Rivets vs. bolts

[DEMON44]

If you use split washers and regular nuts, like everybody seems to. I stand by my opinion.

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[thatK30guy]

We're looking at the ARP bolts and nuts which are like the flange types. No washers or lockable types of washers either.

I also found some flange nuts and bolts of a grade higher than #8 but they're getting a little costly there. These are also a 12 point head.

 

[Fred_M1010]

but the secret with rivets is that they put them hot, and then they shrink for extreme clamping force.
You can do that with bolts, but check first what heat will do to the bolts metalurgy first.

There's no need to do that with bolts since unlike rivets you can torque them down to give the desired clamping force.

And I'm pretty sure rivets aren't stronger than grade 5 bolts.
So a grade 8 bolt tightened to it's max torque gives more clamping force.
And a properly tightened bolt especially with a good lock washer or lock nut doesn't vibrate lose easily.

So I have no problem substituting rivets with bolts.
But I do agree about not wanting paint between the surfaces.

 

[63chevyll]

my opinion....


I think the whole "it'll vibrate loose" crowd is waaay overthinking/worrying about this...

how many parts do you bolt to a frame, or anywhere on a vehicle for that matter, that aren't subjected to the same thing? 92% of this forum will bolt a shackle flip to a frame, and I'm pretty certain ideal hardware isn't used 1/2 the time, and how many times do we here about them getting loose?

if the PROPER hardware is installed correctly, I see absolutely no issue whatsoever.. pinched locknuts being the key...

I agree with this statement,

When is the last time someone checked their Bolt on trailer hitch, or chevy engine plate bolts.


Those always had a bolt-washer-steel-steel-washer-pinch nut

 

[imiceman44]

I agree with this statement,

When is the last time someone checked their Bolt on trailer hitch, or chevy engine plate bolts.


Those always had a bolt-washer-steel-steel-washer-pinch nut

That is why I am stating this now.
In the six years that I wheeled my K5 with a big diesel engine, I dropped crossmembers, engine ounts fell lose, and my steering box fell off because the bolts losened up.
From MY experience I say, you want to use bolts, you should chek them occasionnaly, and not assume they will be good forever.
And it's true I never used pinched nuts but lock washers, and I can say lock washers bring the suck.
Having taken off some pinched nuts on some projects, its the only way I will do bolts on anything from now on.

 

[ryoken]

and just a reminder to all, technically, the pinched locknuts are a one time use item... not meant to be taken off and on repeatedly....

 

[imiceman44]

and just a reminder to all, technically, the pinched locknuts are a one time use item... not meant to be taken off and on repeatedly....

Yeah like the TTY bolts.
Also like the Spring U bolts.

 

[smalltruckbigcid]

Or you could use huckbolts like semi's do. Won't be cheap
You can get what ever size you want and get them in full polish. The gun is spendy (ebay) and the bolts are never cheap. But they are stronger in clamping force and shear strength in a size by size comparision. We don't use them at work due to cost but I can tell they work good. Just a major pain to deal with because taking them apart is a torch job. Heres a link for a place to buy them. You want an LBRS-1604 or -1608 in size. That gets you 1/2 diameter stuff for doing frames in a high vibration or high stress environment

http://www.topfasteners.com.au/products-lockbolt-lb_high_strenght_lockbolt_pins/100.php