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Rich at idle Black smoke, with spark knock tbi

If the exhaust leak is on the same side as the O2 sensor, definitely fix that as well.

You are right, $1200 in parts sucks, but $3500 for a vehicle you can/will drive isn't bad. I think I paid near that for a K5I intend to "modify" to my own use, so I don't think you did bad if it's a decent looking rig that will serve you well.
 
Ok update,
So everything is smoothed out for the most part, still a work in progress. Right now at about 1/8 throttle she's falls on her face but as long as ur past that she's fine, now I reported before that the fuel psi was 13.5 but it's 14.5, so I gotta get a adjustable regulator.
Now my next question, the cruise control module, can the fail internally to allow the vacuum to always flow to the brake switch, or is vacuum always ported to the switch?

Thank you gentleman for the warm welcome. :D
 
Not sure about the cruise control question?

You may be done with mechanical issues? But a stock chip is not going to be much help now. The intake you have alone, without added fuel pressure, requires fuel/VE tuning along with a bigger pump shot, known as AE (Acceleration Enrichment) in EFI. Your dead spot sounds like an AE issue.

Then there's the EGR disconnected... the ECM does not know this and assumes it is on! So fueling is reduced to compensate for the EGR replacement of volume in VE fueling and also spark is increased.

It's a good time to get a cable to data log with TunerPro RT and see what is really going on. This is a tool you can really not be without with EFI. Yes a scantool will do most everything needed for a stock vehicle, but once you start making changes? TunerPro RT has what is needed for history data logs to know what needs adjusting and where. It also has ability to make changes to the chip/bin file so you can burn a new chip with more needed equipment... chip burner.
 
Tuner rt is definitely my next purchase with next pay check, but I will also need a chip burner to make any changes?

And do I have to have different chips or can the same one one be erased and reburned?
 
Yes you need a burner and 2732a chips to replace the stock chip. These old chips also require a UV eraser. If done wrong or after to many times the chip is fryed. I use a willem GQ-4x burner for this. But I have all new chips when I start that are more robust 2732a ST chip for erasing then the stock AMD chips that come from GM.

The newer solution is 27fs512 EEPROM which can be erased via a burner with a click of the mouse. This requires a G2 adapter soldered into the ECM and new 27fs512 chip, then any burner will work.

Here's a link to Moates which has the G2 adapter as well as chips, burner and everything needed.
https://www.moates.net/g2-memory-adapter-060-leg-spacing-p-36.html
 
I haven't messed with cruise in a long time. I don't recall how all the vacuum is routed.

If you suspect it's an issue, follow the vac line from intake to the first connection, disconnect and plug. Not sure what you think is going on, but that would be what I would do to just eliminate every potential issue with cruise. Easily reversible and free to test.

I fully intend to convert to the later electric cruise setup, even though for the most part there is nothing wrong with the vac setups.
 
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