Reworking after first Blazer Bash

[COChris]

I agree that putting money in the 44 is a waste. and I will save the money for the 60. I also have a 12 bolt with an ARB and 4.56 gears i need to get rid of to help fund this effort. If any one knows someone looking too keep it on 35" or less its a good way to go. I ran it for a long time with 35's and swapped it out when i went to the larger tires.

For the record I was not saying a d60 isn't better or that you shouldn't get one, it's what my vehicles have. You said it may not be in the budget. I simply meant you don't need to do that 1st as you've proven. Not being confident in your "homemade" rear flip would seem like more of an affordable priority. My hype comment was more towards the 1st response to your questions. I agree putting money in your 44 would be a waste and you've gotten some great advice here.

 

[jms]

I am feeling the love about learning to drive. ...

I'm sure it wasn't meant that way.

But there is something to be said about seat time, no doubt about that.

Stephen told me a long time ago that there comes a point in a truck build where it's better to stop spending money on parts, and start spending money on gas... i.e. drive the darn thing, as much as possible.

Re the build plan: I'd say "controlled flex" is where it's at.
I'm sure all those 52/56/63" spring builds are great, and articulate the axles in an awesome way.
Until the truck's nose is in the sky. And the front springs flex so much that you can't get any power to the ground, and you're essentially in 2WD. And all that rear end does is unload the front end even more.

Have you driven with a front locker?

 

[COChris]

I have never driven with a front locker, but i have a bunch of seat time in with the Blazer in this configuration. I have not done a drive train mod or suspension change, Except replacing the trans Due to a first gear failure, in probably Five years...When I put that front "Broomstick" driveshaft in. I have however Lightened the load by removing parts and halving the doors. then I added the cage.

My dream for the front end is a D60 with a selectable locker, ARB, OX .... whatever I can get my hands on. I Like how sharp it turns right now. I can turn around on my neighborhood street without hitting the sidewalks. I know I will loose a little of this with moving the front axle forward, but i think the extra length and better approach angle will be worth it.

I have to keep the build slow due to fundage, but I plan on doing it in stages so I can make adjustments. Zero Rates and FUSH kit first, then Ill debate about the longer springs. If I can find a D60 in my budget it will go in as well, but it will probably be welded spiders and one open hub until i can afford the locker.

For the most part i like the flex on my springs, but could use just a little more because i lift a tire a little more then I would like. But with a front locker I probably wouldn't even notice. or maybe even a little more in the back would help.

I have been doing some thinking about track bars to for the rear suspension. Any recommendations? I am thinking if I can plant the power out back a little more firmly it will help.

I'm sure it wasn't meant that way.

But there is something to be said about seat time, no doubt about that.

Stephen told me a long time ago that there comes a point in a truck build where it's better to stop spending money on parts, and start spending money on gas... i.e. drive the darn thing, as much as possible.

Re the build plan: I'd say "controlled flex" is where it's at.
I'm sure all those 52/56/63" spring builds are great, and articulate the axles in an awesome way.
Until the truck's nose is in the sky. And the front springs flex so much that you can't get any power to the ground, and you're essentially in 2WD. And all that rear end does is unload the front end even more.

Have you driven with a front locker?

 

[ssyork]

I have been reading a handful on front/rear selectable lockers lately. It seems the general opinion is that if you can only afford one selectable locker, put it in the rear, with full hydro rigs anyways. If you keep the rear open and the front locked in, it will still turn just as tight as when the front was open. Because the back end is not pushing the front around and the front is pulling around the corner. I'm locked front and rear with Detroits, so I cannot say this is first hand knowledge. But I do know when I disengage the rear end with the 205 and am in front wheel drive only, I do turn sharper. Just a thought to lock the front and put the selectable in the rear if you are worried about turning and budget. I know a handful of guys will disagree about the turning with a locked front end, but my guess is that they aren't full hydro either.

 

[kgblazerfive]

My $.02

Change the rear shackle flip.

