Reviving a parked K5

[CAVANALK5]

OK guys. I searched several different ways and found no thread like this. I've got an '88 Chevy K5 4x4 Silverado with 350 TBI (stock) that has been parked for several years. Yes I know, please forgive me for I have sinned.

It's at my dad's in the pasture and messy divorce (I'm momma's boy), therefore, I'll go pick it up all in one day, once all the divorce paperwork is done to get it out of their names into mine.

What all would you recommend checking/changing to get it running?

I plan:
Fresh battery
Fresh fuel/filter
Fresh oil/filter
Spark plugs maybe
Probably a can of ether (can it be sprayed as with a carb? i can't recall)
Jumper cables
Air tank (tires are flat; dry-rotted I suppose)
Any recommendations to pull old fuel? I DO NOT want to drop tank. Again.

I've got a buddy with a 1-ton willing to pull me the 15 miles if necessary. I may go this route, then get it running when I get it home.

When it was parked the rear end was clicking and popping pretty loudly. I know for a fact there's no posi or locker of any sort. So I've already figured on replacing the rear end. General concensus shows just replacing the 10 bolt is usually cheaper than a rebuild kit. I'm pretty mechanically inclined if the kit was thorough and instructions were included. Any thoughts on that?

I'd like to run a D44 and 14Bolt eventually but I'm not ready to dump that kind of money into it just yet. So, that'll kill the usual "Scrap it and go 1 tons" advice lol.

This is all I can think of for now. Thanks in advance for any help/advice/encouragement/criticism. Hope everyone's enjoying nice weather. We've had rain and storms for pretty much the last few weeks.

 

[toomany]

How long was it parked for?

I'd throw some fresh gas in the tank and put a battery in it and see what happens. Look over the wiring under the hood to make sure nothing built a nest under there first though.

If it does not fire with that. Do the general tune up stuff. Plugs, wires, filters, cap/rotor. After you get it running a fluid change for everything would be a good idea. Look over the brakes and hoses/belt before you actually start driving it any distance.

The D44 is about the same as the 10B you have up front now, so swapping in an 8 lug D44 wouldn't be a big gain.

For the rear axle, swapping a new one in would be the cheaper option. Unless it is just a u-joint or the brakes making some noise.

 

[chriskayer]

fresh battery and just a pop bottle or more of gas. Dump the fuel right now the carb and it will let it run until it can pump some fuel through the dry fuel lines. Mine sat for three years and fired right up. Hopefully your as lucky as me......

 

[supersize75k5]

drain the tank
new battery
new oil and filter
clean the battery cables
check for critters
remove the spark plugs and add in a bit of marvels mystery oil the cylenders
turn it over a few times by hand with the spark plugs out
let it sit over night
new gapped plugs
little fuel down the throttle body
fire her up
dont abuse it right away with your right foot right away

Ive started a blazer that sat for over 5 years with some fuel and a battery but its not the right way

 

[toomany]

drain the tank
new battery
new oil and filter
clean the battery cables
check for critters
remove the spark plugs and add in a bit of marvels mystery oil the cylenders
turn it over a few times by hand with the spark plugs out
let it sit over night
new gapped plugs
little fuel down the throttle body
fire her up
dont abuse it right away with your right foot right away

Ive started a blazer that sat for over 5 years with some fuel and a battery but its not the right way

I got you beat. I'm going through a '71 T-37 (base GTO) for a guy. It has been sitting in a field since 1989. He parked it one day when the plate expired and never got around to driving it again. The only thing I've done to get it running so far has been a set of points, a battery and 5 gallons of gas. After all the peanuts were blown out of the exaust (and all over my garage )...it ran great.

 

[ghostrider32]

Hey lance if when you get it home and see you need a rear axle. If you are unable to locate one close by drop me a line , i have 2 or 3 depending on what gear ratio you have. If i dont have one i can check my local network off friends to locate one for you pretty cheap.

 

[CAVANALK5]

Thanks guys. I figured I was on the right track, just from experience. My uncle's a jack of all trades/Jeeper. He'd coach me step by step but I want to do it myself lol. I've become a DIY'r but still rely heavily on the web.

Truck hasn't seen blacktop since late '02. Puttered around the yard once a month or so til about '05 or '06.

ghostrider32: that was my next order of business on here. I'll definitely look you up if you have what I need. Mine is 3.73s. I spent a month straight near Gerty on a rig, then another month straight between Ashland & Non, so I know where you're at lol. Not far at all. Well worth the drive for a good axle. I haven't found anything locally. The new j'yard in Poteau wanted like over $800. I declined

Note to self: Fire extinguisher

Dang I'm itchin' to drive the ole girl. She's nothing to write home about, but it's a start to her rebirth. Thanks again guys!

 

[CAVANALK5]

Any tips or tricks on draining tank? No clue how much is in there. Guage not working. I've siphoned by mouth before but would rather not. Is there a screen in these keeping hose from tank?

I found this: http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/how-articles/130142-how-drain-fuel-tank-w-pics.html

I'd rather buy a siphon pump than strain the fuel pump. We dropped the tank several times for that when my dad drove it.

 

[supersize75k5]

I have drained a car by simply disconnecting the fuel line going to the motor and placing it in a jug but you need to watch it and shut it off fairly quick to avoid burning out the pump. If its a mechanical fuel pump then pick up a siphon from harbor fright.

turn the key on and let it pump it out, with out a regulator in front it will drain decently quick.


When you go buy a fire extinguisher try to get one with a metal head on it. Stay away from the cheezy 10.00 to 13.00 kidde or first alerts. They are made in mexico and very prone to leaking down and not working when you need them!

