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Replace tranny cooler hard lines with hose?

AJMBLAZER said:
Where do you get stainless braided lines?

Zim, definitely interested in more info on yourself.
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'

AJ, this is the hose I used...when I called them they identified it as manufactured by Gates, and 250#, 300* hose:

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Push-Loc-Hose/764426/10002/-1



These are the hose ends:

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performa...h-Loc-Hose-End-Fittings-Black/773391/10002/-1



And I used a 1/2-20 inverted flare to -6AN adapter for the radiator:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220668B/



Also used these fittings for the trans case lines:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/110104/10002/-1
 
sweetk30 said:
ya why did gm swap the coolers side to side on the 6.2 stuff and make the lines all swap around and round ? :dunno:

seems stupid to me. :popcorn:
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Agreed!...they were not thinking evidently---also the oil cooler hoses & steel lines come from the usual drivers side location on the engine,and go all the way to the passenger side of the radiator where they enter the oil cooler--GM should have put the oil cooler on the drivers side of the radiator and the tranny cooler on the passenger side--then you wouldn't need double the length of hose or tubing and have it cross over under the engine...or the oil cooler hoses in the path of water and debris blown back by the fan too..

My oil cooler lines are crusty and ready to pop near the point they attach to the engine block and look pretty ripe where they are steel behind the fan too...been thinking of keeping a few 3/8" NPT pipe plugs in the truck in case they pop ,so I can plug the ports in the block off and be able to get it home!..:eek:...my injector lines look horrible too,been waiting for them to start squirting for a long time now...probably burn the truck to the ground when that happens with my luck..:doah:..wish I had the money to get some things fixed right for a change--sick of mickey-mouse fixes and ghetto fab repairs..:mad:..been spraying the rusted lines with white grease in hopes of delaying the inevitable rust failure a bit longer..as well as all the new brake lines I put on it last year..
 
Bringing up a slightly old thread to inject some things that i have learned recently in regards to hose for oil cooler applications, Hose ratings, fittings and SAE ratings.

First...most auto parts stores will want to give you fuel hose. Although fuel hose atleast has an SAE rating, it is SAE J30R7 which is only rated to 50 PSI, not to mention its a fuel and not oil rating.

Gates hose makes a hose which is made exactly for Oil Cooler lines it is called GTH and it has an SAE rating of 100R6. It is a rubber hose, but is far less plyable than most rubber hose as it is a medium pressure hydraluic hose. It can be used with or without permanent Hydro fittings. You "CAN" use barb fittings with a hose clamp.

Parker hose were the first to brand and market "PUSH-LOCK" along with the Push-Lock fittings. The push-lock hose does not have an SAE rating, but its something like 600psi, good temp ratings, and fire resistant. Now...Push-Lock hose only holds these standards if used with a Push-Lock fitting. A push-Lock fittings looks almost like a barb fitting but instead of the 4-5 barbs, it will have 2 large barbs. The OD of a 1/2 Push-Lock fitting will be larger than the OD of a 1/2 barb fitting, This also helps with the seal. The most important part of Push-Lock is that you push the hose ALL THE WAY onto the fitting and DO NOT use a hose clamp. IF you use push-lock hose with a barb fitting, then a hose clamp is needed.

I replaced a length of the gates 100R6 with some Push-Lock and Push-lock fittings and it was money. Getting the Push-Lock onto the fitting is a tight fit, but it is on there, with no hose clamp and doing well.

So...Disregarding the stainless AN method your two best options for flexable hose are

Gates GTH SEA 100R6
OR
Push-Lock hose with Push lock fittings.

And like RYOKEN said...Chaff points should be avoided for obvious reasons.
 
cybrfire said:
I think steel lines are a far more durable way to do it, that being said, i've cheated with some hoses in the past. Rated for oil for sure.

I'd think some braided stainless lines with the AN fittings is a nice way to go but not cheap either.
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This!


i personally would stay steel, they lasted 30 years, no rubber is as likely to do that for you and they are generally service free.

if you do replace them just go AN fittings and steek braided and be done with it.
 
My post was in regards to if you had to use rubber hose.

Parts stores are almost completely brain dead and clue less when it comes to hose. They seem to believe that heater hose and hose clamps will solve every problem out there.


Right now I have a mix of push-lock hose, some push lock fittings, some SAE 100R6 hose, and some barb fittings:doah::doah:

I really like the idea of braided line with an fittings and when i get to Cali and re-wire the truck I think I am going to re-think the Oil cooler set-up that I currently have.
 
I know someone who has had copper tubing for tranny lines on his plow truck for many years--he uses short sections of the proper tranny cooler rated rubber hose to join it at the tranny and radiator ends ,where he put barb fittings...........................................................................................................I've been tempted to use copper myself,but have always ended up using the usual 5/16" steel tubing,as I have read in GM servive manuals that only steel withstands the constant vibration encountered in daily driving...but using rubber at the connections should insulate the copper from any damage,its worked for that guy for a long time with zero issues....................................I think using ALL rubber hose would likely reduce the coolers efectiveness,since the lines themselves actually act as a cooler to some degree...copper might transfer heat better than steel lines too..best part is they'll never rust!..
 
Personally I'm solving my problem by selling the Blazer.

The rest of you guys keep theorizing, it is an interesting read.
 
How about hydraulic hoses?

I have access to all the tools to build my own hydraulic hoses and that is what I use. Im sure any shop that builds hoses could build a set fairly cheap ($10 each) based off your measurements and fitting sizes. Then you have flexable hoses that can handle the abuse.
 
big dan said:
How about hydraulic hoses?

I have access to all the tools to build my own hydraulic hoses and that is what I use. Im sure any shop that builds hoses could build a set fairly cheap ($10 each) based off your measurements and fitting sizes. Then you have flexable hoses that can handle the abuse.
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Gates GTH 100R6 Is a medium pressure Hydro hose that they make just for oil lines.
 
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