Rear shock mount location....and crack in frame

[matkes77]

Hey guys,

I know I should get some pics of the problem, but haven't done it yet.

I recently bought a '74 and found the RR shock hanging loose and a worn out hole in the frame where it looks like it previously mounted. There is now a crack starting at the top of the hole and then up and over the top part of the "C" channel that makes up the frame. When I look at the LR shock mount, there is an actual bracket mounted on top of the frame that the shock bolts to.

Does any one have a picture of how my shock should mount?

What would be the best inexpensive and safe way to repair the frame? I don't own a welder yet and wouldn't feel comfortable to try and fix myself anyway.

Any help would much appreciated. I will try to post some pics soon, but don't have internet at the house.

Thanks K5 buddies........

 

[BGKYK5]

Does it look kinda like this?

Your shock was probably mounted correctly. The left shock does have a bracket, but the right just goes through the frame.

To properly fix it you need to drill a small "stop" hole at the end of the crack, grind out the crack in a "V" shape and weld it up, then weld or bolt the shock mounting stud back in.

I just used Kert's shock inboarding kit.

 

[dyeager535]

While the problem takes forever to manifest (how many years old are our rigs now? lol) the proper fix IMO is to weld the stud in this place.

The bracket on the other side is the same way. As soon as the stud gets the slightest play in it, every time the axle moves upwards, it hammers the mount/hole. Welding the stud in place should stop that from ever happening again.

 

[imiceman44]

While the problem takes forever to manifest (how many years old are our rigs now? lol) the proper fix IMO is to weld the stud in this place.

The bracket on the other side is the same way. As soon as the stud gets the slightest play in it, every time the axle moves upwards, it hammers the mount/hole. Welding the stud in place should stop that from ever happening again.

And while you are at it I would reinforce that area, I had the same on my 76 and after welding it I put a pieces of sheet metal on top and welded it to make the area a little thicker.
And I figured it lasted from 1976 to 2006 the first time it should last a few years this time, I ended up scrapping it 2 years later.

 

[matkes77]

what does the stud look like exactly? is it just a nut or does it fit into the hole in the frame? I tried to post pics, but they are too large so I have to figure something else out

 

[Chevy305]

I just repaired the very same crack last weekend. I drilled a relief hole at the end of the cracks, ground them out, then welded it all up. Then I welded in a washer on bolth sides of the hole to re-inforce it. I didnt weld the stud in place because I figured I didnt need to.

 

[dyeager535]

Reinforcing the metal will work, assuming the stud doesn't stretch. The only reason the bolt holes can elongate or crack is because there is play in the shock stud attachment. That is either coming from the nuts loosening up (and in my cases, the nut wasn't physically loose), the metal mounting area flexes enough to allow the stud to get worked and stretches, or the shock stud metal is weak enough that it stretches. Wouldn't surprise me on the aftermarket ones.

The riveted on shock mount has leverage working against it, and I wouldn't be surprised if frame twist and/or simple lack of rigidity is a cuplrit on the other side that bolts directly through the frame.

The studs are pretty basic. One end goes through the frame, and is threaded so that you can tighten the nut on the backside. On the "outside" of the mount, there is a flat smooth surface that the shock bushing rides on. Then a smaller diameter threaded portion that the nut/washer goes on, to retain the shock to the stud.

GM realized this was an issue, later on the studs were pressed into the mounts. Haven't seen it on the R/V's, but have on the '88+ C/K's.

 

[Desert Rat]

I just repaired the very same crack last weekend. I drilled a relief hole at the end of the cracks, ground them out, then welded it all up. Then I welded in a washer on bolth sides of the hole to re-inforce it. I didnt weld the stud in place because I figured I didnt need to.

Ditto on my 76. Did the exact same thing with a couple of washers welded in. I didn't want to weld the mount in on the outside chance I stripped a thread or it had some other problem that would cause me to want to remove it some day.