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Replacing Harmonic Balancer On 1974 Blazer with SBC 350

No need to to put at TDC. It will only go on 1 way. As mentioned before, compare old to new. Line up key way check timing mark.
The seal will engage early, no need to see inside timing cover, once key is lined up.
Tighten down with installer tool, remove tool install pulley with 3 bolts. Install center bolt with heavy washer, blue picture if you like and torque down to60 foot pd
 
I would replace the seal while you're at it. As others have mentioned you can just rotate the balancer so the timing mark it lined up with a particular number on the timing tab and when you install the new one make sure it's hitting the same mark. I usually skim the balancer shaft with grease before install. The balancer bolt is standard threads, not reverse.
 
Looks like somebody pounded the crap out of it too
 
Yeah that's what it looks like. That is very hard on the crank shaft thrust bearing.
Before you put the new one on, measure the end play of the crank.
Put a dial indicator on the crank snout. Push the crank all the way forward at the trans end. Set dial indicator to 0, push the crank to the rear at trans end. Max is .004"
I have seen .006 run ok.
What is your trans auto or standard?
Standard trans uses the thrust surfaces every clutch cycle
 
Well the crank sits recessed a bit. Good thing too. That thing looks like it step in on Mike Tyson
 
Dang looks a new motor too. Some people need to have the hammer taken away
 
Wes Harden said:
Yeah that's what it looks like. That is very hard on the crank shaft thrust bearing.
Before you put the new one on, measure the end play of the crank.
Put a dial indicator on the crank snout. Push the crank all the way forward at the trans end. Set dial indicator to 0, push the crank to the rear at trans end. Max is .004"
I have seen .006 run ok.
What is your trans auto or standard?
Standard trans uses the thrust surfaces every clutch cycle
Click to expand...

It is an automatic TH350 stock
 
When I did my balancer I read about how others did theirs and a lot of people are okay with hammering them on.

Edit: I'm not in support of the method, just that a lot of people do it to avoid buying the tool.
 
You can rent the tool.
Could be a very expensive gamble. The thrust bearing goes the crank goes, metal through out the motor.
 
OK. That dang seal gave me the hardest time. It kept bouncing out. I even have a big socket that is the exact size and it still wanted to bounce out.

I finally got it by pushing hard with fingers on one side and slow tap-tap-tap with a small hammer. It looks in but I am not certain. When I run my fingers around the edges it all feels the same but it is not flush...it is raised about a 1/16th of an inch all the way around.
 
I also lubed up the new balancer and set it on there and pushed until I felt the key line up. I put the installer tool on it and cranked it on until it started to turn the engine. Is that far enough or do I need to find a way to jam it so the engine doesn't turn and keep tightening more?
 
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