Rebooting... Project: Make it run again.

[jonrpick]

I started a build thread once. Maybe got about a page long. So, over the years, I realized that I'd gotten some wild and unrealistic ideas. Luckily, they didn't come to fruition. I just, unfortunately, read too many damn magazines in my quest for knowledge. Seeing all the cool builds here on CK5 kinda made it worse, but I've learned a lot about what I want in a truck during my time here.

Here's what I learned after a few long conversations with myself.

1. I don't wheel.
2. I'm not remotely interested in wheeling.
3. I never will wheel.
4. Ever.
5. See #1, #2, #3 & #4

So, now...that's out of the way. But I do love FSC trucks, especially K5s.

My rebuild that I started 5yrs ago stalled. Completely. I did get a touch of the "might as wells", and ripped out the interior, at which point I discovered rust.

The K5 has been sitting in a parking lot at Public Storage for 3yrs. It's time to either do something with it, or sell it and move on.

As it sits, the K5 is a collection of cheap fixes, all of which must happen in order for it to move again under its own power. Most of them are easy enough under normal circumstances, but these aren't normal circumstances.

My wife and I live with her parents. It's cheap, but I have no space to work on the truck here. A friend offered up his place to store it and work on it, but he's over an hour away. That's pretty much my only option. God knows how much it'll cost to tow it over there.

Obviously, if I'm gonna commit to this, step #1 is to move the truck out to my friend's place.

Let's talk goals, here... I want it to return to daily driver status, or at least be in good enough condition to serve as a DD whenever the need arises.

- Fix the body rot. It's not rusty by Midwest standards... Mainly rear and middle floor. Rockers are good. But it needs to be addressed, and I don't know how to weld. But I have had a buddy offer to weld in patches/panels as needed. I can get primer and paint in rattle cans and cover up the repair work to seal it as needed, but I'll need someone with more skill than myself to do the welding.

- More power than stock. This doesn't mean "horsepower". I'm after low-end torque and driveability over a loping, gas-sucking idle. I have toyed with the idea of a diesel conversion. Given the trouble I've had with the 350 crate motor I installed, this may actually be the most cost effective, financially-speaking, considering what it'll take to make that 350 "right for a truck. Especially considering the difference in fuel economy. We're talking re-camming it, possibly more. If I do the conversion, I'd be going for a 6.5T setup. Plus, I'd like to be able to pull a small trailer or camper occasionally, which leads to...

- Beefier drive train. Yeah, I'm not looking to lift or run bigger than a 31"-33" tire, but I did have a 10-bolt fail under mild DD use. A 14BFF is overkill, but a disc'd 14BSF is feasible. Plus, I can keep running 6-lug wheels with it.

- Better handling and ride quality. Just because I don't wheel, doesn't mean I'm not into doing some suspension work. Given the choice too stick with leafs or upgrade to links & coils, I'll choose the latter. I'll admit, the wife's Yukon XL has me spoiled. I know it would never ride *that* good,but it can definitely be improved upon.

Those are the main items, and the things I'd need most help with. Interior and electrical, I'm good with. I can figure that out as needed.

I'd like to hear comments as to the feasibility of this, given my modest budget, and trying to accomplish this over a long distance from home. Hopefully I'll sit behind the wheel of it once again...

 

[y5mgisi]

Good job on seeing the signs! I too have gone through what you have. Im not interested in "wheeling" But i do like to drive around in the woods and snow and be able to go whereever i want. Thats when i came to the conclusion that a 4" lift and 33s would get me everywhere i really wanted to go. So, good luck with your goals!

 

[bigjbear]

Here's my 2c, so take it for what its worth
First, get it out of storage. Paying money to store something will sour you (& possibly G) on the whole deal.

The next thing to do is come up with a real, workable plan. After you have your plan take a long, hard look at the truck. Since you know you won't wheel it think about what you will do- Haul drums or groceries? For the first your stripped down interior will be an asset, as a DD maybe not. As for the engine, if you really want a diesel you may be better off just finding a different starting point. That rear axle, if you're hauling gear to out of town shows, well you killed one already. The easiest option is a 3/4 ton 'burb axle and some 1 1/2" adapters. Plus you fix the track width "problem". If you're just driving around town, leave it alone for now.

If you really want to go with coils/links maybe you would be better off with 92-95 2 door Blazer. I had a '95 for a little while, and on pavement it was a better vehicle in every way but looks. While its not coils/links it is IFS and long rear leafs.

If after all that, you still want to keep it then it is time to start working. If you need a hand, let me know. I don't have much in spare parts since I moved, but I can still spin a wrench. Maybe you'll even motivate me to get mine running again.

