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"Restoring" a 1979 K5 Blazer... Need some Help

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I added it all up and could not decide to laugh or cry. To date we have:
1990 Blazer at aution - $1250
33" Tires + Wheels $750
4" Lift kit $500
Upgrade axles $125
U joints, ball joints, bearings,
brakes rebuild f/r $385
Under hood maint - fluids
filters, plugs, plug wires etc $185
Winch and Winch bumper $700
F/R Lock Right Lockers $570
Rear seat and console $125
Replacement tailgate $185
Shocks $ 85
Rear Shackle and Front
Swaybar bushings $63
Transmission cooler $49
Off road lights $116
New exhaust $200
Total $5288

And this is since September. Of course this does not include all the other "Little" stuff I have picked up (RTV, gaskets, fasteners etc) and the specialized tools I have bought (Front bearing socket and the like) cause that stuff adds a couple of hundred more bucks.:p:

Welcome to the group! Do the maintainence stuff first and learn about your vehicle and it's limitations before you shell out any money on major upgrades. I already have some parts I bought that will be comming back off in the not too distant future!:doah:

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I already have alot of that stuff, I was conisdering upgrading to 3/4 ton axels. I have to get my steering fixed and get the carb tuned, its burning too rich right now.
 
m1ndless said:
I already have alot of that stuff, I was conisdering upgrading to 3/4 ton axels. I have to get my steering fixed and get the carb tuned, its burning too rich right now.
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unless you plan on running tires bigger than 36" i really don't think that would be worth it. you can get some pretty strong parts for 1/2 ton axles these days.
 
W7NB the antenna on drivers side looks like an Antenna Specialist made here in Toledo just a few blocks from me. Kick arse antennas
 
Good eye! I have them on my Blazer and Pickup and they do take a beating and just keep going!

m1ndless - sounds like a good plan! Make sure your steering, brakes etc are ok before you start towing - it's bad enough to have problems without the trailer, but with...

Also, make sure the rich condition is not because your timing is off, plugs are fouled etc, and that your fuel pressure is correct. I've seen alot of carbs torn into when they were not the problem.
 
Well I wont be towing yet, I am just going to take the camper off and put my quad in the back, it looks like there is more than enough room. Should I take the glass all the way out when putting my quad in just to be safe? The motor doesnt work, and its off the track, it slides up and down but I havent tried taking it out alll the way yet, I have it ghetto rigged to stay up using 3 pieces of wood so no one steals it lol
 
Might be easier to take the tailgate off altogether (it's only held on by 6 bolts and the two cables) and get one of those web type tailgates for hauling with - it would be easier to load and unload that way rather then dealing with the tailgate. Othewise I'd just take out the glass and have a top shop make me a snap in window - well if I lived in Phoenix I would.
 
The problem with the netted tailgate..is someone would steal my truck. I don't live in the best area. or are you saying just take it off when I haul?

Waht is a snap in window?
 
Window made out of isenglass - like on a soft top. And if they want to steal your truck it takes about 45 seconds to steal a blazer with the top on...

I'm not sure how hard it would be to take the tailgate off and put it on without the glass - it would be lighter.
 
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W7NB said:
Window ,ade out of isenglass - like on a soft top. And if they want to steal your truck it takes about 45 seconds to steal a blazer with the top on...

I'm not sure how hard it would be to take the tailgate off and put it on without the glass - it would be lighter.
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Is it tooo old to hook an alarm up to it? I put "The Club" on it, I was thinking a bear might more effective.
 
Will seats from a newer blazer fit?

From experience I put seats from a 1982 or 1983 in my '79 K5 the bolt holes will line up the holes fit from side to side but not from front to back, I just drilled new holes for the back ones and bolted them down. But make sure that you properly align the seat with the latch hook on the floor.
 
Here is my theft deterrent! It is double nutted and tacked to th seat frame. They can remove seat or steering wheel but the thought is to make it harder to steal so they hit a softer target. If they want it bad enough they will come with a tow truck. How many time do you question a tow truck getting a car?

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The pic was to show where the delay box was for a prior post.
 
Yeah, I saw that post, but shipping would kill that deal, I could get a billet one on eBay for $60
 
I shipped a full 56" light bar to New York which is heavier and larger via the post office for $70.00 insured. The grill is lighter and smaller post office should not be that bad.
 
Metrodps said:
Here is my theft deterrent! It is double nutted and tacked to th seat frame. They can remove seat or steering wheel but the thought is to make it harder to steal so they hit a softer target. If they want it bad enough they will come with a tow truck. How many time do you question a tow truck getting a car?

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The pic was to show where the delay box was for a prior post.
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Great idea - I think I'll do the same thing with mine. Like you say - it's there to make it tougher to steal. Nothing makes it impossible. As for the club, a friend of mine sent me a picture of a Porche steering wheel with club attached laying on the ground outside of a condo complex. The car was found later - they were using a pair of vice grips to steer with! :eek1:
 
m1ndless said:
Is it tooo old to hook an alarm up to it? I put "The Club" on it, I was thinking a bear might more effective.
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do it put an alarm on.. i love mine just for the simple feature of keyless entry:D also its funny the look on peoples faces when they see my truck and hear the alarm.. you may need to upgrade to power locks/windows if you dont have them though
 
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