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replacing distributor

white90burb

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I'm going to be replacing my distributor today and was wonder if anyone had any tips. Right now its basically under full rewire surgery so I wont be able to tell if its running for a couple weeks. I just want to make sure I put it in right.
If it matters this is on a 95 tbi engine.
 
If it ran where it is now, point the new rotor where the old one pointed.

Mark some general positions and tale some pictures. Might help you on reassembly.
 
Make sure you spin the oil pump over good to prelube before you stab the distributor.

I always like to put the engine on #1 top dead center.
Varified by checking the valves on #1 to make sure they are on the base circle of the cam.
Bring the piston to absolute top by rotating till i can feel it stop using a probe through plug hole.
Check the timing marks line up last.
Then stab the dist.
Don't matter where you put the rotor for #1, just make sure nothing hanging off the distributor will hit the firewall.
Then you know, where that rotor points is #1.
Follow around the cap.
If your not sure of rotation, turn the crank over twice by hand and watch the rotor.
That'll bring you back to tdc #1, put it back on the timing mark again.

18436572.

Unless you have an International Harvester Scout with the 304, 345, or 392..
They start timing on #8 tdc.
Had a friend find out the hard way even though it was stamped into the valve covers!
 
Make sure you spin the oil pump over good to prelube before you stab the distributor.

I always like to put the engine on #1 top dead center.
Varified by checking the valves on #1 to make sure they are on the base circle of the cam.
Bring the piston to absolute top by rotating till i can feel it stop using a probe through plug hole.
Check the timing marks line up last.
Then stab the dist.
Don't matter where you put the rotor for #1, just make sure nothing hanging off the distributor will hit the firewall.
Then you know, where that rotor points is #1.
Follow around the cap.
If your not sure of rotation, turn the crank over twice by hand and watch the rotor.
That'll bring you back to tdc #1, put it back on the timing mark again.

18436572.

Unless you have an International Harvester Scout with the 304, 345, or 392..
They start timing on #8 tdc.
Had a friend find out the hard way even though it was stamped into the valve covers!

Ahh, you are just swapping one for the other.
You can skip most of that.
Just put it on #1 top dead center.
Pull the drivers valve cover and verify #1's valves both close as you rotate in normal engine direction and bring the timing mark to tdc.
That'll be #1 tdc.

I thought you had a brand new engine there.
 
When I drop a distributor back in I use a remote starter switch to crank the engine over. Then I remove the number-1 spark plug, and a place a finger over the number-1 spark plug hole. I use the remote starter to crank the engine over until I feel compression from the number-1 spark plug hole blow on my finger. I then grab a breaker bar with the correct size socket on it, and use it to turn the engine, in order to line up the harmonic balancer timing mark with the 0-degree timing mark. Then I drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to where I am going to start my number-1 spark plug wire.

You will also need to drop the distributor in one tooth before the rotor line up mark because the oil pump rod is not lined up for the distributor. After you have dropped the distributor in, you will have to push down on the distributor a little while cranking the engine over so that the distributor will drop into the oil pump shaft. Once the distributor is dropped down into the oil pump shaft you will need to repeat the first steps I outlined, in order to double check the distributor rotor is lined up with where the number-1 plug wire will be, and the balancer timing mark is lined up the with the 0-degree timing mark.
 
So is this something I should wait until I have the harness done and ready to be cranked over?
Just don't go nuts cranking it over with the starter while the distributor is removed.
Oil pump ain't spinning while distrubutor is out.
Ain't gonna hurt anything but it ain't good either.
 
Starter method is easier and you don't have to remove all the spark plugs.
By hand, you risk stripping the crank shaft nut unless all the plugs are removed.
 
I was planning on just pulling it out and putting new one in.
You'll be fine as long as you put it back the same way.
Typically what happens is people put it back a tooth off.
Which is why i recommend putting the engine in a known position; like #1 top dead center.
You'll have to reset timing anyways once you get it running.
 

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