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Removing axle shafts from 12b/ posi??

K85 Octane

K85 Octane

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Ok
The only axle shafts I've ever dealt with were the D60/14b and those are easy.
I have new shafts for my '68, which has a 12b and an Eaton posi.

Do I need to press bearings or anything? I'm guessing drop the cover and find the C-clips. I don't know if there is a cross shaft in this diff or how any of it works. Never done this to such a "light" axle lol, seems harder hahaha
 
GM_12_bolt_8.875_diagram.jpg


remove #23 then #7, then the C clips...then pull the axleshafts out.
 
Ok, so the posi still has the cross shaft but no spider gears, just clutches? I still haven't set a differential up but I have had to seal them, so I've only looked.
Oh lordie I hope the bolt doesn't break. It's a fresh rebuild with everything new, really shouldn't have a problem but never know. Good tip

After the clip is removed the axles just slide out correct? New axles slide in, clips go on, cross shaft back in, done? (diff cover and fluid lol)
 
First time I took one apart I didn't realize the bolt for the cross pin was reverse thread....
 
Ok, my bolt was standard thread.
Looking at the picture, the pin looks like it needs to come out on the side of the bolt. Just wondering, before I strike it, which way in needs to be hammered out.

I will be assembling everything back together but not sealing the diff cover. I found a bad leak from the pinion. This means I'm taking towing it to my driveline shop and having them deal with it. AutoClub FTW lol. At least, by today, I'll have the new shafts in and brake clearance checked.
 
ahahahahaha

New stuff FTMFW!!!
Sucker just fell out after I sneezed on it. Pushed shafts in and the clips fell out right into the diff cover. Beautiful! LOL
Y'all should hear me laughing under the truck ahahahahah
 
K85 Octane said:
Ok, my bolt was standard thread.
Looking at the picture, the pin looks like it needs to come out on the side of the bolt. Just wondering, before I strike it, which way in needs to be hammered out.

I will be assembling everything back together but not sealing the diff cover. I found a bad leak from the pinion. This means I'm taking towing it to my driveline shop and having them deal with it. AutoClub FTW lol. At least, by today, I'll have the new shafts in and brake clearance checked.
Click to expand...
Pin CAN come out either way. You should be able to push it with your finger but you could tap it up a little to start it, then rotate the carrier around and pull it out. Try not to spin the carrier without the pin installed as you will dislodge thrust washers. Push each axle inboard to free the c-clips then slide them out. Piece of cake.
 
Can I replace the pinion seal without pulling the pinon out? I don't have the means to do all that.
 
and does the nut need to be replaced if I pull it off? Also, how tight will I need to get it after? Crush washer to deal with?
 
You can replace the pinion seal. It's not hard, just a seal.

I have done quite a few without replacing the crush sleeve.

Pretty much don't tighten it past where it was initially. Well maybe an 1/8 of a turn.

Red loctite on the pinion nut
 
Oreilly's doesn't have a pinion seal and I just realized the stud holes are the wrong size on the new axles. 1/2" vs 7/16"
Boy I love waiting for the weekend to get work done, only to find out I can't finish lol
My non-car people neighbors probably wonder why it takes me so long to get things running again.
 
So Moser only makes this axle. I either have someone drill out the holes to except a 1/2" wheel stud or run the Dorman axles, which are no guarantee they are right either. My fronts are 1/2" also, I'm not running 7/16 in the rear, that would be dumb :(

OMG they use a custom stud with a .530 knurl on a 1/2 stud. That's messed up yo
http://www.moserengineering.com/1-2-20-x-1-1-2-530-knurl.html
 
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take a good sharp punch . make 2 marks 1 on pinion just in from threads and 1 on nut .

remove nut/yoke/seal .

install new seal .

install yoke and nut . tighten to the marks lined up then just a hair past to marks .

old gm tech told me this years ago good old school trick . like blazinzuk said .
 
Noticed while taking the yoke off that the seal seams to be leaking from around the housing, not the rubber to yoke seal :(

I didnt do the gears and rebuild on this axle. Whats the best way to install the new seal so this doesnt happen again? Little grey gaskets maker around the housing area? Removing old seal now....

 
Welp, I can't get the seal anywhere local. I can order something that LOOKS like it, but it's a 7-10 day wait to find out if it's the correct seal. They have like 6 seals listed for a '72 C10. WTF

So, I'm going to try something. Since the seal wasn't leaking from around the rubber, I'm going to straight the flange (from removal) and add some grey gasket maker around it. When I re-install, I'll put the repaired flange area on top. (since I only bent half of it removing it) should work out fine. Also, the yoke is smooth a silk, no seal to yoke damage.

PS> you can see my punch mark on the pinion, towards the top :D fingers crossed
 
sweetk30 said:
rockauto for the win . . . .
Click to expand...
agree, except I already reused the seal :D

Sealed up the diff cover and letting it dry. I will fill with oil later. I need to find a place that will turn these rotors. It's easier to just turn them than drive back to CPP and demand new ones. When I was down at CPP last time I asked them what pads I can use in the future. They said the fronts use a regular '03ish Tahoe pad and the rears are some 80s Lincoln rear caliper. I have the Wagner part number they use.

So it's all buttoned up, just waiting for someone to cut the rotors. Making a few calls tomorrow. If this shit makes noise after all these changes, stuff is coming off and going back to CPP. I haven't even had a chance to **** with the steering issue. :(
 
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