 

[Deuling]

Sell it, buy a 2wd k5, lower it an inch or two and put a big block and a stick in it with 14bff out back. Win

 

[jonrpick]

Here's my 2c, so take it for what its worth
First, get it out of storage. Paying money to store something will sour you (& possibly G) on the whole deal.

The next thing to do is come up with a real, workable plan. After you have your plan take a long, hard look at the truck. Since you know you won't wheel it think about what you will do- Haul drums or groceries? For the first your stripped down interior will be an asset, as a DD maybe not. As for the engine, if you really want a diesel you may be better off just finding a different starting point. That rear axle, if you're hauling gear to out of town shows, well you killed one already. The easiest option is a 3/4 ton 'burb axle and some 1 1/2" adapters. Plus you fix the track width "problem". If you're just driving around town, leave it alone for now.

If you really want to go with coils/links maybe you would be better off with 92-95 2 door Blazer. I had a '95 for a little while, and on pavement it was a better vehicle in every way but looks. While its not coils/links it is IFS and long rear leafs.

If after all that, you still want to keep it then it is time to start working. If you need a hand, let me know. I don't have much in spare parts since I moved, but I can still spin a wrench. Maybe you'll even motivate me to get mine running again.

Jim, you're more familiar with my situation than most, which is why I welcomed your opinion...

Storing it is costing money. If I added up what the total cost of storage over the last 3yrs, well that would just piss me off because I'd know that I could've rebuilt the damn thing with that by now... Moving it to the friend's house will stop the cash flow on storage fees.

As far as goals for the truck's use... I don't plan to get rid of the Astro van, so I have time. Plus the van is obviously the clear winner as a parts hauler. Between the two, the van would also be a better gig vehicle--it'll hold a ton more stuff, loading in/out is easier because it's lower to the ground and has both side and rear access to the cargo area. As for the creature comforts of a DD, I don't need a lot. Vinyl seats and a rubber floor are fine as long as the heat & A/C work and I have a loud enough stereo...

The story of the engine reads like a tragic novel... I'm gonna take a loss on that regardless. If I were to sell the truck whole, as-is, right now, I'd take a HUGE hit on what's invested (though you'd never know by looking at it). But pulling that motor, which is close to as good as new, and selling it separately wouldn't be so bad, and I could use that money to put toward whatever engine went in its place. Honestly, a base 305 from the same era would run better, have more power and net greater fuel economy. It's sad, but true. I'm looking at another several hundred dollars to a grand to get it to perform like a stock motor would. Bottom line: I bought the wrong engine, and its cost me a lot more than just the price of that motor.

I've seen 6.2's and 6.5's for a few hundred bucks. Even a used 6.2 with over 100k miles would be a much welcome change, and it'd allow me to get everything else in place so that if I ever decided to move up to a 6.5T, it wouldn't be so involved.

*** I'm not saying it absolutely 100% has to be a diesel. I just think for the way I'd drive the truck and what I want in power and fuel economy, a diesel would be a lot closer than any gas engine.

Rear axle... If I had to have perches moved, that'd be ok. I'd say money saved by going with a 14BFF would be eaten up in having to convert the front end to 8-lug and buy new wheels... Am I wrong? It's been years since I looked over what all is involved.

Coils and links... That's not a "must have" by any means. It'd be nice to have down the road, but I was never unhappy with the stock K5 ride quality. Just needed new shocks, that's all...

And, I forgot to mention... This is silly, but there's an emotional attachment to that truck. Dad helped me acquire it not long before he passed away. He didn't help me turn wrenches on it or anything, but I wouldn't have been able to get it without him. That's the only reason I didn't let it go years ago. Silly, I know... but it is what it is...

Sell it, buy a 2wd k5, lower it an inch or two and put a big block and a stick in it with 14bff out back. Win

There's a local 2WD K5 on Craigslist now, but it's been lowered. I hate that look. If I had a 2WD version, I'd want it at stock height for a 4WD. But if mine were 2WD, I wouldn't be looking to change that fact...

 

[Deuling]

There's a local 2WD K5 on Craigslist now, but it's been lowered. I hate that look. If I had a 2WD version, I'd want it at stock height for a 4WD. But if mine were 2WD, I wouldn't be looking to change that fact...

An inch or two and lots of motor would be fun and more aerodynamic

 

[bigjbear]

3/4 'burb is a bolt in. All of that era are 8 on 6.5, that's why I mentioned the adapters. There are a ton of other rear end options, but that is the easiest. If you do buy a 6.2/6.5, and you are going to use an auto trans, make sure you get the from the doner engine. You won't get the vacuum that the gas engine made. IIRC, you will also need to convert to Hydroboost brakes.

None of this is a deal breaker. I would just hate to see you get stuck with another disappointing engine swap.

 

[Deuling]

3/4 'burb is a bolt in. All of that era are 8 on 6.5, that's why I mentioned the adapters. .

