Relocating steering box

[CyberSniper]

OK, since I've moved/removed everything on the K5 except the frontmost crossmember and one rear crossmember... why stop there?

If I move the steering box forward a couple inches I can run highsteer with crossover and 56" springs. I could also integrate it into my front bumper/winch plate/spring hanger conglomerate. That way the steering box would be working against the front springs directly (well, one end) instead of abusing the weak frame.

Anyone done this? Any recommendations?

 

[justhorsinaround]

Ya know that doesn't sound like a half bad idea. Course I am often considered the village idiot so you had better take what I have to say with a grain of salt.

 

[beater_k20]

how about just moving the existing crossmember to line up with the box, or making another crossmember? the bends in the frame for clearance of the box would be the only thing that would really hole you back from straight up moving the box.

 

[Greg72]

You ever seen the steering setup on Stephen Watson's rig (formerly known as the ORD Jimmy)???

The steering box in on the PASSENGER SIDE!!! I sat under that truck for a long time looking at it, and my head still hurts..... Works like a champ, however.

.

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

I think if I wanted to move the box, I'd just go full hydro. I would think that the fabrication required to properly mount a relocated steering box is not worth it in my opinion...because the easy solution is no steering box at all.

 

[sled_dog]

one of the reasons for frame breakage is frame flex. The frame will flex more at the spring mount than it will at the steering box(torsionally anyway thats just the way it goes). Look a the frame where the steering box is. You really think you are going to recreate that mounting farther forward? Only way I could see it is cutting and moving that frame section forward. I kind of agree with Tim, if its that much of an issue go full hydro or get WFO steering arms(behind axle tie rod). If you want to stick with the stock box location, cut or drill out all the rivits in the front end and replace them with 7/16" grade 8 bolts. Makes they are tight and check for tight often. That will help eliminate some frame flex, then add a bolt on steering brace, maybe a weld on patch or go all Missouri Offroad on it and just attack the frame with steel

 

[tRustyK5]

Twiztid moved the steering box on his 74. I'm pretty sure he moved it a couple of inches farther forward. I haven't seen him on CK5 for quite a while though...

Rene

 

[CyberSniper]

Well, when I've seen frames break around the steering box it's usually near one of the rivets or right at the mounting holes. I need to address this problem as I'm running 40" rubber with crossover.

The "easy" solution is to throw $110 at a frame brace and say screw highsteer.

The "difficult" solution is to relocate the steering box forward and spend the $126 on another Sky steering arm so I can run highsteer.

I suppose since I've removed every other rivet in the front end I might as well do the front crossmember as well. Wouldn't be that much more work if it'll strengthen the frame a wee bit.

I forgot about the fact that the steering box overhangs its mounting points. That makes things a lot more difficult. I have no problem with pushing the box off the frame a little bit but in order to get everything to work out right. It looks like I'd have to move the box forward more than the 2" I want to go. Why couldn't GM make it so the steering box had a little more meat to it and push the box off the frame a little bit so it had a flat frame?


Anybody got a picture of a bolt on steering brace installed?