Good brands would be a ansul or amerex or even a badger. Get a 5 pound abc with an aluminum head and it will last you a serious long time and can recharged for about 17-24 bucks at your local fire company.

 

[chulisohombre]

put oil in the cylanders definitely and see if it will turn by hand before you go to use the starter to turn it.it will loosen any rust in the cylanders and hopefully will free it up to start it easier.to drain the tank,you can just pop the fuel line and hook up a cheap elecreic fuel pump hooked to a power sounrce.it will get all the fuel out without dropping the tank.if you hook into the fuel line at the engine,it will prime the system also for when you go to start it.it should pull the fuel through the stock pump.3 years isnt that bad and it may just need a few gallons of premium fuel with a bottle of "heat" fuel additive to get the water that may or may not be hiding in the lines and tank.def change all filters and fluids before you go to start it.you dont want all that gummed up old fuel and oil running through the engine.it would be an easy way to plug up oil gallys and kill the engine quick.

 

[CAVANALK5]

Please forgive my ignorance but how do i turn by hand? just rotate the belt where it rotates the crank? i'm guessing just to make sure the piston aren't seized. and the mystery oil in the cylinders...just squirt it where the plugs go in? i have three good ansul abc units. plenty of oil field safety and fire safety training. i made friends with a couple salesmen who gave me a couple. thanks for looking out for me though. many folks take for granted the little precautions like that. thanks again guys. we're up in springdale ark at my brothers baseball tourney praying for the rain to hold off.

 

[supersize75k5]

to turn it b hand i meant as a phrase,


3 ways off the top of my head to cycle the pistons in the cylenders

1. put a socket and cheater bar on the crank
2. lay under the truck and use your sole of your shoe on the flexplate
3. remove the plug/wire on your distributer and bump it with the key

number 1 can be a head ache with the fan shroud and fan
number 2 you have to remove the dust cover to get to the flex plate
number 3 is the easiest option



I would do it with the plugs out and it takes the pressure out of the equation and gives you a reason to changes the plugs anyways.

With the marvel mystery oil or some atf just put a squirt or an ounce or so in there. I have never really measured but I imagine someone might have an idea of how much would be recommended if it really matters. Also it will smoke for a little bit once you have it running till it clears the oil out.

 

[supersize75k5]

when you do get it running also have look over on your rubber parts in your fuel system for some cracks or leaks since its been sitting!

This is my blazer after I went to drive it and it had been sitting for a while, the fuel line had dried out and cracked.

 

[blazin_blazer]

i've used a 18-24'' pipe wrench to turn a motor over on several occasions, even used one to break 1 free that was seized up. open the pipe wrench up just enuff that it will go on the crank pulley. just place the open pipe wrench jaws straight on the pulley, the moveable piece inside the pulley and the handle part on the outside of the pulley, then you can push/pull the pipe wrench sideways and it will grip the pulley really well, just don't go to jerking and snatching or the teeth on the pipe wrench will gouge the pulley or mess the belt up! i've used a pipe wrench this way to turn all kinds of things!

 

[CAVANALK5]

thanks supersize and blazin!

blazin, where you at in AR? I'm right across the line from Fort Smith.

 

[scrappyk5]

I just got a jeep with a v8304 running after it had been sitting for
6 years.

I first changed the oil and filter.
I removed the plugs and put some slick50 down in the cylinders and let
it sit. and did not put the plugs back in for easy turning the engine.
I disconnected the fuel line and ran a hose to a gas can so i know I would get fresh fuel.
I then took all the belts off and the fanblade.
I hooked a socket/ratchet with a breaker bar to the harmonic balancer bolt and slowly went back and forth till the engine loosened up. when I was able to turn the engine completly, I took off the ratxhet, installed a new battery.
I then cranked the engine via the starter for a couple minutes on and off.
I put the plugs back in, poured a little gas down the carb to prime the engine and a couple cranks later she fired right up .

Now I am in the process of replacing rotted fuel lines and hoses.

 

[nchinca]

One thing along with the other suggestions made that you might want to pick up or make from an old distributor is a pre lube tool. You take out the distributor, sink the tool (which is essentially a shaft with a tang on the end to turn the oil pump) in the hole, and spin it with a drill. This primes the oil system and gets it to the bearings, lifters, heads and on and on.

 

[four_by_ken]

To drain the old fuel out... I used one of the cheapie pumps that you hook up to a hand drill. I think I got it at Aco Hardware. Unhook your fuel line under the hood... hook it to the little cheapie pump that is now connected to the drill and pump out the gas until no more comes out. Put in new gas... and pump again until it starts to come out... then hook up the fuel line again.

No old gas gets in the carb.

 

[blazin_blazer]

i'm about 1 hr north of little rock in searcy...i come up to north western arkansas quite abit, up around eureka springs & coal hill. i have family in coal hill & eureka springs is just a cool place to go and have a little r&r..lots of stuff to do & see!

 

[CAVANALK5]

i'm about 1 hr north of little rock in searcy...i come up to north western arkansas quite abit, up around eureka springs & coal hill. i have family in coal hill & eureka springs is just a cool place to go and have a little r&r..lots of stuff to do & see!

Ahh I see. I almost got sent to a rig in Searcy area once. I've been to Little Rock and through it on 40, but never explored much else around there. Yeah, there's a lot of pretty country in Western Arkansas and Eastern Oklahoma. I was born and raised here and wouldn't have it any other way. Glad to meet ya neighbor!