Rear shock mount problems

[jimmyleetn]

Okay so here's the deal, I bought this 1988 Blazer last summer and it appears the PO at some point had to reattach the rear shock mount. Not even sure how you break one, but let's just get down to brass tacks, when they welded it on the execution and quality of work could have been way better. As you'll see from the pictures the angle of this shock stud is way off from what should be close to parallel with the floor. Obviously, the truck will go down the road because I didn't discover this problem until I got ready to do the lift kit, but I really hate to put a new new shock on knowing about this problem. I really don't want to drop the fuel tank at the moment and at some point I do plan to have the body and the frame apart from one another where I can really get in there and put a good mount on it. I guess my question is, what is the best way to fix this or should I just wait a year or two down the road when I have the frame off so that I can really fix it right? I can always just buy new bushings for the shock when I fix it the right way. Currently, the only thing I have came up with is to cut two relief cuts and beat it back to close to parallel with the floor with a hammer and then reweld it. You'll see that in one of the pictures that I drew on. I'm open to suggestions, and as much as I don't like it I could just ride with it for now. I hate to tolerate it, but I need a fresh set of eyes to look at this.

 

[Kain]

mine cracked at the top of the mount , from what i read its a common thing.
I would see if you could put a wrench or pipe on it and bend it level
if it rips or tears you can weld it up

 

[jimmyleetn]

mine cracked at the top of the mount , from what i read its a common thing.
I would see if you could put a wrench or pipe on it and bend it level
if it rips or tears you can weld it up

How could I attach to it with a pipe wrench? Would you grip to the actual shock stud? I have a new 18-in pipe wrench I just got yesterday because I had to warranty my old one cause I cracked it.

 

[sweetk30]

just a FYI: https://www.offroaddesign.com/rear-...87-91-k5-blazer-jimmy-k10-and-k20-pickup.html

yep they have problems . and these yep keep from snapping as fast and brace them .

 

[Kain]

put a pipe or a wrench on it like the jack handle and bend it up

 

[82355]

Pretty common.

Martin

 

[jimmyleetn]

just a FYI: https://www.offroaddesign.com/rear-...87-91-k5-blazer-jimmy-k10-and-k20-pickup.html

yep they have problems . and these yep keep from snapping as fast and brace them .

I have the kit and I'm not impressed. The four bolts they sent with it are at least two sizes too small in diameter to fit in the holes, plus I can't get back there behind the frame to attach on the driver's side because the PO put the biggest fuel tank that would fit back there and I can't get a spot on the passenger's side that will work with out moving some metal hard lines.

 

[jimmyleetn]

put a pipe or a wrench on it like the jack handle and bend it up

I think I'm following you. I have the old studs leftover too.

 

[Kain]

see if it will bend before cracking,be careful you dont bust a knuckle

 

[rampage]

I’d try using a bottle jack. Either use cribbing under the jack or something between the jack and stud ... just be careful nothing shoots out and becomes a projectile.

 

[dyeager535]

Tack weld the new stud in there and throw away the thread deforming nut. Use a nylock or jam nut to keep the nut from coming loose. At least if you plan to keep the truck. The mounts get hammered IMO as the stud works loose (later on GM used a knurled portion to engage the mount). Obviously that leads to complete failure of the mount later on.

Not sure I'd want to just bend something that I assume is formed as it is, to provide strength.

If the weld is only on the front of the mount, any reason you can't cut the weld, align it, and re-weld?

 

[jimmyleetn]

Tack weld the new stud in there and throw away the thread deforming nut. Use a nylock or jam nut to keep the nut from coming loose. At least if you plan to keep the truck. The mounts get hammered IMO as the stud works loose (later on GM used a knurled portion to engage the mount). Obviously that leads to complete failure of the mount later on.

Not sure I'd want to just bend something that I assume is formed as it is, to provide strength.

If the weld is only on the front of the mount, any reason you can't cut the weld, align it, and re-weld?

Not sure I can cut and reweld the old welds. There are at least three welds where the lines are. That lower one is THICK. I think they used a stick for it or several lap welds. There may be two more along the sides on top of the rail and perhaps on on the back if they did this when the tank was dropped. I knew the trucks were prone to problems here I just don't know why it was fixed like this. Almost like they used a busted mount from another vehicle and welded it up.

