CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rear end sagging

yep only the brand of leaf spring will have the diffrence basicly.

the # system is a std . but not 100%

and say you had the 22-403 leafs in your rig. and then you broke the main leaf and wanted a new one. thats easy also.

your new # to order would be 22-403-1

22 = chevy

403 = leaf pack id info

1 = main leaf or no.1 leaf in the pack.

thay made it stupid simple WAAAAAAY back in the day. same no. system since almost cars/trucks started if i recall. we had some realy olllld stock in the shop i was in.
 
Realize that the front wheel opening is higher (taller) than the rear.

Really, if you want to check properly, get on a level surface, and measure to the body line crease that runs flat down the side of the whole truck to the ground. Front and rear should be the same.

But then again, who cares what it measures if it looks saggy to you....measurements don't have to be perfect, as long as you think it looks good/level.

Your call.

X2 here!! My Burb looks saggy in the rear but is pretty much level....it's the wheel well that makes it look that way. I got some add-a-leafs by Rancho to add a little to the rear though when I put the 4" lift on Saturday........I'll see how much that raises the rear and what it looks like then!
 
Mine actually sags. Looking at a set from Eaton Detroit Spring. Good, stuff.
 
if your buying off the shelf stock replacment springs there is only less than a dozen spring makers out there. so better off just keepin the money local unless you want stuff like alcan or denver springs.
 
Hey Chief, I have the front and rear springs from a 86 K20 here in East TN if you want to come get them, just bring me some beer:popcorn:
 
I would send this outfit an E-Mail and get a quote. Won't cost anything.
http://www.springsnthings.com/

They had a new set for the front of my 250 that was less than half what anybody else wanted.
In fact, I called and asked if it was for one spring or two.

I figured that at that price, I would get what I paid for, but its been about 5 years now, and they are holding up fine.
 
Personally I think the perfect stance is to split the difference between the bodyline being level and wheel openings being level. At least on a K5. The difference in the wheel openings is 2" - at least on the 80's sheetmetal. For a pickup, I would almost set the wheel openings the same and have the bodyline 2" higher in the rear.
 
Top Bottom