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Rokie questions

M

mrcold

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Jun 6, 2004
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Location
North of SWEDEN
Hi!

I bought my first car a couple of weeks ago. It’s a 4wd chevy Blazer -86. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The plan is to buy 4 in. lift blocks, 3 in. body lift kit and maybe do a shackle flip. I already have a 4 in. suspension lift.

My questions are the following:
What will I have to do to the driveline, change axels (It’s the original, I think its 10 bolts), do I have to upgrade the transfer case and my TH700R4 gearbox, was thinking of getting a B&M TransKit from http://store.summitracing.com/, Is it any good? Will the angel be to high for the original driveshafts, can I use them? I will only use it on roads and probably never go off road with it.

How big tiers do u think I will be able to fit whit the lift I was thinking and how big can I go whit minor fender trimming? I was hoping on 39 in but I have no clue how big I will be able to fit. Can you suggest any good and cheep tiers and rims? What gear ratio do u think would be good?

I would appreciate if you suggested some from summitracing or an internet store that ships to Sweden where I live! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Thanks! Johan
 
Can't answer the question about lift and trimming. I can say that stock axles probably wont take more than 35's if you wheel it hard, I actually like 12 bolt rears , but even I wouldn't 39's on half ton stuff (although street like yo say you'll run may work , unless you get on it). Also , if geared right( like 4.88's ) , as well as properly rebuilt with a cooler installed, a 700r4 will be fine. Tires and rims I cant say as I dont run that big /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Thanks for the answers! Was kind of thinking about 35’s my self… 39’s are so expensive! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I will get a cooler!

4.88 is that a good gear ratio for 39’s or 35’s? Dose it make any different? Do you recommend 12b both front and rear? Are they easy to get hold of used and how much are they?
 
If you don't go to something like the 4.88 gears, your acceleration will be terrible. If you are going to do primarily street driving you won't like gears that are too high (numerically smaller).

Unless you really like the looks of mud tires, stick with a good all terrain tire for street driving. Something like BFGoodrich's.

If you get a full membership here, you could probably pick up the Dana44 (D44) front and 12bolt rear axles here on the for sale forum. Course shipping might be a problem. Not sure of any driveline companies that ship overseas.
 
So 4.88 will work on both 35’s and 39’s?
The shipping is a problem, but if I just could get some help in what axels I should use I can try to find them here in Sweden.

I was thinking Explorer Pro Comp All Terrain Tires (35’s) from summitracings homepage. There is a firm here in Sweden that imports and deals with them. But what about driveshafts, can a use the original ones?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi!

I bought my first car a couple of weeks ago. It’s a 4wd chevy Blazer -86. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The plan is to buy 4 in. lift blocks, 3 in. body lift kit and maybe do a shackle flip. I already have a 4 in. suspension lift.

A piece of advice. Stay away from lift blocks. They are dangerous and illegal in the states to run in the front. And blocks in the back introduce axle wrap and wheel hop. Thw shackle flip in the back would go well with 4" front springs.

My questions are the following:
What will I have to do to the driveline, change axels (It’s the original, I think its 10 bolts), do I have to upgrade the transfer case and my TH700R4 gearbox, was thinking of getting a B&M TransKit from http://store.summitracing.com/, Is it any good? Will the angel be to high for the original driveshafts, can I use them? I will only use it on roads and probably never go off road with it.

If this is a mall cruiser you should be fine with stock axles but nothing less than a 4.10 ratio. The 700r4 has a good low gear. With only 4" of suspension lift your drive shafts should be fine. Make sure your pinion angles are good or you will get vibration.

How big tiers do u think I will be able to fit whit the lift I was thinking and how big can I go whit minor fender trimming? I was hoping on 39 in but I have no clue how big I will be able to fit. Can you suggest any good and cheep tiers and rims? What gear ratio do u think would be good?

With 3" of suspension lift and a little trimming a member here (wayne) fit 37s and he wheels it pretty good. With 7" total lift 39s shouldn't be much of a problem. With tires that big though it will be hard to handle on the highway and you will probably get atrocious bump steer. This will also be magnified by an agressive mud tread. An all terrain tire would be a better choice for handling.

