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reverse hi-steer with 6.2

muddybuddy

muddybuddy

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looks like reverse hi-steer wouldnt work with a 6.2 unless you have alot of lift because of the oil pan. i know stallion85 was plannin on doing it but ended up not becuase of the clearance, but has anyone else tried it, or is running it? if so how much lift do you have?
 
Whats the reason for going reverse highsteer over regular? or why not just go with regular croosover? You dont do rocks that much, i thought you were a mud guy?
 
79k20350 said:
Whats the reason for going reverse highsteer over regular? or why not just go with regular croosover? You dont do rocks that much, i thought you were a mud guy?
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i used to do mud, but im changing routes with my rig. mud just isnt doing it that much for me anymore, and around school there are lots of trails and such, and im plannin on a trip to tellico this summer. im lowering it down to 6" susp and probably 1" body lift and going to just cut the fenders. the reverse hi-steer would be because of running the 52's up front. id consider alcans be i think those might be a little pricey. be either way im going to need to move the axle forward 2-3" to keep the tires out of the firewall, from what ive read, the draglink will cross with the tie-rod in regular histeer with the axle forward that much.
 
muddybuddy said:
i used to do mud, but im changing routes with my rig. mud just isnt doing it that much for me anymore
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Quick! :eek: Someone call an ambulance! Get the butterfly nets! :eek: There's a delirious K5'er on the loose! :eek:
He's lost it! :crazy:
 
IMHO, and take it FWIW..

You should at least try some trails the way your are set up now. I went on the most difficult trail at Uwharrie in a completely stock K5. (suspension wise) It has 2.73 (yes, 2.73) gears, a TH400 with an insane 3000 stall converter (racing intended), and only a lockrite and 33" M/T's. And well, some HP (ZZ4) :D

I made it, albeit some body damage which could have been avoided ;) Did I look the most professional doing it? No, but it was fun and it was do-able.

All I'm saying with all of this is, if I can do it damn near stock, you should be able to cake walk most everything out there with some finesse the way you are set up now.

Just my .02
John
 
MuddinManny said:
Quick! :eek: Someone call an ambulance! Get the butterfly nets! :eek: There's a delirious K5'er on the loose! :eek:
He's lost it! :crazy:
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well if i had high horsepower, id be all over it, but going with a diesel, well you know how they is. the spots where i wheel are becoming more and more less mud.

the thing is, my current cross-over arm is kind of ghetto, so im looking to replace that, and my draglink is using the stock draglink ends (i want to go with 1ton TRE's). my rig will probably be out of commission for a while anyways so ill have time. i was just asking if anyone had successfully done it on 6.2 rig cuz of the clearance with the oilpan..
 
I got my crossover from ORD. when I ordered it I talked to stephen about his Hi-steer and moving the axle forward. he said it was good for 4" forward. thats well within you range. I didn't have the money for the hi-steer and probably won't for a while.

I wheel my truck pretty hard with the tierod in the stock location. the last 4 times out I never even touched it on anything. If your diff clears then so does everything else. You have to take the wrong line to bend your tie rod.

I pick my lines around the front diff.

nov 25th 004.jpg
 
You might just think about moving the steering box forward on the frame instead.....

Then you can use a conventional high-steer setup and not having interference issues....all you need is a longer steering shaft which should be EASY to get.
 
thanks for the heads up :) for some reason i thought i remembered reading somewhere that with 52's up front, regular hi-steer was not going to work. glad that it can. thanks for clearing that up
 
gmc4cw said:
I got my crossover from ORD. when I ordered it I talked to stephen about his Hi-steer and moving the axle forward. he said it was good for 4" forward. thats well within you range.
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You're going to have to explain that further....I don't see how the axle can move THAT far forward without incident.

Here is my ORD Highsteer with the axle forward ONLY 1"....

Mvc_386f.jpg


When I stuff the driver's side tire (far side of this pic) it hits the pitman arm....not by much, but it does make contact. If the axle was forward another 3" the draglink would be running diagonally across the top of the tierod, and would make a huge mess of things when the axle starting articulating.....

Maybe I'm just missing something? :dunno:
 
see thats what i thought as well...i guess ill keep my current setup til i can figure something out with the 6.2, maybe a bent tie-rod for rear histeer
 
muddybuddy said:
see thats what i thought as well...i guess ill keep my current setup til i can figure something out with the 6.2, maybe a bent tie-rod for rear histeer
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.......OR, move the steering box! :D


Take a look at my photo again. If you move that box forward, all the geometry stays the same when the axle moves forward. :thumb:

Plus, from what I have read....those rear mounted high-steer systems rarely have a decent Ackermann angle. Not sure why, except maybe the manufacturers didn't care enough to get it right. I know that Stephen at ORD spent a lot of time getting his high-steer geometry correct, and it works well on a street-driven truck.

:usaflag:
 
haha well i guess that definitely an option to. where you i get a longer steering shaft from?
 
Dude, honestly look into alcans... Stock length will cost you very close to what a lifted 52" spring will cost. It will be money much better spent. The spring will be setup exactly for your vehicle... Or get 52's cause its the cool thing to do:rolleyes:
 
79k20350 said:
Dude, honestly look into alcans... Stock length will cost you very close to what a lifted 52" spring will cost. It will be money much better spent.
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Custom Alcans also visible in my photo posted above...... :D
 
another guy on here thats right down the street from me sent alcan an email, and they said it would be $210 per side + shipping. thats alot of money. i can get slightly lifted tuffcountry's at work for $225 or so for the pair with 2 day shipping, it just makes more sense. do you really think alcans are worth over double the price once shipping is added? what if i went with custom alcan 56's:D
 
A lot of guys were talking about modding the oil pans. Why don't you do it then work all the bugs out, then do a write up so I can do mine......lol :)
 
stallion85 said:
A lot of guys were talking about modding the oil pans. Why don't you do it then work all the bugs out, then do a write up so I can do mine......lol :)
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haha. right now im too lazy to find the pics of urs, but how bad was it? im planning on having about 6" of lift, maybe those extra 2" will make a big difference? but i guess there would still be a problem when flexing
 
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