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Recommendations on Cylinder Heads

1975Jimmy

1975Jimmy

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Hey guys, I'm jonesing to pull the cast iron 882s off my engine and replace them with something a little more free-flowing. I've considered Vortecs, but didnt want to also replace valve covers and intake manifold. Any recommendations on what heads work well for stump-pulling, low-end torque?
 
Keep in mind vortec heads also have a valve lift limitation and require different rockers

That said, what’s your budget?
 
Bent77 said:
Keep in mind vortec heads also have a valve lift limitation and require different rockers

That said, what’s your budget?
Click to expand...
I was hoping to keep things all-in around $800. Any more than that and honestly I'd just look to buying a crate motor.
 
AFR has great flow numbers. I think others popular brand names do just as good. Id stay away from the Chinese alum heads since many have reported problems. I keep wanting to try some on my hot rod but everytime I read about them, I go back to the name brands.
 
Smaller ports and a little less flow will get you the low end torque.
Big ports and big flow you give up low end torque for higher HP up top
 
great video on the GM heads!
 
The 882s on my original 77 engine were cracked
 
The only time I have seen 461 462 041 or 186 heads is at the swap meet and they always want big money. But you don't know any history. the combustion chambers get smaller every time the heads are milled. I have writing across the work orders at machine shops, DO NOT MILL HEADS !!!! Only to go pick them up and find them milled. I refuse to pay for them, if I am lucky I get core money back.
These days finding a gen 1 head that hasn't milled at least once is going to be tuff. The guides are only good for 70 to 80k miles. Compression is going to be an issue, esp with our garbage gas.
 
I think only the 041 and 186 heads are accessory hole heads. And since most of these need reworked, you need to budget $500 to go through old heads

I will say that 441 and 487 heads are actually decent for open chambered
 
If I was on a budget, I'd do a new brand new Vortec head before I did any 70s head. Too many issues with the older heads and you never know the history. As long as you're not running a high lift cam, they will be great out of the box.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-151124
 
Lots of good info here. I haven't totally torn apart my current motor, but I've taken valve covers, oil pan, timing cover off and have bore scoped it. From the looks of things, somebody at some point spent a little money on the engine.

What I know about the engine:
  • It is the original block/heads to my truck
  • It makes 145-150 PSI at each cylinder.
  • It doesn't have an insane amount of blow by, at least not that I can tell
  • It has been bored .030 over (based on top of pistons)
  • It has a RV cam in it (dont know the specs)
  • It has a Manley HV oil pump and windage tray
  • It has Edelbrock Performer intake,
  • It has Edelbrock dual chain timing chain
  • It has a Hamburger's oil pan
What I dont know about the engine:
  • Cam specs and lobe condition
  • Lifter condition
  • Rods/Pistons specs
  • Condition of cylinder walls
  • If the block needs to be decked
Do you all think heads would be a gamble?

 
Last edited:
Agree. Put new gaskets on it and run it. Also it's better to start a build on another engine while this one stays running so down time is not as long. Sell the older engine later.
 
There's tons of articles on increasing valve lift on vortecs by simply changing springs and retainers.

Stock is around .474, with new springs and retainers it's over .500...

Of course, there's talk of the press in studs pulling out. I'd go with screw in...
 
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