I would appreciate if you suggested some from summitracing or an internet store that ships to Sweden where I live! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Thanks! Johan

[/ QUOTE ]
 
Honestly, you might want to start with 4" lift (Springs up front, and a ORD 4" shackle flip for the rear). Being this is your first vehicle, you may want to start off with some 33's. Do you know what gears your stock axles have in them ??? What do you want to do with your truck ??? Basic transpertation ?? Off Roading ?? If so, what kind of off roading ??? Mud, rocks, sand ?? Knowing that we can better recomend some tires.
 
No off roading, I will use it as an every day car! But I want it to be BIG!!! I think I will go with 35 allterrain tyres. How high suspension lift can I get before the drive shaft angel will be too big?

I don’t have a clue what gear I have…. Must be stock whatever that is.
 
35's and street only , then you can run your axles and 4 inch lift. Later when the bug bites you real hard ( and it will if you hang out here ) you will be almost there. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

BTW most stock 80's Blazer would of been 3.08 or 3.42 gears. I still have 3.08's in mine and it works for now with 33's , but I need lower ones too /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
I run 35's with a 3" body lift. Get some scrub with a hard impact on a turn though. All 3 blazers I have had came with 3:73 gears from th factory although mine were '88, '76, & '91. The 76 was a towing optioned rig. Good luck finding the parts you need over there. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
If you're going 35's, you may want too look for some axles from a K20. I have no idea how hard they will be to find over there, but a set of K20 axles will already have the gears you'll need for those 35's. I find it alot cheaper to swap axles then to swap gears. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
 
What axels do the k20 have stock? 10b or even 12b and what gear ratio are we talking about?

I would love it in the states… cheap parts for the truck en cheap gasoline. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif Ours are about 1.3 dollars / liter! That sucks… dammed taxes!
/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
3/4 ton version (8 lug) Dana 44 ot 10 bolt front, and a 14 bolt FF rear. Most comman gears in them are 3.73's and 4.10's.
 
K20 is d44 or 10 bolt front, 8 lug 14 bolt rear in two types full floating or semi floating. Strong enough for wheeling , overkill on street, but comparable price to gear changes stateside. Overseas I could not even fathom prices and availibility of used parts /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you're going 35's, you may want too look for some axles from a K20. I have no idea how hard they will be to find over there, but a set of K20 axles will already have the gears you'll need for those 35's. I find it alot cheaper to swap axles then to swap gears. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Best post out of you yet, good job, Z3PR. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

3/4 tons are the hot ticket for a budget minded wheeler. I'm glad that I did my 3/4 ton swap relatively quickly.

10 bolts and 12 bolts will generally have 3.08 or 2.73 gears with 3.42 and 3.73 available but somewhat rare to find. Suburbans and K5s tend to have better gears than pickups, but it's all a crapshoot when you look at 1/2 ton stuff, typically the gears will suck every time.

3/4 ton stuff nearly always has 3.73s or better. I've seen them with 3.42s but they're rare. 4.10s are probably even more common than 3.73s. In fact nearly every set of 3/4 tons I've ever seen had 4.10s incluiding the ones I used to run under my truck.
 
Oki, thanks! I will check here in Sweden, we actually have the biggest only usa car demontation this side of the Atlantic here in Sweden.

If I would go for 8 in. suspension lift, what would that result in extra stuff to fix? Drive shafts?
 
I do believe 8 inches would need new/modified driveshafts. Whatever direction you go , have fun over there /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
An 8" suspension will probably ride like crap anyway. A 6" rides quite a bit rougher than a 4". An 8" and you're getting into territory of springs that are much stiffer.
 
Well I want it big, that’s one of the main ting with this Project… since I have the 4 in. suspension lift already I was thinking about getting a shackle flip in the back and make some longer shackle in the front. Harder and longer springs is needed (How long and how stiff?) I guess and what can be done about the drive shafts, can they be modified in any cheap way?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Well I want it big, that’s one of the main ting with this Project… since I have the 4 in. suspension lift already I was thinking about getting a shackle flip in the back and make some longer shackle in the front. Harder and longer springs is needed (How long and how stiff?) I guess and what can be done about the drive shafts, can they be modified in any cheap way?

[/ QUOTE ] Do you have any driveshaft shops near you ??? When I put in my lift I had new driveshafts made.
 
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