The tool should have a place to put a wrench to hold the crank from turning. You hold the wrench and tighten the nut against the pulley. It is done just like the tool for the pulley on the power steering pump.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Replacing Harmonic Balancer On 1974 Blazer with SBC 350
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
The installer has a center stud that you screw into the the crankshaft where the balancer bolt goes in. You then attached the thick threaded rod and seat it. Then you put the heavy gauge round plate on and then the "collar" that you use to turn and press the balancer on.
There is no place to put a wrench that I am aware of. I may be able to find one, but my question is more "is there more turning to do, or is it snug"?
There is no place to put a wrench that I am aware of. I may be able to find one, but my question is more "is there more turning to do, or is it snug"?
You will have to hold the crank some how. Either at the damper or the flex plate.
It will take more force to press the damper on then required to turn the motor.
It will take more force to press the damper on then required to turn the motor.
And the seal? Anybody have any thoughts on whether is is supposed to be flush or not?
About 1/16" proud or less.
I also am wondering about the pulley. The original one is OEM and is heavy and the new one is like Aluminum or something compared to it. The original has 3 grooves, the outermost is larger than the other two which are identical. The new crap I got from Summit is all the same size, all 3 grooves are the same as the large groove on the original.
Do you guys put rtv around the seal like a lot of the YouTube videos show?
I am starting to second guess the seal since I had to hammer it in the way I did. I have never had that much trouble getting a seal in. But while I have still got everything out of the way, now would be the time to be sure.
I am starting to second guess the seal since I had to hammer it in the way I did. I have never had that much trouble getting a seal in. But while I have still got everything out of the way, now would be the time to be sure.
Last edited:
It should be tight, if you want to use rtv wipe a thin coating on outside edge, see through thin.
The seal pocket must be dry for etc to work. Any oil and it will leak
I like this product for seal seams
The seal pocket must be dry for etc to work. Any oil and it will leak
I like this product for seal seams
I guess the balancer is coming back off and the seal is getting replaced...I want to be sure. I believe I got oil on the outer ring that fits in the pocket from handling it so many times. I would tap it and it would fall out. tap and fall out. hit with big socket and fall out. My left fingers got oily and I picked it up several times.
I better buy another seal and dry that socket / pocket out. It's just a timing cover I thing and is thin.
So it is better to dry the "pocket" and keep the outer edge of the seal dry? So that it is dry against dry?
I wish I could figure out a way to press the seal in.
I better buy another seal and dry that socket / pocket out. It's just a timing cover I thing and is thin.
So it is better to dry the "pocket" and keep the outer edge of the seal dry? So that it is dry against dry?
I wish I could figure out a way to press the seal in.
It is if you use rtv silicone. The loctite product I linked not as critical. Permatex #2 is good also, but I'm not a huge fan. Is hard to clean up and gets all over everything.
Yes the thin tin of the timing cover makes it hard to install the seal, the crank snout as well.
Use the same technique you used before.
Yes the thin tin of the timing cover makes it hard to install the seal, the crank snout as well.
Use the same technique you used before.
Well, I didn't use any rtv or anything like that. Just the seal.
Does the crankshaft bolt go in before the pulley, because the is a "lip" around the pulley center hole that would prevent it seating properly if the big washer is already on with crankshaft bolt.
Also, if I use the new pulleys I bought the AC and power steering belt sizes will change and they will spin faster than before.
Also, if I use the new pulleys I bought the AC and power steering belt sizes will change and they will spin faster than before.
Last edited:
bolt and washer get torqued on first, then the pulleys get bolted with the 3 bolts.
Old and new pulley
I wonder which is "correct". The incorrect one will change the standard belt sizes.
That’s incorrect. Pulley shoulder Keys into balancer, then all the bolts go in. Main center and 3 perimeter.
Pulley shoulder Keys into balancer, then all the bolts go in. Main center and 3 perimeter. I would run the pulley you had because you know it works, but a small bump in a/c and p/s rpm might be a good thing??
thats the wrong pulley. the 2 inside will turn slower, if you use that pulley.