8 lug to 6 lug adapters?? Where are these!

 

[jonrpick]

3/4 'burb is a bolt in. All of that era are 8 on 6.5, that's why I mentioned the adapters. There are a ton of other rear end options, but that is the easiest. If you do buy a 6.2/6.5, and you are going to use an auto trans, make sure you get the from the doner engine. You won't get the vacuum that the gas engine made. IIRC, you will also need to convert to Hydroboost brakes.

None of this is a deal breaker. I would just hate to see you get stuck with another disappointing engine swap.

No, I hear you, and appreciate the advice and your looking out for me. Getting the odds and ends tied up so that it'll roll again, and swapping the motor are my main priorities. The entire drivetrain except the front axle was rebuilt shortly before going on the truck. There's just a ton of little stuff.

If I could re-cam that motor for less than say... $300, I'd be willing to live with it a bit longer. Either that or advance the cam. Something cheap. But I'm to the point of not having the will to mess with it at all...

 

[chulisohombre]

A new crate engine should be a good runner out of the box. If take it sonewhete and have them figure out what is making it run crappy. Maybe it's something easy. I'd get it running correct and then figure if it needs something different in it. A stock 350 on stockish size tires will get around 17 mpg. I'd stick with that for now and get the 14sf under there much cheaper than convert 3/4 ton and change rims and tires.

 

[jonrpick]

A new crate engine should be a good runner out of the box. If take it sonewhete and have them figure out what is making it run crappy. Maybe it's something easy. I'd get it running correct and then figure if it needs something different in it. A stock 350 on stockish size tires will get around 17 mpg. I'd stick with that for now and get the 14sf under there much cheaper than convert 3/4 ton and change rims and tires.

It's GM's 290hp 350. It's horrible. I'm not the only one who's noticed what a POS it is. It's get a 60's Corvette cam profile from a 327 in it. The 327 had higher compression, though, and it was also more of a "horsepower" motor. A friend put the same motor in a '79 Firebird. It won't even spin the tires...

No. It's cost me time, much more money than the initial cost of the motor and its installation, and a lot of heartache and headache. It's gone.

I just talked to my wrench-turning buddy. The K5 is getting towed to his place. We're pulling that motor out and Craigslisting it ASAP. I just need to find the cheapest way to get it there in the shortest amount of time.

I'm pretty much set on the 6.2L conversion. "Making good financial sense" went out the window a LOOOONG time ago. 3+yrs in a Public Storage lot means it's cost me over $3k just to sit there. I could've had a 6.5T and fixed the body work by now.

 

[chulisohombre]

Guess you just got a bad one. You'll be happy with the 6.2. Not much go but the torque is ok. The turbo kits help a lot to wake up the Diesel engine. Good luck and keep us up on wha you got goin on.

 

[Greg72]

Jon,

A few quick words of advice:

1. Ignore most of what you see and read on CK5..... seriously. We are a bunch of dysfunctional, unsatisfied tinkerers who can't leave well-enough alone and end up spending thousands of dollars to build trucks that can't even drive 55MPH down the highway anymore!

2. Focus on the mods in the classic order: Safety / Reliability / Elective Mods... cool new coilovers won't do you any good if your brakes fail and you're dead.

3. You can get very respectable ride quality just by doing the basics.... new body mounts, new spring bushings (maybe greaseable if you're feeling flush with cash) and some quality time spent cleaning up the springpacks and shooting them with a fresh coat of paint once the rust is removed. A quality set of shocks would ice that cake nicely....

There is nothing quite as nice as a truck that starts up and drives EVERY time you need it to. Focus on common failure points and do the pre-emptive work on your schedule so that you aren't on the side of the road in a foot of snow (or zombies) replacing a bad ignition module. Carrying spares is great, but I'd rather just be sure that the installed parts are fresh and ready to go when you turn the key.

Most of all...... avoid the forum-induced "Might As Wells". A lot of guys will cheer you on to add a lift kit, big tires, monster motor and a lot of other things that may end up bankrupting you and making your daily-driver miserable in the process. Come up with a solid plan, and STICK WITH IT.


-G

 

[jonrpick]

Thanks, Greg...

I think I got sucked into the "gotta mod it" syndrome, which led to "might as well" by reading too many mags like Peterson's 4WOR and Four Wheeler. I only read them to see what people were doing with their rigs and to try to understand my own vehicle a little better. Then I found CK5.

A friend of mine is nice enough to let me park it in his back yard and will help me with all the hard stuff. If he's able to weld, then that'll be a bonus (I think he knows how to Mig). It'll get hauled out to his place, and hopefully drive home for the first time in years a few months later.

Over time I'll collect a few parts, then add them in, slowly and methodically. Once it's running again with the new motor, I don't plan to change anything that can't be done in a day or two, such as an axle swap...