What do you think of my original plan from the initial post to make two cuts, bend it back, and reweld?

 

[dyeager535]

I tend to overthink stuff, I'm guessing that cutting and welding it would work, but as others have mentioned, might as well try bending it with a jack at that point. Without gusseting and what not, you'd still be changing the geometry of the mount.

It's not rocket science, but these things obviously see a ton of load, otherwise they wouldn't fail at the rate they do. Never seen conclusive evidence posted as to why they fail. Whether bad frames, weak mount design, and/or loose shock studs, who knows?

I still say weld the stud in there. Mine isn't welded on like I'm building a submarine hull, and it's lasted for decades. Not a ton of miles, but I did tack weld the stud in place, and IMO that is probably the real key to keep failures from re/-occurring. I've seen wallowed out holes combined with broken mounts, so I kind of assume the problem originates at the stud, not the other way around.

 

[jimmyleetn]

I tend to overthink stuff, I'm guessing that cutting and welding it would work, but as others have mentioned, might as well try bending it with a jack at that point. Without gusseting and what not, you'd still be changing the geometry of the mount.

It's not rocket science, but these things obviously see a ton of load, otherwise they wouldn't fail at the rate they do. Never seen conclusive evidence posted as to why they fail. Whether bad frames, weak mount design, and/or loose shock studs, who knows?

I still say weld the stud in there. Mine isn't welded on like I'm building a submarine hull, and it's lasted for decades. Not a ton of miles, but I did tack weld the stud in place, and IMO that is probably the real key to keep failures from re/-occurring. I've seen wallowed out holes combined with broken mounts, so I kind of assume the problem originates at the stud, not the other way around.

As an overthinker myself (and perfectionist), this is extremely helpful. Everyone on here has been helpful for that matter. I think I've got a plan to put into place tomorrow that's a combination of a few things we all talked about on this thread. I tried to pry it just a little bit today and I could tell right away that I was going to wallow that hole out. I should have a picture of my completed repair tomorrow. I ran out of time when I got off work today so I prepped it for welding and got a few other things out so I can get on it tomorrow afternoon.

 

[K85 Octane]

Through the bed shock towers. Helped my truck

 

[dyeager535]

As an overthinker myself (and perfectionist), this is extremely helpful. Everyone on here has been helpful for that matter. I think I've got a plan to put into place tomorrow that's a combination of a few things we all talked about on this thread. I tried to pry it just a little bit today and I could tell right away that I was going to wallow that hole out. I should have a picture of my completed repair tomorrow. I ran out of time when I got off work today so I prepped it for welding and got a few other things out so I can get on it tomorrow afternoon.

I've seen the wallowed out holes repaired by welding thick washers on either side. Just have to make sure the stud has enough length first.

Why I recommend ditching the thread deforming nut(s). Welding it in place is nice and stout, but obviously if you screw the threads up after it's welded in place...

 

[jimmyleetn]

It's done and while it's not beautiful, I'm happy with it. I went with a combination of several of the things we talked about. Before I lay it all out, go easy on my welding. I can weld pretty good, but I nearly had to stand on my head to get in there to that stud. Regardless of that, if those welds break, it won't be because of normal shock cycling. So first, I hit it with a wire wheel to get a good surface to weld. I pitched some blocks of wood behind the mount to keep sparks from resting or hitting on the gas tank or lines. I then used a zip tie to hold the stud in place so I could tack it at the right angle. From there I cut up a washer to make a shim to fill the gap (you'll see this in the picture below). I welded the shim in and then the stud. I took some breaks and skipped around to avoid overheating the stud and mount although that may not have been necessary. After the welding, I went ahead and attached the locknut and washer on the backside of the stud. It may not do anything but it's there and reasonably tight. Finally, I installed the Bilstein shock, and now I can get on with the rest of my build. Side note: I did order the relocation brackets from CPP (7387RSRB) to help add another shear point. I'll have to modify the driver's side one some but that's ok. I have the ORD ones on the shelf, doubt I use them.

 

[imiceman44]

mine cracked at the top of the mount , from what i read its a common thing.
I would see if you could put a wrench or pipe on it and bend it level
if it rips or tears you can weld it up

That is how I would do it