long story short, I swapped in a rebuilt 700r4 and took it for a test drive I got a really bad shake when it goes into OD around 45 mph, and goes away if I tap the brakes. The fluid level is good and I adjusted the TV cable. I did not have that shake with the old transmission, so that leads me to believe something is wrong with the rebuilt one. I thought about unbolting the torque converter and rotating it 1/3 turn and bolting it back up...but I don't know if this will help. I'm looking for some seasoned advice. I got the transmission through autozone, and I have a warranty, but I would rather know for sure that the trans is bad before I spend another weekend dropping this pig.
CK5
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Rebuilt transmission issues
- Thread starter usaf_blazer
- Start date
The nose cone of the torque converter could be too small for the rear of crankshaft. Could need sleeve for proper fit. Check for cracked transmission case where the trans mount bolts to it, or loose mount. Thats about all I can think of.
Well, I checked the rear u-joints; the pinion u-joint is good, and the slip yoke u-joint has very very minimal play. I checked the torque converter and it was sitting at 140*F and the trans pan was 74*F, and it has been sitting for an hour and a half. I know they get hot, but that seems excessive to be that hot without running and cooling for 90 mins. I removed the bolts, and re-clocked it 1/3 turn. Hopefully that fixes it, I'll know tomorrow. I really don't want to have to drop this damn thing, ship it, and wait another week to get my replacement.
did it come with a new converter or did you reuse your old one. Taping the brakes unlocks the converter. Hopefully Greg Ducato will respond to this thread
They supplied a new TC
I won't claim to be an auto trans expert and internet diagnosis is tough, but that is a very typical symptom of 700R4/4L60E failure in my experience
When I test drove, the trans temp never got over 160*F, so I don't think I smoked it
The "shudder/shake" of a dying auto trans usually doesn't have a lot to do with temp, high temps are bad for autos but it isn't the only thing that kills them
It's weird for a rebuilt trans to be dying on its maiden voyage...
Personally, I'd be the first to say that I'd take a good, used pretty much anything over a new untested part.
Automatic transmissions are the worst, and in my experience 700R4s/4L60E's are the most problematic of the bunch. Seems like they're decent if put together right but that doesn't always happen, even from the better transmission builders.
Autozone is the Harbor Freight of auto parts, I'd get my money back and look elsewhere.
I do not know if I can even get my money back, I was always under the impression that if a part was installed and ran in a vehicle autozone would not refund the money. And from the reviews I have read of "All Trans Remanufacturing", I really doubt that they'll give me my money back.
Not really...seen quite a few "rebuilt" ones and salvage yard ones fail on the first ride!...
It sounds like a converter shudder especially since you are able to negate the shudder when you apply the brakes which cancels the converter clutch. The first thing that comes to mind is that there may be too long of a converter to flexplate bolt being used. If the bolt bottoms out in the converter it creates a raised dimple on the clutch apply surface inside the converter and when the clutch applies it hits these dimples and causes a shudder. Does the problem go away if you increase speed? Have you tried driving with the trans connector unplugged to see if there is a difference?
The TC/flex plate bolts are the correct length, they are not bottoming out on the TC. TC shudder is my thoughts exactly, I'll test it out with the connecter unplugged and report back...thanks!
So, I reclocked the TC. Didn't fix it.
Disconnected the trans connector plug, shifts good and no shudder.
Reconnected the plug, and shudder is back. If I'm doing 55mph, after it locks up, it will shudder if I lightly press the gas pedal, but goes away if I let off or press the brakes. Now, if I'm doing 60-65 mph, it works as advertised.
Disconnected the trans connector plug, shifts good and no shudder.
Reconnected the plug, and shudder is back. If I'm doing 55mph, after it locks up, it will shudder if I lightly press the gas pedal, but goes away if I let off or press the brakes. Now, if I'm doing 60-65 mph, it works as advertised.
The problem may be a slight misfire in the engine under a load which is why you don't feel it as much at a higher speed when the engine is at a higher rpm. Some questions: Is your engine stock? EFI or carb? What is the rear end ratio(s) and tire size?
TBI 4.10 33's
Thanks, does she idle pretty smoothly in gear? If you power brake to about 1400RPM in gear do you notice any missing? I ask these questions because these are the same types of questions the trans builder will ask and this way you will have the right answers.
So, I changed out the cap, rotor, wires, plugs and coil. Still getting the shutter when it goes into 4th. The trans works perfect if I disconnect the TCC connector. It will shift through the gears and hold 4th perfect. I'm gonna have to take it to a shop and see if they can figure it out. It's hard troubleshooting a truck when you're working 12 hour shift 6 days a week