Move your winch, didn't help you much on the trail.

Put 52's in the front with good shocks, and spring mounting points.

Find a D60.(I was shocked to see a D44 with hydro and 39.5, even more shocked/ happy that it was your drive shaft not a front end part that went kabloom)

Drive it.

 

[miniwally]

I have been reading a handful on front/rear selectable lockers lately. It seems the general opinion is that if you can only afford one selectable locker, put it in the rear, with full hydro rigs anyways. If you keep the rear open and the front locked in, it will still turn just as tight as when the front was open. Because the back end is not pushing the front around and the front is pulling around the corner. I'm locked front and rear with Detroits, so I cannot say this is first hand knowledge. But I do know when I disengage the rear end with the 205 and am in front wheel drive only, I do turn sharper. Just a thought to lock the front and put the selectable in the rear if you are worried about turning and budget. I know a handful of guys will disagree about the turning with a locked front end, but my guess is that they aren't full hydro either.

We now have ARB's front and rear in about averything. When things get tight we end up with the front locked and rear unlocked most of the time. Grab a handful of cutting brake and let it eat, it'll come around.

We have noticed that this creates a lot of heat in the steering system but we are also in the racing game so that is a bit different. ONe thing that isn't different is that a lock front and unlocked rear actually helps turn tighter on average.

 

[COChris]

From both of you this is the first that I have seen/heard of leaving the back open and the front locked, but it dose make sense. Problem is I already have a Detroit in the back and it doesn't make sense changing it to an ARB and then welding the front. I might as well put the money in the front end and then when more dough rolls around swap out the rear locker.

As for cutting breaks, I would love to have a set! but how would they work if I left the Detroit in the back? I know I would have to twin stick the 205 first as well.

I do plan on redoing my schakel flip in the rear. its not as beat up as the front but i figure if i keep the price down up front then i can afford to do the rear. I may switch to 52's down the road or even 56's but i think i am going to start with the zero rates and front shackles. then rear flip kit rehash. and If i can through in a D60 or fuel injection I will.

As for the D44 and full Hydro, well i had to make a decision as to what to do with the steering after cracking my frame. I figured ultimately i wanted full hydro, so instead of spending money with crossover steering and a new drilled steering box i jumped right to full Hydro. Yes i welded and reinforced the frame first. But I do carry a full set of axle shafts with U joints already installed for the front end. I guess the wheeling gods decided i needed to break something i dident carry a spare for!

We now have ARB's front and rear in about averything. When things get tight we end up with the front locked and rear unlocked most of the time. Grab a handful of cutting brake and let it eat, it'll come around.

We have noticed that this creates a lot of heat in the steering system but we are also in the racing game so that is a bit different. ONe thing that isn't different is that a lock front and unlocked rear actually helps turn tighter on average.

 

[miniwally]

If you have a detroit in the rear already just go with it, I ran one for years and wouldn't hesitate to run one again.

The way the cutting brake works with the rear detroit is that a tire can go slower than the ring gear in a detroit as long as there is no power coming in from the driveshaft. So you disengage the rear with the 205 twin stick then the detroit will unlock and the inside tire can hold still.

I also used to have a doubler in my DD F250 and used front wheel drive a bunch to turn sharper by just setting the e-brake and letting the 460 run. Never broke it but I was scared a time or two, the old floppy 50 front wasn't the strongest.

 

[454Sub]

Thats how I turn my truck around, neutral the rear output on my 205, and use plenty of skinny pedal. Because honestly, it sucks getting out and sloshing around in the mud to unlock my hubs, and as a side bonus, laying a Honda Civic type posi burnout on 40in boggers is nifty.

 

[COChris]

I will keep rocking the Detroit. I need to do the twin stick sooner rather then later and a Doubler is on my list, but it is down the road a little ways. I want to get the front end dialed in first. Either that or maybe the new Magnum box. It looks like a sweet setup, and If I want to do a doubler im going to heve to mess with my SM465 anyways.