I'm really looking forward to getting it back on the road, though.

 

[Greg72]

I'm really looking forward to getting it back on the road, though.

No doubt. From what I remember these trucks can be a lot of fun to drive.



-G

 

[jonrpick]

No doubt. From what I remember these trucks can be a lot of fun to drive.



-G

I just happened to be next to the Public Storage where it's parked. I haven't seen it in a long time...probably well over a year if not 2. I pulled it. Almost threw up. You can't tell in pics, but there were a lot of little detail spots that looked horrible compared to last time I saw it.

 

[blazinzuk]

1. Ignore most of what you see and read on CK5..... seriously. We are a bunch of dysfunctional, unsatisfied tinkerers who can't leave well-enough alone and end up spending thousands of dollars to build trucks that can't even drive 55MPH down the highway anymore!

Best advice so far. It just kind of depends on how far you want to go. Coils and links would certainly be cool but that is a several month job for a beginner.

I would focus as has been said on gettin it running and driveable. Sounds like the 6.2 swap is already planned ( you will like this, no power but you can actually afford to drive it LOL).

A 10 bolt that is kept up on can live a very long life. My Jimmy with 35s tows Horton on a regular basis and the rear 10 bolt has been just fine. They certainly are going to take more upkeep than a 14 bolt SF but if you are staying with stock tire size and will only occasionally tow. Put that new axle well down on your list.

I would focus on interior mods. Consider the vintage air system, not only does it work AWESOME!!!!!! but it will allow you to use the 6.5 turbo with no problem as it takes everything off the firewall.

Sound proofing, aftermarket seats, nice carpet, nice dash etc.

Now if you decide to link it lifting it a bit to allow 33s or 35s would be kind of cool. Contrary to popular belief a larger tire doesn't really affect drive ability as much as some would have you believe, its more tread design than anything else. Lifting it some at some point would allow you to use crossover. I don't care what anyone says stock Chevy steering ( even in a stock truck) sucks.

I am kind of glad to see more builds like this. I wish you the best of luck with everything and really look forward to it.

 

[chulisohombre]

As was said the might as well bug hits us all at some point. I tried to run stock stuff and kept breaking it so I upgraded my axles out of nessessity. Now I drive it a little and do small things to make it look nicer or drive better. It's tuff looking at mags and seeing the newest wiz bang thing on the market and not want it to be in your truck. Mine sat for a few years while I collected parts to get it where I wanted it. The problem was that I didn't have the opportunity to drive it and enjoy it. Safety and drivability is definitely priority one. As things break upgrade as needed. Mine was down for safety reasons and not being to pass PA inspection. So with that also keep in mind for building or modding your truck as well.

 

[jonrpick]

Blazinzuk: The links/coils thing is something that would definitely come at a later date. If I do that, I'll probably look for a drop-in/bolt-on system that takes the guess work out of it. I have no plans to lift it. I may possibly move up to a 33" tire at some point, but only if everything fits as-is. The rear axle should be ok for a while. I rebuilt it 4yrs ago and it has no mileage on it... 0 miles.

After the 6.2 is in place, I plan to tackle (with help) any major rust spots. There are a few in the rear floor and where the rear floor dips down to the lower floor area. I already have looked at and am planning to get the Vintage Air setup. I was never really happy with the stock A/C, though it did work. I'd look forward to better-performing heat & A/C as well as more room under the hood. And I definitely am considering the 6.5T swap later on, and had read that the stock airbox interferes, so that's a worthy upgrade on more than one level.

Chulisohombre: Safety and reliability are my #1 priority here. I'm looking to keep this thing on the road long-term. I think driving a maintainable vehicle that's paid for is financially better in the long run, so I want to do everything possible to ensure that it runs long-term.

 

[blazinzuk]

Just another suggestion if you want more rear axle options. The Chrysler 9.25 is probably one of the toughest half ton axles out there. You would have to either pull the outers off a Dodge Dana 44 ( they will fit your 10 bolt) to get the 5 lug or just get adaptors for the 9.25.

Best advice I could give you is start looking for parts that will work for you that are not Chevy.

I am simply assuming though you have access to a welder because you are going to be doing bodywork.

Lots of cool parts can be used with just little tweaks here and there.


The only reason I say lift is becuase it gives you a bit more room for stuff under there. Like crossover steering. Although with no lift you could probably still do crossover just like an older Jeep.

Steering is one thing I would really look at tightening up. I would change out the front swaybar. I have had stock trucks and took the sway bar off I feel it didn't really change much.

I would also look at the truck a bit as an emergency type of rig. Even a stock blazer with decent tires that is dependable can get you out of most bad weather situations.

The links are not really as bad as you think. Expensive yes. But many companys make enough weld on tabs and link mounts you could probably do it pretty easily.