everything necessary to do the swap. Calipers, rotors, caliper brackets, All hardware (bolts, spacers, lock washers)as well as brake hoses, banjo bolts, and copper washers. Like I said, Everything.
This friday, I will be installing this kit and be doing a full write up for your benefit. Hopefully I will have less trouble with the rear than I did with the front. =^(
It only took 5 days from date of payment to when I received the kit. Not bad for a 71 pound box going from Tennessee to So Cal. Once I received the box I immediately tore it open and was pleasantly surprised by the packaging. All parts were properly protected and this kit included everything necessary to do the swap. Calipers, rotors, caliper brackets, All hardware (bolts, spacers, lock washers)as well as brake hoses, banjo bolts, and copper washers. Like I said, Everything.
This friday, I will be installing this kit and be doing a full write up for your benefit. Hopefully I will have less trouble with the rear than I did with the front. =^(
BKinzey
1/2 ton status
Great! Remember!
Pics Pics Pics
Pics Pics Pics
fixmy59bug
Registered Member
Of course, I will take pics when I do the install and will remember to get pics of all parts that are in the kit.
Downlo830
Registered Member
So how did the install go? Did you do a write-up?
I bought the kit and did the install, but the brakes are terrible right now. i have a 91 burb and am trying to find out what i should do know. Any help please?!?!
Thanx, Ross
I bought the kit and did the install, but the brakes are terrible right now. i have a 91 burb and am trying to find out what i should do know. Any help please?!?!
Thanx, Ross
fixmy59bug
Registered Member
Oops, I forgot the write up. I did the swap and everything went great. The only problem that I had was that the "pressure differential" switch inside the proportioning valve tripped. Meaning my brake light in the dash was stuck on and I had no way of bleeding the rear brakes. I took it to my local grease monkeys and let their bolt rounders power bleed the system.
After that, it stops perfect. I took it out and for approx 15 minutes I worked the brakes to properly bed them in. After they were set, I let them properly cool a bit then took it to a dirt field. I wasn't sure if the rear brakes were working properly so I knew if I took it to a field and stood on the brakes, the rear should lock up at some point.
Well, only after nailing the brakes about 7/8 of the way to the floor did the rears lock up in dirt and only for about 5 feet. So, unless I ever have to panic stop in the dirt while trying to avoid a dog 3 feet in front of me, I should be Ok.
But back to the swap. The only problem I ran into was that I destroyed 2 inner seals for the hubs. I just couldn't get the damn things to go in straight. The 3rd went in fine, so I was set. I replaced all bearings, races, and seals. This kit is VERY well put together. It uses the proper rotors so I did not need to trim any lugs. Everything pressed together just fine. The only problems I did have are that, 1) a few of the lugs are loose in the hubs and will be dealt with soon, But the lug bolts hold the studs in just fine, and 2) it doesn't seem like the studs were quite long enough to do an adequate job. The lugs are holding onto the studs by about, maybe, 6 threads.
Do I need longer studs for this? I also have pictures to show the problem I am having. This weekend I will post the pictures I promise.
But to answer your question Downlo, I had no major problems.
Did you get the system properly bled? I do not know if anything in the system is different on my 89 vs your 91. Are you 2wd or 4wd? What rear axle?
Hopefully someone else on here will have more insight.
After that, it stops perfect. I took it out and for approx 15 minutes I worked the brakes to properly bed them in. After they were set, I let them properly cool a bit then took it to a dirt field. I wasn't sure if the rear brakes were working properly so I knew if I took it to a field and stood on the brakes, the rear should lock up at some point.
Well, only after nailing the brakes about 7/8 of the way to the floor did the rears lock up in dirt and only for about 5 feet. So, unless I ever have to panic stop in the dirt while trying to avoid a dog 3 feet in front of me, I should be Ok.
But back to the swap. The only problem I ran into was that I destroyed 2 inner seals for the hubs. I just couldn't get the damn things to go in straight. The 3rd went in fine, so I was set. I replaced all bearings, races, and seals. This kit is VERY well put together. It uses the proper rotors so I did not need to trim any lugs. Everything pressed together just fine. The only problems I did have are that, 1) a few of the lugs are loose in the hubs and will be dealt with soon, But the lug bolts hold the studs in just fine, and 2) it doesn't seem like the studs were quite long enough to do an adequate job. The lugs are holding onto the studs by about, maybe, 6 threads.
