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Rebuilding kingpins?

ShiftyK5

1/2 ton status
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Aug 18, 2007
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Location
Carl Junction, Mo
How much of a pain is it to rebuild the kingpins on a d60?

its something i can do with minimal hand tools ? or am i gonna need to rent some special tools from the parts store?

there a write up on it somewhere, didnt see anything on the quick search i did here
 
Depends on how much you want to replace. Replacing the kingpins themselves is a huge PITA because they are on there VERY tight.

Most people just replace the plastic bushing and spring on the upper kingpin which is very easy.
 
i think thats what needs to be done to them,

not real sure yet cause i havent got the truck yet

was just making sure it wasnt a huge pain to replace a few things to fix death wobble before i buy it
 
i think thats what needs to be done to them,

not real sure yet cause i havent got the truck yet

was just making sure it wasnt a huge pain to replace a few things to fix death wobble before i buy it
If the king pins themselves are in good shape, then just get new springs and bushings, and if you have bigger than stock tires, then add a fender washer to each cap to prevent DW. Sometimes it takes 2 washers to fix the prob.
 
If the king pins themselves are in good shape, then just get new springs and bushings, and if you have bigger than stock tires, then add a fender washer to each cap to prevent DW. Sometimes it takes 2 washers to fix the prob.
eh, its not really a "fix", but it does seem to help from what everyone says...the biggest factor in DW seems to be the tires themselves. A decent quality radial tire is much less likely than a crappy interco bias tire (crappy in the fact that they aren't street friendly). I had some 40" tsls on mine, DW, had some 36" bias RTIIs, DW, and now have 37" radial GY MTs, no wobbles.
 
eh, its not really a "fix", but it does seem to help from what everyone says...the biggest factor in DW seems to be the tires themselves. A decent quality radial tire is much less likely than a crappy interco bias tire (crappy in the fact that they aren't street friendly). I had some 40" tsls on mine, DW, had some 36" bias RTIIs, DW, and now have 37" radial GY MTs, no wobbles.
I had DW with 35 bfg at's before the washers.

I now have 37in creepy crawlers with no stabilizer and didnt have DW driving back to the road from pritchett--14 miles--
 
You might also want to check the tie rod if you haven't already. That can play a big part in DW too. You can get the bushings and springs pretty cheap, might as well change them as it's hard to tell if the spring is worn out until you put it next to a new one!





Hold my beer & watch this!
 
Dont have posession of the truck yet so cant really do anything to it, its still in Utah about 1300 miles from me.

gonna be flying out to get it then drive it home.

was kinda hoping it would be something easy to do
maybe fix it before i drive it back thru the mountains
 
If the Pin itself is bad you'll need a very large torque wrench as they torque to 600 ft. lbs.
 
Dont have posession of the truck yet so cant really do anything to it, its still in Utah about 1300 miles from me.

gonna be flying out to get it then drive it home.

was kinda hoping it would be something easy to do
maybe fix it before i drive it back thru the mountains
Where in Utah? If its not far from me, you can bring it over to my shop and give it a good look.
 
Skill level for rebuilding the kingpins is pretty low. The effort it takes is high. The bottom plates on the knuckles were my hardest hurdle. My axle was out so that was an issue. I had four people standing on the axle trying to hold it down while three of us reefed on a cheater bar attached to the 7/8 hex wrench (available at Grainger for around $10). I am glad I rebuilt both the top and bottom of the knuckles so I don't have to worry about them for a while.
 
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