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Roll bars and shade questions

HawK5

HawK5

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Snohomish WA
Hey Guys,
I have a 3 day off road excursion planned in a week and a half. It’s supposed to be between 80-90 degrees. I’ll have myself and 3 other passengers including my son. I can’t afford a soft top right now for $1200, so in the name of safety and shade, I’ve got a roll bar for the front, but want to provide roll protection for the rear, does anyone know if there’s a certain vehicles roll bar that could be installed backward in the back of the K5 creating a rear hoop? I would then stretch canvas or something between the two of them to provide shade for back seaters.
Originally I had planned to leave the hard top on and roll the window down but the problem is exhaust fumes get drafted back into the cab, and if I roll down the front windows it gets worse. So I pretty much have to leave the back window up if the top is on and then we sizzle like bacon inside.
Ideally the back roll bars would fit under the top like the front so I can leave it in year around.
Thanks in advance!
 
Later 70’s and 80’s Blazers could have come with a rear roll bar, it’s an option so they’re a little rare. This would be the simplest option for you because (with some drilling) it’s a bolt in.

I’ve been looking at one of these Jeep bikini tops, it’s too long for a Blazer so it could be trimmed to the length you want.

IMG_7270.png
 
While this isn't a direct answer for your question, I would pull the side windows out of the top and test that. The summer heat makes the rubber gaskets pliable, which helps to pull them. Hot glass seems to flex better, too. I have tinted sliders and A/C, so I haven't tested this for fume saturation into the cab.

My 2nd quick and dirty strategy would be using electrical conduit and a bender to make 2 hoops that mimic a rear mounted roll bar. But this would require some U style brackets to support and fasten the ends to the top of the bed rail.
 
Oh I didn’t realize they offered a rear roll bar from the factory, rare but good to know, none available locally and I doubt you could ship something like that.
My buddy with a Jeep said he has some sunshade material I can use. But they have snaps so I’d have to drill a bunch of hole in the roll bars.. we talked about fashioning up some pvc hoops, but I was hoping for something that would offer a little more roll over protection. I’d even entertain the idea of a peice of plywood between the two role bars.. As for pulling out the windows, I read up on that and it sounds like a pain in the ass. The slider windows seem like a nice option, but I’ve also read they leak like a sieve.. Hoping to keep my hardtop in tact. And be able to remove in the summer and have some waterproof canvas or plywood to put onto the roll bar.
I was always wondering if a boat Bimini top could be attached to the rails
 
You could try sourcing another hard top. Sometimes people give them away (after trying to sell them unsuccessfully). Ive seen some things where the entire sides are removed and handful of factory bolts hold it in place. That seems like best option and tops so be pretty easy to source. Swap that top on, it will be very light without glass and any additional amount of fiberglass you elect to cut away. Then for winter time swap you untouched top on.

Someone on here has done that, forget who though.
 
Tried a quick search and couldnt find it, but this is on a 1st gen. Same idea. Cut the front of the window off on the sides, and top just attaches on the top portion of cab

IMG_6251.jpeg
 
I have seen a member here on a square body who runs a top with side windows removed in the summer and one with windows in the winter.

I used a tarp and zip tied it to my cage, worked as a Bimini top.

I also had an upholstery shop do a full top and a Bimini. I have run them for 16 years, they are toast now and need some new ones made. Couple pics for ideas. More in my media on here of the full top

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Note to self: Looking at the angle of the factory rear rollbar, not sure the soft topper would be able to retract to the folded down position, but perfectly fine if never planned to do that and just kept it in safari mode.
 
What would you guys think of building a redneck canopy/topper out of lumber? I could bolt it to the factory top holes, basically frame up a front hoop and matching rear, then run some 2x4s down the bed rails and bolt to the factory holes, make matching for the top runners. Screw down a piece of plywood on the top for shade. Imaybe put in some x bars on the top.. I’d angle the vertical inward to keep it close to the factory body line. I know.. it’s chincy, I searched here and couldn’t find any posts.. I’m just Trying to figure a cheap way to get shade, leaving for the excursion in a week doesn’t give me enough time to source parts..
 
HawK5 said:
What would you guys think of building a redneck canopy/topper out of lumber? I could bolt it to the factory top holes, basically frame up a front hoop and matching rear, then run some 2x4s down the bed rails and bolt to the factory holes, make matching for the top runners. Screw down a piece of plywood on the top for shade. Imaybe put in some x bars on the top.. I’d angle the vertical inward to keep it close to the factory body line. I know.. it’s chincy, I searched here and couldn’t find any posts.. I’m just Trying to figure a cheap way to get shade, leaving for the excursion in a week doesn’t give me enough time to source parts..
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That would definitely be redneck. For time and money building that you could find a hardtop cheaper and just cut the windows out and leave the very back window frame to attach to the bedrails and still have the shade needed and some type of structure to support a tarp to throw on at night or if it rains.
 
I don't think the lumber idea would add any actual protection and could be dangerous if stuff starts coming apart. If what you're looking for is real rollover protection, you need to look into that seriously. It's not as simple as putting a couple of tubes overhead. A false feeling of security is worse than having nothing at all, because it might make you braver.

You could emulate a partial soft top by bolting angle-aluminum on top of the bedrails and bend hoops to match the hardtop profile out of conduit. If you look up pictures of how Can-back and softoppers are built, you'll see what I'm talking about. The hardest parts of making your own soft top are sealing around the back of the cab and attaching to the tailgate. For what you're talking about, those issues go away.

A supplemental idea is to find eye-bolts with the thread size of the topper bolts. You can put them in unused holes or use them instead of bolts, which gives you places to hook bungies on and keep your top tensioned.
 
There’s no tops near me for less then $350, there’s one 3 hours away with the windows out for $200, but working 60 hours a week, going to school full time, and having two young boys doesn’t leave enough time for a 6 hour road trip.
Yeah I have no illusions of any roll over protection whatsoever with this idea. it’s just a sturdy support for shade that can with stand 60mph on the freeway.
 
I know you said that the softopper isn't an option now. I have one and its well worth it. Don't spend a bunch of time and money building something that's not the permanent solution. Just rig up a quick tarp to keep the sun off if it gets real hot. You don't have enough time for much else anyway. Save the money for a softopper in the future. The safari top option is awesome and will keep the sun off with the sides rolled up even at highway speeds.

How is your exhaust routed? Out the side behind the rear tire is about the only way to run a blazer with the roof off or rear window down. Any exhaust out the rear will blow back into the cab and gas everyone out.
 
A good cowboy hat or big straw sun hat does wonders. We wear them rafting in the desert and it really makes a difference.
 
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