I would like to, but My welding skills are not good enough to trust sealing fluid.
CK5
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Rebuilding My 4L80E Transmission
- Thread starter 1-ton
- Start date
I did one on a 4L60E by drilling a hole and welding a castle nut to the inside of the pan (fluid can be drained lower by passing between the ears of the castle nut). I suppose you could cut a slot/notch in the front of any nut. Then a parts store standard drain plug with the rubber gasket in it seals it up. Most of these pans have obvious features showing where the drain plug is supposed to be, but of course you should verify clearance on the inside. Maybe somebody sells this as a kit?
I used a B&M drain plug on another that liked to leak and requires 2 wrenches to operate, so I wouldn't do that again.
I used a B&M drain plug on another that liked to leak and requires 2 wrenches to operate, so I wouldn't do that again.
Here it is torque converter in, and ready to install in my truck.
I would recommend Jakes Performance Transmissions. He has a bunch of videos on his web site and YouTube going into detail about known weaknesses of the 4L80E so you know he is fixing those on his transmissions. If you go to the big companies like B&M or TCI they will tell you all day how great their transmissions are, but give no details at all about what they did to them. There is a whole community of 4L80E freaks on YouTube that do nothing but build 4L80E transmissions, and everyone of them mention Jake's Performance Transmission at one time or another because they do business with him, and they know he is the Guru of 4L80E transmissions.
That's exactly what I do, I grind a couple of slots in a nut and weld it on the inside, then put a bolt with a copper washer on the outside.I did one on a 4L60E by drilling a hole and welding a castle nut to the inside of the pan (fluid can be drained lower by passing between the ears of the castle nut). I suppose you could cut a slot/notch in the front of any nut. Then a parts store standard drain plug with the rubber gasket in it seals it up. Most of these pans have obvious features showing where the drain plug is supposed to be, but of course you should verify clearance on the inside. Maybe somebody sells this as a kit?
I used a B&M drain plug on another that liked to leak and requires 2 wrenches to operate, so I wouldn't do that again.
Works perfect and costs a couple of bucks
I have my transmission in and bolted to my engine with the transmission crossmember. The transfer case is in too. I have a bit of clearance between my torque converter and my flex plate. When I push the torque converter in all the way, and then pry it forward a couple of hairs to make sure the converter has a little play in it the clearance between the converter and flex plate is about 1/4 of an inch. I guess this means I need to install 1/4 of an inch worth of washers so that the converter clearance is correct.
Push it all the way back into the trans, and measure the clearance, then shim it so it has 1/16 - 3/16" of clearance. So if it has 1/4" clearance all the way back, I would add 1/16 - 1/8", so basically some washers that are about .100" or so. I also measure the washers and make sure they are all within' .001 or so on thickness. Some washers vary way too much but you can usually find 3 that are close.
I should push the converter all the way back, then add shims until I have 1/8 inch clearance? Sound correct?
That's the just of it yes. You can leave up to 3/16" or as little as 1/16". I try to use one thick washer vs 2 or 3 thin ones if needed.
