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Rock Sliders

eagle mark

eagle mark

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I've read a lot of posts on rock sliders and seems split for frame mount or body. I am going with frame because I want an additional rail in between and parallel with frame and rock slider under the rocker. Question is how many posts from slider to frame? I've seen two on a scout with plate on the frame. I've seen three and four on Toyota's all with plates and one Toyota had three posts to frame, no plate, with supports.

So what's best on a 1990 K5? I'm planning on 2 inch tube, three posts to frame with 1/4 plates about 3x3 or 4x4 is what I'm planning. Anything to look out for?
 
That's tons of leverage on the frame which would probably crack or break the frame if you load it enough times.

I know lots of people do it, I think mounting to the body is the right way to go.
 
These frames already flex a ton, and putting additional flex into them seems like it would be a bad idea. My plan is to do body mount, because it is much easier to replace the cab supports than it is to replace a frame.
 
I had bolt on rock sliders going to the body, to the most structural part of the body, and it is strong enuff to use as jack points. I wouldnt go to the frame IMO. like others said.
 
I agree with all these fellas i've got both. On my 90 I have the body mount sliders and love em! On my 77 i've got a set of sliders/steps welded to the frame and they flex like crazy just under my own body weight. I plan on making tabs to tie them to the pinch weld on the body. But even then I still think I'd go with just the body mount sliders over the frame any day.
 
Wheres a link for these body mount, mounted sliders. I'm glad I found this thread cause I was just going to make toyota style ones that go straight to the frame...
 
I cut out the rockers and put 4"x2" tube up in there. They are plenty strong and I have used them a lot as I have a full body. I to felt that there is just to much flex difference between the body and the frame in that spot. If I was goint to go from the frame I would leave at least an inch in between the body and the slider so they dont hit. In my case I was looking for as much clearance as I could get with out boatsiding.
 
My plan is to do body mount, because it is much easier to replace the cab supports than it is to replace a frame.
Click to expand...

i have to agree. bent body is ugly. bent frame is a big problem.
 
here's my sliders mounted to the body.

I've been waiting for some sucker to ask a question like this. Also figured since their called boat sliders - why not jon boats

DSCF2588.JPG

DSCF2589.JPG
 
I want sliders that stick beyond the body so that they will rub before my doors if I ever lay against a tree though. I dont get how toyota guys get away with having sliders mounted to the frame but we cant?
 
Stomis, check out my webshots in the "Modifications" album. There are pics of the sliders I made for my old suburban that were body mounted.
 
Stomis said:
I want sliders that stick beyond the body so that they will rub before my doors if I ever lay against a tree though. I dont get how toyota guys get away with having sliders mounted to the frame but we cant?
Click to expand...
not knowing for sure...but id imagine it has a lot to do with our skinny frame width plus it being super thin and flexy...if it were closer to the outside of the body, it wouldn't allow so much leverage...if it were built more structurally sound, it wouldn't flex...and if it weren't built out of such crappy steel, it wouldn't rip like it does if you look at it wrong.
 
Stomis said:
Wheres a link for these body mount, mounted sliders. I'm glad I found this thread cause I was just going to make toyota style ones that go straight to the frame...
Click to expand...
Stomis - DPI one of our vendors carries them. They are $99 for just the slider, and then you can add the side protection that pushes them out and adds a step setup. They are body mounted. I think that Blazen has them as well, and I know in talking to Kurt at DIY he is going to be trying to get some as well.
 
Stomis said:
I want sliders that stick beyond the body so that they will rub before my doors if I ever lay against a tree though. I dont get how toyota guys get away with having sliders mounted to the frame but we cant?
Click to expand...

Yota's are fully boxed and don't have nearly the frame flex we do...

I wonder if with a full cage tied to the frame, frame mounted sliders would work okay?
 
K5's have wide bodies and narrow frames.

Even if you boxed the frame it would still be an issue. The frame and the tube mounting the slider would flex significantly when weight is on it and the slider would probably get pushed right up into the rocker anyway. Frame mounted sliders would need to use what, 18"-24" of tube (lever arm) to extend out to protect the rocker and door.

That's not even accounting for how much the frame flexes and can cause the rocker to hit the body when the truck flexes.



The body mounts are not as strong as the frame but body mounted sliders only have ~6" lever arm acting on them which makes them much stronger.




If you want to keep your rockers, buy one of the bolt on body mounted sliders from a vendor on here.

If your rockers are rusted out, cut them out and replace them with rectangular tubing (there are several write ups on how to do it).
 
I did a scout off the frame awhile back, they are boxed frame but very thin and poor weld. When standing on it, nothing, would not move. But when you rested the weight of the scout on it, it would flex up and hit the body. It did this 100s of times with no issues or body damage.

Now the one's on my sons 85 toy, they also do not move when I stand on them and so far not enough flex to hit body.

My Blazer has no rust and has nice paint so I'm not going to cut it up for the rocker replacement slider.

So if the slider comes off the frame would it support it's own weight and it will be placed so when the vehicle weight is on it, it will rest on the body. I was going to give it a 1/4 inch clearence.

If the answer is still body would it be strong enough for the main slider, extensions or nerf bars and another slider inward? All of the body? Maybe off the frame sliders with a bushing support on body? To much flex in the K5 for this?
 
NV_K5 said:
I've been waiting for some sucker to ask a question like this. Also figured since their called boat sliders - why not jon boats
Click to expand...

So these bolt to the body? Hmmmm...

I'm still worried there should be a slider between frame and rocker. There's a big hole there. I do plan on sliding over rocks and stuff!
 
Found a picture in the photo gallerey of a slider to frame and looks to rest on body when weight is applied.

13409ck53.jpg


13409ck52.jpg
 
The idea of the slider is to protect the underside of the rockers, and they should hit before you get anything between them and the frame. The problem is that with the narrow frames on the K5, there is a lot of flex even when fully boxed. You can come off the frame, but you should realize the amount of damage that can be done to both the body and the frame by doing it this way. The pictures you have above, are on a vehicle that is in a different class from the condition of the vehicle you describe as having.

Body mount sliders do cover some of the area between the rocker and frame, but those pictures you need to remember that the brace running to the frame is a snag hazard. It could actually cause you more trouble if you get it hung up on a rock, including tearing the frame or doing more damage to the body. It is entirely up to you how you do it, but the consensus on the board is that there could be a lot more damage to the frame if you run the sliders to the frame.
 
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