rebuild 350 CID 5,7 TBI

[Mikedohc]

Good morning, thank you for your attention. We are restoring a 350 CID 5.7 TBI engine, we have some questions for experts.

1º. - In the workshop manual of this motor, it indicates that in the screws of the cylinder head is necessary to put paste, is it completely necessary? I've seen videos on the internet that don't put money in it. How can I do this? Can I cut it short?

2º. - When we have put the pistons in the cylinders we see small marks, very small, is it normal for them to come out? see photo: maybe it was due to a lack of lubrication when introducing it. (See photo)

https://ibb.co/m7Nv5w

3º. - The camshaft at its ends is limited by a plug on the gearbox side, at what distance should it be placed because we don't know where to put it? (See photo)

https://ibb.co/fPR2JG

On the front side of the engine, the camshaft on my engine does not carry this part:

https://ibb.co/czVjXb

https://ibb.co/bPPiQw

The block has a shape to put it in, is it necessary to put it in? When we disassembled the engine, it wasn't on, do I have to buy it to put it on? we understand that the chain acts as a guide so that it does not move.


Thank you very much.

 

[dyeager535]

If the manual says use paste, use it. Anything added to threads changes the torque readings, if it says use paste, then that should be factored into the torque spec.

I don't know how the rear cam plug is seated, I'm guessing flush, but that's a guess.

That engine picture is for a roller cam motor. TBI engines, at least trucks, were never roller cammed. The part you reference is specific to a roller camshaft.

 

[YOUNGBLOOD13]

The paste is needed. Teflon pipe thread sealant. Those bolts go into the water jacket.
Hard to see mark in bore, if it is only cosmetic, run it.
The cam plug in rear does not make contact, just add some sealer and drive it in, just like a freeze plug.
As stated, your missing hardware is for a roller cam.
Good luck

 

[Mikedohc]

Dear friends, I have already assembled the engine according to your instructions, giving paste on the cylinder head bolts. It's mounted and working. this is the picture:

https://ibb.co/eGrp06

I hope you like it.

A hug from Madrid

 

[rampage]

Very nice!
One thing I’d do though is remove the paint from the water neck. I’ve heard that the chrome ones have a tendency to leak (probably because it’s so smooth) so I’m guessing that would do the same. Maybe someone who knows better can shed some light on this.

 

[Justin V]

I have had painted water necks before. Biggest hassle I had was trying to remove the radiator hose later. The paint "glued" the hose to the water neck.

 

[diesel4me]

I recall a 283 I had that leaked at the thermostat outlet/top hose connection...despite me wire brushing it clean and using a new hose,and some RTV,it still weeped ,every time I opened the hood ,I'd see green puddles on the intake....eventually the RTV formed a bubble and it burst !..also I think it made the hose want to slide off,it had moved since I installed it..silicone is slippery..

I decided to take the hose off,clean off everything good again,and try using some Indian Head Gasket Shellac on the upper hose where it slid onto the water outlet..leak fixed--it never lost a drop of coolant again..

About 5 years later the upper hose developed a bubble,so I had to replace it..it only took about an hour,using a wood chisel and a hammer to get the remains of the hose and gasket shellac off!..even my bench grinder's wire brush struggled to get the last of it off..stuff is like a weld!....