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Roll cage design recommendations with pictures

contact of the head with a cage is a concern, particularly in an accident on the highway...

Good point. Some of the cage regulations I've been reading say to keep the main B hoop within 6" of the drivers head, but not closer than 3" unless it's padded. It's probably not realistic to plan on wearing a helmet everywhere, but certainly plan for being able to wear one when needed.

My other concern was being able to get out after an accident, especially for back seat passengers. I'll have to really test the access part of it when I mock it up.
 
Do an "X" brace that mounts directly behind the passenger seat.....BUT instead of welding it in place, use two bushings at the two upper corners where it mounts. The floor mounts could be either some sort of strong pins or tube clamps that could be disconnected easily. When not in "Moab Mode", imagine swinging the entire X-brace up to the overhead bar area and locking it in place there instead.

Not a bad idea. I'll have to see where everything lines up to know how it might work. It seems feasible. The other idea was to make the X from two separate beams and attach them separately. That way they can be stored easier.
 
Just as a rule of thumb I kept head clearence to a minimum of Score rules. I think I'm actually better then that too. Really made it a point to keep that a facton in my cage. Hence the reason for the rear seat custom mount design I'm building. Driver/Passenger head clearence too to this spec or better aswell. So far so good.
 
Brian,

Here's a potentially cool idea:

Do an "X" brace that mounts directly behind the passenger seat.....BUT instead of welding it in place, use two bushings at the two upper corners where it mounts. The floor mounts could be either some sort of strong pins or tube clamps that could be disconnected easily. When not in "Moab Mode", imagine swinging the entire X-brace up to the overhead bar area and locking it in place there instead.

The effect would almost be like a solid garage door.....down is Moab Mode, and giving good triangulation of the B/C pillar area. Up is creating a less useful but unobtrusive X-brace across the overhead tubing in the rear of the truck. :thinking:

I'm not sure dimensionally how all that would work (too long? too short?) but it might be worth fooling around with a bit. I like the idea of not having to wrestle around with a large, heavy X-brace to remove it. My guess is that it would get old in a hurry....and it's going to be bulky and awkward to carry and store it.


:usaflag:


Will be doing something similar to this myself.
 
I figure there's a reason for all the rules so I might as well follow them if I can.

For fun, I also did some research on some Corbeau seats to replace my stock ones. The low backs look similar to the stock style, and I can add a headrest and slots for a harness are built in. It looks like I may have just gave up on my requirement to use the stock seating. Ugh.
 
#1 Rule Use good design!
#2 Rule Finish the Job!
#3 Rule Use quality materials.
#4 Rule Try not to test it out.

I could have, would have, should have finished my cage! My cage was 2" HREW .120 wall. Good material, not quite DOM but good none the less. This pic is just a flop to the top. Triangulation would have saved this easily on this flop. Tie it into the frame as well. The bed of my rig is bent down 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch now. The top is pushed over 1/2 to 1 inch.

PICT3327.JPG
 
#1 Rule Use good design!
#2 Rule Finish the Job!
#3 Rule Use quality materials.
#4 Rule Try not to test it out.

I could have, would have, should have finished my cage! My cage was 2" HREW .120 wall. Good material, not quite DOM but good none the less. This pic is just a flop to the top. Triangulation would have saved this easily on this flop. Tie it into the frame as well. The bed of my rig is bent down 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch now. The top is pushed over 1/2 to 1 inch.


Good advice, bummer about your cage :crazy:.
 
rdn2blazer;2403347 Sure it's insanly pricy compared to HREW but whatever.[/quote said:
Last time I checked (about three weeks ago) with my supplier HREW was more than DOM. I don't get it but it was .95 more a foot @4.75/ft for HREW. May have just been a fluke with my supplier.
 
#1 Rule Use good design!
#2 Rule Finish the Job!
#3 Rule Use quality materials.
#4 Rule Try not to test it out.

I could have, would have, should have finished my cage! My cage was 2" HREW .120 wall. Good material, not quite DOM but good none the less. This pic is just a flop to the top. Triangulation would have saved this easily on this flop. Tie it into the frame as well. The bed of my rig is bent down 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch now. The top is pushed over 1/2 to 1 inch.

your cage may not have been the best, but it probably saved your ass in that situation. it looks like it turned what would have been a full roll into a simple flop! glad you had it! :thumb: when i got my full convertible body, i knew i HAD to have a cage. nothing over the head but a windshield frame = certain death in a roll, which can be stopped as a flop with a cage... :D

Last time I checked (about three weeks ago) with my supplier HREW was more than DOM. I don't get it but it was .95 more a foot @4.75/ft for HREW. May have just been a fluke with my supplier.

DOM here is about $5 more per foot... but my supplier's nearest supplier is 5 hours away. :o they do, however, have a HUGE supply of scrap DOM tube for $0.60/lb. :D i gotta go stock up! :wink1:
 
cargo don't need savin'

Move the top of the C loop forward. There is no passengers behind the seat. Debatable if the C down bars should be near the bed or over the chassis, the bed outboard of the chassis is pretty flimsy..


cage7.JPG

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cage9.JPG

cage_6.jpg

cage7.JPG

cage8.JPG

cage9.JPG
 
This pic is just a flop to the top. Triangulation would have saved this easily on this flop.

Did it go onto its top or just on its side? I like some more pics of it if you have some. It would be interesting to see more of it.


Move the top of the C loop forward.
That's a good thought, but I like the ability to make a soft-top that attaches to the cage and cover the cargo area. The computer image has the rear seat a bit too far forward. In reality, the rear passengers heads are about 12" in front of C pillar overhead bar at the moment.
 
So here's a couple of ideas on additional green colored "moab mode" bracing. I like the first option better since it allows eaiser access to space in the back. Is the second option going to be significantly better?

I suppose I could also just add permanent bracing in the C Pillar like Chris suggested. Picture #3 is a nice balance of rear visibility and strength. That gusset is about 8" down from the top of the vertical portion of the C pillar.

cage_6.jpg



This design is good and is pretty sound structurally. As long as you're using the stock seatbelts I would go with something like this.
 

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