Do I need longer studs for this? I also have pictures to show the problem I am having. This weekend I will post the pictures I promise.
But to answer your question Downlo, I had no major problems.
Did you get the system properly bled? I do not know if anything in the system is different on my 89 vs your 91. Are you 2wd or 4wd? What rear axle?
Hopefully someone else on here will have more insight.
Post pics of the rear side of the rotors mounted to the hubs. From what you said about the studs being to short you need to machine the stud heads. This is exactly what would happen if they needed to be machined but weren't.
The issues you may run into are that the lug nuts will strip the threads, or they won't stay tight.
I had this happen of all places, on the 10 bolt differential cover. Bolts that were maybe 1/8" too short would always loosen up over time. Amazing that little extra thread engagement did the trick. I'd be a bit nervous if all the threads on the lug nut aren't engaged on the stud.
Problem is, if it works for awhile (like one of my front u-bolts that is a hair short) you tend to forget about it, or think it will work forever. I forgot to second check my lug nuts on one wheel on my truck, one time. Took about 5 miles before it got bad enough for me to pull over, to find the lugs had wallowed out the holes in the rim. If they get loose enough, and/or shear, you may not have enough warning if you are going 60-70MPH, I was going maybe 50.
That's my take on it anyways. I'd be more worried about my wheel coming off and going through someones windshield than for my own safety, but too short wheel studs are something I'd consider (again, this is my opinion, I'm not preaching, just looking at the situation from a couple of angles) unacceptable for everyones safety.
I had this happen of all places, on the 10 bolt differential cover. Bolts that were maybe 1/8" too short would always loosen up over time. Amazing that little extra thread engagement did the trick. I'd be a bit nervous if all the threads on the lug nut aren't engaged on the stud.
Problem is, if it works for awhile (like one of my front u-bolts that is a hair short) you tend to forget about it, or think it will work forever. I forgot to second check my lug nuts on one wheel on my truck, one time. Took about 5 miles before it got bad enough for me to pull over, to find the lugs had wallowed out the holes in the rim. If they get loose enough, and/or shear, you may not have enough warning if you are going 60-70MPH, I was going maybe 50.
That's my take on it anyways. I'd be more worried about my wheel coming off and going through someones windshield than for my own safety, but too short wheel studs are something I'd consider (again, this is my opinion, I'm not preaching, just looking at the situation from a couple of angles) unacceptable for everyones safety.
The rule for any thread engagement is that the thread needs to be threaded in at least the diameter of the bolt.
Downlo830
Registered Member
Thanx for the followup. Im not sure what my prob is? I have not completely bled the system yet, i bought a power bleeder but the darn thing is having probloems sealing on the plastic resivour on my mc.
You said that the back would not bleed if the brake light was on?? my brake light on my dash is on but i was able to start bleeding the back, it just seemed to take forever. Are you using a stock disk/drum mc? Did you customize the prop valve at all or did it just correct itself once you powerbled it?
I know my 91 has the rear wheel anti lock system but supposedly it should work out better with it. Everybody on here keeps saying that they have a problem with ther back brakes locking up to fast, but my backs are barely working?!? Hopefully its just cuz i havnt flushed the lines out completely yet.
You said that the back would not bleed if the brake light was on?? my brake light on my dash is on but i was able to start bleeding the back, it just seemed to take forever. Are you using a stock disk/drum mc? Did you customize the prop valve at all or did it just correct itself once you powerbled it?
I know my 91 has the rear wheel anti lock system but supposedly it should work out better with it. Everybody on here keeps saying that they have a problem with ther back brakes locking up to fast, but my backs are barely working?!? Hopefully its just cuz i havnt flushed the lines out completely yet.
Just a WAG, but is that almost exactly how much threads are on a lug nut? Now that I think about it, most (all?) open ended lug nuts I've seen are only threaded partially, and just by looking at it, appear that it's about the same amount of threads as stud diameter.
