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Replace U-Joints now vibration

k5ryder

k5ryder

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I replace my U-joints this weekend and after taking it for a test drive I now have a bad vibration at 25MPH and climbing. The vibration is only when I have my foot on the gas. It stops when I left off the accelerator. I felt the vibration from 25MPH all the way to 35MPH. I have not tried to drive any faster. I replace the u-joints with Spicer 5-3147X. I tried installing the new u joints the same way the old ones were. I did hit the yoke with a hammer and I also used the vice to help press the caps in. Could I have knocked the drive shaft out of balance hitting it with a hammer? I also replaced my transfer case fluid this weekend and a new seal on the output shaft housing. I also put some grease inside the slip yoke before reinstalling it. I also replaced the shocks this weekend. FYI my blazer is a 85 that is completely stock with a 208 transfer case. I have included some pictures of my pinion angles. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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After installing, did the u-joints move smooth and freely?
 
the u-joints seems to be kinda stiff but I could move them with my hand. Kinda like trying to move a new ball joint versus and old one.
 
You probably dropped a pin (bearing) in one of the caps, and crushed it with the vise they shouldn't be stiff at all. But before you pull it apart try wiggling the shaft in every direction to make sure the caps are seated all the way. If it wiggles it's a loose cap, if not it's probably a dropped pin in the cap.
 
Im pretty sure all of the caps are seated correctly because I was able to install the all of the retaining clips on each cap. I do not know if I could seat each cap correctly if one of the pins fell out. should I go get some more u joints and try again?
 
Not yet, take the shaft out and find the one that's hardest to rotate and take it apart first.
If all of the bearings are good put it back and look at the next one.

It just sounds to me like you have a single bearing laying flat in the bottom of one of the caps and you flattened it with a vise and hammer to get the clips in.
 
AR_K5 said:
Not yet, take the shaft out and find the one that's hardest to rotate and take it apart first.
If all of the bearings are good put it back and look at the next one.

It just sounds to me like you have a single bearing laying flat in the bottom of one of the caps and you flattened it with a vise and hammer to get the clips in.
Click to expand...

to remove the caps I'm going to have to destroy the ujoint.
 
the caps are pressed in. The only way I know how to get them out are to beat the crap out of u joint
 
You may have the caps pressed in too tight. Try whacking the cross shafts to drive the caps out so the clips are all the way against the ears.
 
did the slip yoke go back on in the same spot as before ? or did you get it 180* off ?

I had this one time before I knew better . droped the shaft thinking out of balance and local drive shaft shop checked it and just needed to spin/ reindex the yoke 180* on the shaft cause I didn't mark its position and reinstall the same .

and when done with u-joint installs hold the caps in loose not in yoke yet and smack yoke ends were caps are held and this will free up any binding you might get .

don't belive this flex the joint before and after and it will move like butter after .
 
You don't need to "beat the crap" out of the u-joint to remove it, yes you can do it with a hammer but you don't have to damage them. Just remove the clips and drive it one way till it pops lose. You just have to be very careful when taking the caps off and putting them back on.

Watch YouTube videos if you need to.
 
Just pulled the drive shaft. The rear u joint is a lot tighter then the one at the slip yoke. Gonna try to flip the yoke around first
 
After removing the yoke I found a needle in the bottom of one cap! Son of a gun! It's not smashed though. Should I still rotate the yoke?
 
Make sure you didn't 'flat spot" the needle, if it's got a flat spot you might as well junk it. And if I were you I would check them all, those things should move very freely, as in the only resistance should be the grease inside the caps.

And I see no need I rotating the yoke until you know the I joints are all correct.
 
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AR_K5 said:
Make sure you didn't 'flat spot" the needle, if it's got a flat spot you might as well junk it. And if I were you I would check them all, those things should move very freely, as in the only resistance should be the grease inside the caps.
Click to expand...

Or grab a single needle from the old u joint if they were utter rust dust.
 
True, but he drove it like that so who knows what the rest of it is like.
It might be ok, it might not. The only one who can tell is the guy holding the u joint.
 
1 problem fixed first . then if still vibe flop the yoke.

and I always pump 1-1.5 hits of grease in the cap before assembly UNLESS there prefilled with synthetic grease and or spicer life series non greaseable .

this keeps the needles from droping out / moving around.
 
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