Part showed up Saturday. It's a good thing this trailer I am working rling on need an adapter.
CK5
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Had some time to work on the brakes finally. New master cylinder. Put a roll control for the front brakes after the proportioning valve. Plugged one front line outlet on the P valve. Ran the other front to the roll control valve and used that to split to the front calipers. Roll control was installed inside of the frame just behind the front cross member. Short lines suck to make. One was a little bit too long to had to cut the flair off and re-flair. I did not forget to put a nut on before flairing. But I did get a nut to far down the tube before I put a bend in.
The long one from the passenger side was bent like the factory tube then finished to the controller. Those 2 nuts threaded in first shot, nice and easy. Figured I must have done something wrong. The driver side to the through frame fitting was a pain to tighten. Until I remembered that I have crows feet tubing wrenches. Very easy with that.
The pressure bleeder is a time saver.
Pulled the bleeder out of the right front. Is flat on the bottom. No through ports for bleeding. Looking into the caliper, the hole is not centered on the port in the bottom. Looking at the bleeder a little closer, I realized the caliper must have been a rebuild.
The old bleeder screw was broke off or stripped. They drilled out bigger and put an adapter sleave in for the bleeder to screw into a seat.
New caliper was installed.
Bleeding the rears suck because I can not get a line on to control the out flow. So a diverter tray was bent up to go under the backing plate.
I have brakes again.
The long one from the passenger side was bent like the factory tube then finished to the controller. Those 2 nuts threaded in first shot, nice and easy. Figured I must have done something wrong. The driver side to the through frame fitting was a pain to tighten. Until I remembered that I have crows feet tubing wrenches. Very easy with that.
The pressure bleeder is a time saver.
Pulled the bleeder out of the right front. Is flat on the bottom. No through ports for bleeding. Looking into the caliper, the hole is not centered on the port in the bottom. Looking at the bleeder a little closer, I realized the caliper must have been a rebuild.
The old bleeder screw was broke off or stripped. They drilled out bigger and put an adapter sleave in for the bleeder to screw into a seat.
New caliper was installed.
Bleeding the rears suck because I can not get a line on to control the out flow. So a diverter tray was bent up to go under the backing plate.
I have brakes again.
Glad you replaced the sketchy rebuild. On of my on going rants crappy rebuilt brake calipers, and every brake shop pushes them on customers
Rebuilt were $38. New were $90. My peace of mind is worth the extra money.
I have been wanting to fill up the front fender well since I bought this. I have been vacillating on what to do. Yes, that is a word.
I really want to go fatties in the back, front looks weird no matter what.
I had this roller that I bought to move the 48 around. This was the 5th wheel. I will not run this size tire. It is a 285/75-16. I will run the stock size of 255/85-16 that I have 6 new on the truck now. They will rot before I wear them out.
Stock set up.
Dodge chromes.
Will there be a drivability issue with the centerline of the tire so far out from the ball joint pivots? I know people run spacers and huge offsets all of the time, but.....
I really want to go fatties in the back, front looks weird no matter what.
I had this roller that I bought to move the 48 around. This was the 5th wheel. I will not run this size tire. It is a 285/75-16. I will run the stock size of 255/85-16 that I have 6 new on the truck now. They will rot before I wear them out.
Stock set up.
Dodge chromes.
Will there be a drivability issue with the centerline of the tire so far out from the ball joint pivots? I know people run spacers and huge offsets all of the time, but.....
i think our older over built stuff with wide spread wheel bearings will last longer than todays junk on wheel spacers and unit bearings will .
run the singles on the drw hubs .
run the singles on the drw hubs .
Wish I knew about this before blazer bash , have a set of those wheels just hanging out , can’t give them away.
I didn't even know then.
I have a set as well, agree, I was gonna scrap them….should I bring them to Windrock?
I paid $100 for 5 with 50% tires on them.
Definitely looks better. That stock dually wheels just sit too far in. I guess you will have to drive it and see if it changes anything with how it steers and such but I'd bet for what it is it will be fine.
You changed your scrub radius a little but but to be honest I don't think it will matter much.
Our DRW Dana 60s don't have the tires tucked way in toward the king pin either and they handle fine.
And they use the same axles for several different wheel bases, they don't customize the scrub radius on solid axles for the wheel base either.
With that said, I just start out slow to get the feel before you take a curve at 50 with that corner carver...
I just realized that's an IFS, it may ride a little softer, because I think you moved the point of contact further away from the pivot, to give the suspension more leverage on the spring and shocks. So again, test it slow first.
Our DRW Dana 60s don't have the tires tucked way in toward the king pin either and they handle fine.
And they use the same axles for several different wheel bases, they don't customize the scrub radius on solid axles for the wheel base either.
With that said, I just start out slow to get the feel before you take a curve at 50 with that corner carver...
I just realized that's an IFS, it may ride a little softer, because I think you moved the point of contact further away from the pivot, to give the suspension more leverage on the spring and shocks. So again, test it slow first.
Cut outs?
Yes. Because everything on this truck is ridiculous.
Time for name change. ReTonkulous
I got the drivers side done. Slid it back under the truck. Realized I forgot to weld the O2 bung in. Now I can't find it, so I quit for the night.
Found the O2 bung. Burned it in.
Maybe I shouldn't be doing this stuff anymore.
Maybe I shouldn't be doing this stuff anymore.
That’s ok Wade, that weld needs redone anyway…Found the O2 bung. Burned it in.
View attachment 440105
Maybe I shouldn't be doing this stuff anymore.
yaa . and the flange is on the wrong side of the bung .
