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replacing body mount bushings

R

riv1973

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hi all!

how challenging and what is the procedure for replacing the body mount bushings on a 1988 Chevy blazer. i am pretty sure ours are shot. can we do this without cutting holes in the floor? it is going to have a total body sand blasting and repaint. i was looking to do it now.

thanks

john
 
Really depends on how rusted the body bolts are. In NH I would prepare for the worst. (Former east coaster here, rust is EVIL)
 
My 78 k20 all the bolts came right out, surprised the heck out of me, seems to be luck of the draw on body bolts, soak anything you can get to for a week or so beforehand, could even drill some small access holes to get the red straw in to spray the nuts
 
I broke all of mine. The carriage bolts in the back were also spot welded to the body. I don't know why you would have to cut holes in the floor though
 
So are the bolts secured by nuts that are welded in? Are they self tapping? Do just have to remove the bolts and replace the bushing? Yes easier said than done but I have seen some vehicles you have to cut holes in the floor to remove the bolts and nuts.
 
Yeah weld nuts. At least on on mine. Except for the back mount which on mine was a carriage bolt tack welded from above to the body with nut on a washer you take off from below. As has been said spray liberally but don't be surprised if you break some (or all)
 
If you are going to replace the body mounts, do a 1" body lift at the same time.

Also, I don't know if LMC is still back ordered or not, but the LMC rubber body mount kits are a far better option than any of the poly body mount kits. The LMC kit includes all of the required hardware, no matter what anyone tries to tell you, the poly kits do NOT.

Martin
 
so these body mount bushings can be replaced without cutting into the floor barring any disasters. i was going to go with rubber ones. i want a better ride.

does the one inch lift need any adjustments to the steering arm or anything? i just pulled the 4" lift out of it.
 
Yes it does, and other adjustments fan and shroud, brake lines, at master cylinder. Maybe loosening the loom in a few places

I haven't used lmc rubber but I got the poly bushing kit from energy performance. Highly disappointed, the kit had missing pucks and when contacted about the missing pieces no reply ever.
The pucks that where in the kit where smaller dia wise. The core support lower pucks we're so small I didn't use.
I have a mix of old and new.
You can change the puck easily, just cut the spot weld on the top of the carriage bolts inside the cab area.
If any of the captured but bolts from the bottom start to turn hard stop, lube turn back in. Might need to drill a hole for lube straw access.
Do 1 side at a time, loosen both, then lift 1 side with a floor jack and load spreader, change the pucks loosely install fasteners do other side and torque down all fasteners.
Pull the grill for access to upper core support nuts.
 
The only adjustment that really needs done for the 1” body lift is the fan shroud.

Martin
 
Wes Harden said:
Yes it does, and other adjustments fan and shroud, brake lines, at master cylinder. Maybe loosening the loom in a few places

I haven't used lmc rubber but I got the poly bushing kit from energy performance. Highly disappointed, the kit had missing pucks and when contacted about the missing pieces no reply ever.
The pucks that where in the kit where smaller dia wise. The core support lower pucks we're so small I didn't use.
I have a mix of old and new.
You can change the puck easily, just cut the spot weld on the top of the carriage bolts inside the cab area.
If any of the captured but bolts from the bottom start to turn hard stop, lube turn back in. Might need to drill a hole for lube straw access.
Do 1 side at a time, loosen both, then lift 1 side with a floor jack and load spreader, change the pucks loosely install fasteners do other side and torque down all fasteners.
Pull the grill for access to upper core support nuts.
Click to expand...
Wes - I'm about to change the body mounts. If I understand correctly loosen all body mount bolts (both sides) and then only lift one side. Do I need to lift the side evenly? I have the fenders removed but the inner fender skirts are still installed.
 
I would lift the whole side, I did remove both the core support bolts before lifting a side. No fenders shouldn't make a difference if the inner are still installed
 
Wes Harden said:
I would lift the whole side, I did remove both the core support bolts before lifting a side. No fenders shouldn't make a difference if the inner are still installed
Click to expand...
I have two jacks I can use to lift with. I'm going to spread the weight using a 2x4. I'll start with the passenger side and try to lift it equally front to back. I have the gas tank removed and only the drivers seat is installed in the interior.
 
I only needed 1 jack. the body doesn't weight that much and only needs to be raised less than 2". 2x4 or 4x4 is wise
 
Should the brake lines be disconnected from the master cylinder or is there enough play in them? I'm going to watch them carefully along with any wires that may be attached.
 
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